The short answer
F37 is published as a possible problem with a temperature sensor on an induction coil — the same class of fault as its immediate neighbour, on a different zone or sensor position. The behaviour worth watching for is a zone that loses power before it stops altogether: the control backing off on a reading it distrusts is the earliest warning this fault gives.
Whirlpool cooktop code as the manufacturer publishes it
Reference| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| F37 | There may be a problem with a temperature sensor on an induction coil. |
What you observe alongside the code
- One zone drops out while the others keep working — The sensor belongs to a single coil.
- The zone works from cold and fails once hot — The signature of a temperature reading going out of range.
- Reduced power on the affected zone before it stops — The control backing off on a reading it distrusts.
- The code with the cooktop cold and idle — That points at the sensor circuit rather than at real heat.
What triggers it, most likely first
- A loose sensor connector at the induction module — Second: an open circuit and a hot sensor look the same to the control, and a connector is the cheaper of the two.
- A drifting or open coil temperature sensor — First: it is a small sensor bonded to a coil that heats and cools every day, and drift is its normal failure mode.
- A cooling fan not moving air over the coils — Fourth: on models with a fan, coil temperature climbs with nothing else wrong.
- Genuine heat soak in the coil assembly — Third: a blocked vent path or a long high-power session really does raise coil temperature, and the sensor is right.
Check in this order, and why
- Compare boiling times on the affected zone against another — A zone that has quietly lost power is this fault in its early stage.
- Note whether the fault needs heat or appears from cold — Cold points at the sensor circuit; hot points at real temperature.
- Check the ventilation path under the cooktop — Free, and it is the one cause you can fix yourself.
- Try the same pan on a different zone — Confirms the fault belongs to one coil.
Clearing the code, then the owner-safe checks
- Let the cooktop cool fully and retry the affected zone — Separates a heat problem from a sensor problem.
About 30 min
- Clear the cabinet beneath so air can reach the underside — The only owner-fixable cause on the list.
About 15 min
- Cook the same dish on another zone and compare — Isolates the coil.
About 20 min
- STOP HERE if the zone fails from cold — The sensor and the module are under the glass.
Before you open anything
Safety
Switch the cooktop off at its breaker before any panel comes off — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and a cooktop is fed from a double-pole breaker, so both poles have to be dead. The glass stays hot long after the zones are off. Never bridge or bypass a thermal cut-out or an interlock to keep cooking. A zone that is dropping out may still be hot, so check the glass with the back of a hand before wiping it.
When this code is a service call
Call when one zone fails from cold with the ventilation clear, because the sensor and the induction module both sit under the glass. The other zones stay usable in the meantime, so this is not urgent unless the affected zone heats when nothing is set — which is a reason to isolate at the breaker and call the same day.
Neighbouring Whirlpool cooktop codes
Which model lines this reading applies to
This reading of F37 applies to Whirlpool induction and radiant glass cooktops with the touch control that publishes this code, which is where the manufacturer documents it. A knob-controlled coil or gas cooktop has no display and cannot produce it, and a Whirlpool-built unit badged for another brand may pair the same characters with a different fault. Sensor part numbers differ by coil size, so the correct part depends on which zone is affected on your model.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.