Kenmore Dishwasher Error Codes: Complete List with Fixes

Kenmore dishwashers are one of the most confusing appliances to troubleshoot because Kenmore sources them from multiple manufacturers, each with its own error code system. A flashing clean light on your 665-series (Whirlpool-built) means something completely different from an "i30" on your 587-series (Frigidaire-built). This cross-manufacturer guide decodes every Kenmore dishwasher error code, no matter who built yours.

Identify Your Kenmore Dishwasher's Manufacturer

Find the model number on the sticker — usually on the door frame (visible when the door is open), on the left or right side of the tub opening. The first three digits reveal the manufacturer:

• 665.xxxxx — Built by Whirlpool (the most common Kenmore dishwashers by far)
• 587.xxxxx — Built by Frigidaire/Electrolux
• 630.xxxxx — Built by Bosch (rare, select premium models)

Important: Whirlpool-built Kenmore dishwashers (665-series) often do not display alphanumeric codes. Instead, they use blinking light patterns — 1 blink, 2 blinks, etc. — where the number of blinks corresponds to the fault. This guide covers both formats.

Whirlpool-Built Kenmore Dishwashers (665.xxxxx)

These are the dominant Kenmore dishwashers. Newer models with digital displays show F-codes. Older models with button panels use flashing clean-light sequences.

F1 / 1 Blink — Stuck Button / Membrane Error

The control board detects a button held for more than 30 seconds, or the touch panel membrane has failed.

Common causes:

• Button physically stuck from moisture or spilled detergent
• Touch panel membrane degraded (common after 5–8 years of use)
• Ribbon cable between panel and control board corroded

How to fix:

1. Check each button on the panel — press firmly and release. If any feels sticky or does not spring back, clean around it with a slightly damp cloth.
2. If no button is stuck, the touch panel membrane has likely degraded. Some models have a combined panel/board assembly; others have a separate overlay.
3. Disconnect the ribbon cable from the control board, clean contacts with electronics cleaner, and reconnect firmly.
4. If the overlay membrane is damaged, replacement costs $30–$80 depending on the model.

F2 / 2 Blinks — Leak Detected / Float Switch

Water has reached the base pan and triggered the anti-flood float switch.

Common causes:

• Door gasket leak allowing water to drip out during spray cycles
• Loose or cracked hose connections inside the tub
• Worn tub seal at the pump area
• Overfilling from a stuck inlet valve
• Using regular dish soap instead of automatic dishwasher detergent (causes massive suds overflow)

How to fix:

1. Open the door and look for water on the floor or around the door frame.
2. Turn off power and water supply. Pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tilt the unit forward slightly and check for water in the base pan.
3. Soak up any water with towels, then run a cycle while watching underneath for the leak source.
4. Check the door gasket — if torn or compressed flat, replace it. Gasket part WPW10300924 costs $20–$40.
5. Verify you are using automatic dishwasher detergent, not hand dish soap.

Part cost: Door gasket WPW10300924 is $20–$40. Float switch W10195039 is $15–$30.

F3 / 3 Blinks — Thermistor / Temperature Sensor Error

The water temperature sensor is reading abnormally — either shorted or showing an open circuit.

Common causes:

• Failed NTC thermistor (part WPW10467289)
• Disconnected sensor wire in the tub sump area
• Sensor corroded from hard water deposits

How to fix:

1. The thermistor is typically mounted in the tub sump area near the heating element.
2. Measure resistance — should read approximately 55K ohms at room temperature (77°F), dropping to roughly 20K ohms at 120°F.
3. If the reading is 0 or infinite, replace the sensor. Cost: $10–$25.
4. Also check the wire connector for corrosion — hard-water areas often see mineral buildup on sensor pins.

F6 / 6 Blinks — Water Inlet Error

The dishwasher is not filling with water or not filling fast enough.

Common causes:

• Water supply valve under the sink turned off or partially closed
• Kinked inlet hose
• Clogged inlet valve screen with mineral deposits
• Faulty water inlet valve (part WPW10195049)

How to fix:

1. Check the shut-off valve under the sink — turn it fully counterclockwise to open.
2. Inspect the inlet hose for kinks between the valve and the dishwasher.
3. Turn off water and disconnect the inlet hose at the valve. Check the mesh screen filter for mineral buildup — clean with vinegar and a toothbrush.
4. If the screen is clean and pressure is adequate, the inlet valve needs replacement. Part WPW10195049 costs $25–$50.

