This index covers the Whirlpool cooktop codes that each have a page of their own. Every line restates, in a sentence or two, what that page says about the code, and the code links to the full page with its causes, checks and the point at which to call a technician.
The codes fall into four groups: instructions and indicators, overheat shutdowns, codes published only with a power instruction, and codes that name a part, its wiring or the power supply.
Instructions and indicators#
| Code | What its page says |
|---|---|
| C82 | The pan is the wrong size for the zone. Move it to a smaller zone or use a larger pan; nothing is broken. |
| E_03 | An instruction, not a fault: an object, liquid or soil is pressing on the controls. Clear the control area and wipe the panel. |
| F0E1 | The cookware does not suit induction. Use pans made from ferromagnetic material: if a fridge magnet clings firmly to the base, the pan should work. |
| F4 | Centre the pot or pan on the cooking area and make sure nothing hot is resting on the touch controls. |
| F2 | A hot-surface indicator rather than a fault: it disappears once the cooking area has cooled. While it shows, treat the glass as hot. |
| F8 | A zone ran too long and was cut off. It can be used again once it has cooled; the time limit is not adjustable. |
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Overheat codes#
Each of these asks for the same first step: switch off and let the cooktop cool before using it again.
| Code | What its page says |
|---|---|
| C81 | The cooktop has overheated, and a wall oven installed underneath can add to it. If C81 returns with that oven off, the cooling and temperature sensing need a technician. |
| C83 | The cooktop has overheated, often during searing at full power, a long boil in a large stockpot, or boost on several zones at once. |
| E_21 | The control panel switched off because the electronics beneath the touch area are too hot. A hot pan or lid set on or beside the controls can cause it; keep that area clear. |
| E_3 | The control panel switched off because its electronics are too hot, often halfway through a meal. Give it real time to cool rather than restarting it every few minutes. |
| E2 | The electronics have become too hot and the controls switched off. A kitchen that is already hot leaves them less margin, because they cool themselves with the air around the cooktop. |
| F0EA | The electronics got too hot and the control panel switched off. Once in a while that is protection; if it returns week after week or during light cooking, stop resetting and start recording. |
Codes published only with a power instruction#
| Code | What its page says |
|---|---|
| E_13 | Turn the circuit breakers off for one minute. That is the right first response; past a point, resetting stops being a repair and starts hiding a fault that is getting worse. |
| F0E2 | A single instruction: disconnect the cooktop from the power supply. No part and no meaning are published for it. |
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Codes that name a part, its wiring or the supply#
| Code | What its page says |
|---|---|
| F03 | An internal communication error on the touch control module. Cut the power at the breaker for a minute; if it returns, the module or its wiring needs a technician. |
| F12 | A possible problem with a hotplate (the cooking surface, burner or element) or with the wiring that feeds it. |
| F1E1 | The keypad has lost communication with the appliance manager. A link that worked and then stopped puts a connector at the top of the list. |
| F21 | A problem with power supply frequency, which almost always means the cooktop is fed by a generator, an inverter or a backup supply rather than the grid. It is refusing the supply, not failing on it. |
| F37 | A possible problem with a temperature sensor on an induction coil. Watch for a zone that loses power before it stops altogether; that is the earliest warning. |
| F60 | A possible problem with the touchpad or its wiring. Before calling, map which keys work and which do not: a panel dead in one area differs from one dead across the board. |
| FC E0 | The electrical supply, the wiring or the induction module. Reset the breaker fully, both poles, before anything else. |
| FC E1 | The cooktop touchpad or its wiring, but first rule out an engaged key lock and a damp panel or something resting on it. |
| FC E4 | The wire harness between the touchpad and the induction module: a harness, not an assembly. |
Owner steps the pages give, and where they stop#
- Do not touch the glass after C81: it can stay hot well after the zones switch off.
- F0E2 asks for a disconnect, and switching the cooktop off at its panel is not one: switch it off at its breaker, both poles, for a full minute.
- For F12, write down which zones fail and under what conditions; if a zone will not switch off, keep the cooktop off at the breaker.
- Do not lift the glass to reach the module behind F03: the glass is bonded to the frame and the module sits directly beneath it.
