Kenmore Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Replacement

The valve is an electrically opened gate: the control board sends voltage to the solenoid to open it at the start of each fill and drops that voltage to close it once the water-level switch says the tub is full.

Decode the model first#

• 665 — Whirlpool: single-solenoid valve, bottom-left behind the kickplate.
• 722 — LG (Kenmore Elite): often a dual-solenoid valve that meters different fill phases, same general spot.
• 587 — Frigidaire: single-solenoid, similar position.

What a failing valve looks like#

• No fill at all — the solenoid has failed, or mineral scale has stuck the plunger closed. You'll hear the pump running dry, then an error (a flashing Clean light on 665 units, an IE or FE code on 722).
• Continuous fill or overfill — the plunger is stuck open, so water keeps coming even after the cycle should stop; that's a flood risk.
• Slow fill — the inlet screen is partly clogged or the solenoid is weak, so the tub fills at a trickle and dishes wash poorly.

Before condemning the valve, confirm the household shutoff under the sink is fully open, the supply line isn't kinked, the inlet screen (the mesh filter inside the valve inlet) isn't clogged with sediment — the most common non-valve cause of slow fill — and that water pressure is adequate (most dishwashers need at least 20 PSI).

Replacing the valve#

1. Cut power at the breaker and shut the water supply under the sink.
2. Remove the lower kickplate (2 Phillips screws) and lay towels and a shallow pan below.
3. Disconnect the supply line from the valve inlet with pliers — water will drain.
4. Release the fill hose from the valve outlet (hose clamp).
5. Unplug the solenoid connector (a single 2-wire plug on Whirlpool, a larger one on LG).
6. Remove the mounting-bracket screws (1–2), pull the old valve, and check its inlet screen.
7. Fit the new valve, reconnect the fill hose with a fresh clamp, then the supply line — hand-tight, then just snug (don't overtighten brass) — and the connector.
8. Open the water and check both connections for leaks before restoring power, then run a fill cycle; the tub should reach level in 2–3 minutes.

Tools: adjustable pliers or a wrench, Phillips #2, a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pan, and towels — about 30–45 minutes.

Parts and cost#

Screens, testing, and lifespan#

Clean the inlet screen first — it's a free fix that clears roughly 30% of slow-fill complaints. To test the valve electrically, cut power, unplug the wires, and meter the solenoid coil: most dishwasher inlet-valve solenoids read 500–1,500 ohms, with an open circuit meaning a burned coil and near-zero a short. A valve that dribbles water into the tub while the dishwasher is off has a failed internal seal — shut the supply valve immediately, since that's the failure that floods a kitchen. Valves generally last 6–10 years, but hard water can drop that to 4–5 as scale builds on the screen and seat; cleaning the screen yearly is the best defense. If you're on a private well or old galvanized plumbing, a small inline sediment filter on the dishwasher supply line pays for itself by keeping grit out of the valve entirely.

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