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On a dishwasher that has never drained properly, E24 is usually a disposal knockout plug nobody removed. On one that drained fine for years it never is. When the code first appeared decides which half of this list applies — and E25 is a different code again.

Bosch/Gaggenau dishwasher F1 means the flood switch tripped on water in the base pan. Where the leak hides on panel-ready units, and repair cost.

Bosch oven/range E1 points to a control-board fault, often after a power surge. Why the oven goes dead, the one safe reset to try, and repair cost.

Bosch oven/range E2 is a safety-critical runaway-temperature code. Do not reset power — a welded relay is a fire risk. Why it trips and repair cost.

Bosch oven/range E3 means an open oven temperature sensor — a broken wire or a failed NTC probe. The cheapest oven code to fix; symptoms and cost.

Bosch oven/range E5 is a board-to-board communication fault — the display works but the oven ignores it. Ribbon-cable checks, the cheaper board, and cost.

Bosch oven/range E6 is a door-lock fault tied to self-clean — often a stripped worm gear in the motorized lock. Why the door jams, safety, and cost.

Bosch washer E02 is a drive-motor fault — winding, carbon brushes, or motor control. EcoSilence vs brushed motors, symptoms, and repair cost.

Bosch washer E04 (AquaStop) means a leak was detected — door boot, hose, or a tub bearing seal. Rusty-water warning signs and repair cost inside.

Both valves open, hoses straight, screens clean, and E13 still appears. Which programmes it shows up on, and whether any water reaches the tub at all, separate borderline house pressure from one blocked side or a failed valve.

Bosch washer E17 is a fill timeout — low pressure, a weak inlet valve, or an overlooked pressure-sensor hose. Symptoms, safe checks, and repair cost.

Bosch washer E27 is a door-lock fault — often the detect microswitch, not the mechanism. Why the lock clicks but the cycle stalls, and repair cost.

Bosch washer E43 is a door-lock motor fault — distinct from E27. How the motorized actuator and board relay fail, the emergency release, and cost.

i10 on a Electrolux dishwasher: a water supply error. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux dishwasher i20 is a drain error — usually a clogged triple-filter or blocked hose. Owner-fixable steps plus a $100–$250 professional range.

Electrolux dishwasher i30 is a leak/overflow trip — a base-pan float has risen on collected water. DIY checks and a $120–$350 professional range.

i50 on a Electrolux dishwasher: a drain motor error. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux dishwasher i60 is a heating error — the inline flow-through heater is not reaching setpoint. DIY signs and a $150–$400 professional range.

Electrolux dishwasher PF just means a power failure interrupted the cycle. Usually harmless — press Start to clear. DIY checks and an up-to-$90 range.

Electrolux refrigerator DF is a defrost circuit error — a failed heater or open bi-metal lets ice choke the coil. DIY signs and a $150–$400 repair range.

Electrolux refrigerator OP means a temperature sensor reads open-circuit, so the compressor never runs. Causes, DIY checks, and an $80–$200 repair range.

SH on a Electrolux refrigerator: freezer sensor shorted. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux refrigerator SY CF is a board-to-board communication failure, usually a cracked hinge harness. What it means plus a $200–$500 repair range.

SY EF on a Electrolux refrigerator: evaporator fan circuit failure. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux washer dL means the door is unable to lock — the bolt never confirmed, so the cycle cannot start. Causes, DIY checks, and a $100–$280 range.

Electrolux washer E10 is a water-fill problem — usually a closed tap or kinked hose. Easy DIY checks first, with a $50–$180 professional range if needed.

E11 on a Electrolux washer: water fill timeout. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

E13 on a Electrolux washer: water leak in the tub. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

E20 on a Electrolux washer: a drain problem. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux washer E21 is a slow-drain fault — usually a partly clogged filter or lint-fouled pump. DIY steps plus an $80–$220 professional range.
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