Part cost: Water inlet valve WPW10195049 is $25–$50. Professional repair: $120–$200.

F7 / 7 Blinks — Flow Meter Error

The flow meter (turbine sensor) is not detecting water flowing through the inlet valve.

Common causes:

• Failed flow meter (part WPW10348269)
• Mineral buildup inside the flow meter housing blocking the turbine
• Inlet valve not opening fully

How to fix:

1. The flow meter is connected to the inlet valve assembly inside the dishwasher.
2. Remove and inspect for mineral deposits blocking the turbine impeller.
3. Test the meter with a multimeter — it should produce a pulsed signal when water flows through.
4. If cleaning does not resolve the issue, replace the flow meter. Part WPW10348269 costs $20–$40.

F8 / 8 Blinks — Drain Error

The dishwasher cannot drain water from the tub after a cycle.

Common causes:

• Clogged food filter at the tub bottom (the number one cause)
• Blocked drain hose at the disposal or air gap connection
• Failed drain pump motor (part WPW10348269)
• Knockout plug still in garbage disposal (on new installations)

How to fix:

1. Remove the lower spray arm and the food filter assembly at the bottom of the tub. Clean thoroughly — food particles and grease accumulate here with every cycle.
2. Check the drain hose connection at the garbage disposal or sink drain. If you recently installed a new disposal, verify the knockout plug was removed from the disposal's dishwasher port.
3. Verify the drain hose has a high loop (or air gap) to prevent backflow from the sink.
4. If the filter and hose are clear, the drain pump may have failed. Listen carefully — no sound at all means the motor is dead; a humming sound with no water movement means a jammed impeller.

Part cost: Drain pump WPW10348269 is $30–$55. Professional repair: $120–$220.

F9 / 9 Blinks — Diverter Motor Error

The diverter motor that switches water between the upper and lower spray arms is not operating.

Common causes:

• Diverter motor failure (part WPW10195677)
• Food debris jamming the diverter disc
• Wiring fault between motor and control board

How to fix:

1. Remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly to access the diverter area at the tub bottom.
2. Check for food debris or hard particles jamming the diverter disc.
3. Test the diverter motor — should show 1,000–3,000 ohms resistance.
4. Replacement diverter motor WPW10195677 costs $30–$60.

Frigidaire/Electrolux-Built Kenmore Dishwashers (587.xxxxx)

These Kenmore dishwashers use the Electrolux error code system with "i" + number format.

i10 — Water Supply Error

The dishwasher is not receiving water or filling too slowly.

Common causes:

• Water supply valve turned off
• Inlet hose kinked or crushed
• Inlet valve screen clogged with mineral deposits (part 807131901)

How to fix:

1. Check the hot water supply valve under the sink — open fully.
2. Run hot water at the kitchen sink for 30 seconds before starting the dishwasher to prime the hot water line.
3. Remove the inlet hose and clean the mesh screen filter at both ends.
4. If the valve solenoid has failed, replacement 807131901 costs $35–$60.

i20 / i40 — Drain Error

Water is not draining from the tub. i40 is the same fault code after a secondary timeout attempt.

Common causes:

• Clogged triple-filter assembly at the tub bottom
• Blocked drain hose at disposal or air gap
• Drain pump failure (part 5304506681)

How to fix:

1. Remove and clean the triple-filter system at the tub bottom (fine filter, coarse filter, mesh screen).
2. Check drain hose at the disposal — ensure the knockout plug was removed on new installations.
3. Verify there is a high loop or air gap in the drain hose to prevent backflow.
4. If the pump hums but water does not drain, the impeller is jammed. If silent, the motor has failed.

Part cost: Drain pump 5304506681 is $40–$65.

i30 — Leak / Overflow

The float switch in the base pan detected water, indicating a leak inside the dishwasher.

Common causes:

• Door gasket failure (part 5304514065)
• Loose hose connections inside the tub
• Spray arm hitting a tall dish and redirecting water outside the tub

How to fix:

1. Turn off power and water. Carefully pull the dishwasher out from under the counter.
2. Check the base pan for standing water and soak it up.
3. Inspect the door gasket for tears, food debris, or compression loss along its length.
4. Run a short cycle while observing underneath for the source of the leak.
5. Gasket replacement 5304514065 costs $20–$45.

i50 — Drain Motor Error

The drain pump motor has failed electrically — distinct from i20 which indicates a physical blockage.

Common causes:

• Drain pump motor windings burned (part 5304506681)
• Wiring harness fault between board and pump
• Control board relay failure

How to fix:

1. Check the drain pump impeller for foreign objects (glass shards, bones).
2. Measure pump motor resistance — should read 5–40 ohms.
3. If the pump hums but does not turn, a foreign object is jamming the impeller. If completely silent, check for 120V at the pump connector — no voltage indicates a board-side fault.

i60 — Heating Error

The water is not reaching the target temperature for the selected wash cycle.

Common causes:

• Heating element failure (part 5304517972)
• NTC thermistor fault giving incorrect temperature readings
• Wiring issue between the control board and heating element

How to fix:

1. Test heating element resistance — should read 10–30 ohms.
2. Check the NTC thermistor — approximately 55K ohms at room temperature.
3. Run hot water at the kitchen faucet before starting — if inlet water temperature is below 120°F, the element must work much harder and may exceed its timeout.

Part cost: Heating element 5304517972 is $35–$60.

PF — Power Failure

The dishwasher experienced a power interruption during a cycle.

How to fix:

1. Press Start/Resume to continue the interrupted cycle.
2. If PF appears without a known power outage, check the circuit breaker and the junction box wiring connections under the dishwasher for loose wires.

Kenmore Dishwasher Diagnostic Mode

• Whirlpool-built (665): Press the following buttons in sequence within 5 seconds: Heated Dry, Normal Wash, Heated Dry, Normal Wash. All indicator lights should illuminate, confirming diagnostic mode entry. Press Start to advance through test phases.
• Frigidaire-built (587): Press and hold two buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. Common pairs are Hi Temp + Air Dry or Sanitize + Delay Start. The display will flash to confirm entry into diagnostic mode.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: My Kenmore dishwasher's clean light blinks 7 times. What does that mean? A: On a 665-series (Whirlpool-built) Kenmore, 7 blinks indicates a flow meter error — the dishwasher is not detecting water flowing through the inlet valve. Check the water supply valve, clean the inlet screen, and verify adequate water pressure.

Q: Why does my Kenmore dishwasher smell bad even after cleaning? A: The most common source is the food filter at the tub bottom — most owners do not realize it needs regular cleaning. Remove the lower spray arm, pull out the filter assembly, and clean it thoroughly with dish soap and a brush. Also run an empty cycle with 1 cup of white vinegar placed upright in a glass on the top rack.

Q: Can I use regular dish soap in my Kenmore dishwasher? A: No. Regular hand dish soap creates massive suds that overflow the tub, trigger the leak float switch (F2/i30 error), and can damage the pump seals. Use only automatic dishwasher detergent — pods, powder, or liquid specifically labeled for dishwashers.

Q: How do I reset my Kenmore dishwasher after an error? A: Turn off the circuit breaker for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. For 665-series models, you can also press and hold Start/Cancel for 3 seconds to drain and reset. The error code will clear once the underlying issue is resolved and a successful cycle completes.

Q: Why does my Kenmore dishwasher leave dishes dirty on the top rack? A: This usually indicates a diverter motor problem (F9 on 665-series) — the motor is not switching water to the upper spray arm. It can also be caused by a clogged upper spray arm (remove it and flush water through to clear blocked nozzles) or low water pressure that cannot reach the top rack effectively.

When to Call a Professional

• Persistent leak (F2/i30) — Internal leaks from the pump seal or tub require pulling the dishwasher out and accessing components underneath, which involves water line and electrical disconnection.
• Control board failure (F1 on 665-series, i50 on 587-series) — Board replacement involves electrical connections in a wet environment and is best handled by a trained technician.
• Heating element replacement — Requires accessing the tub sump area and working with high-voltage connections.
• Installation issues — If your dishwasher was recently installed and shows drain or fill errors, the plumbing connections may need professional inspection and correction.

Kenmore dishwasher giving you trouble? EasyBear technicians are trained on all Kenmore platforms — Whirlpool, Frigidaire, and Bosch. We identify your manufacturer before arriving so we bring the right parts the first time. Free diagnostic visit, 90-day repair warranty. Schedule your free diagnosis today.