This index lists the induction cooktop codes that each have a page of their own, grouped by what the code points at. Every line gives what that page says the code means and the first check it names; the code links to the full page, with the likely causes, how to clear the code and when it needs a technician.
Each linked page also names the cooktops its code is documented on.
The pan#
| Code | What it points at | The first check its page names |
|---|---|---|
| E0 | The active zone cannot find a pan it can heat: the zone is empty, or the cookware on it is not induction-compatible. | Hold a household magnet to the pan base. If it does not grip firmly, the pan cannot work on induction. |
| E3 | A pan is there but the cooktop cannot couple to it cleanly: usually a warped or convex base, or a magnetic layer too thin for the coil. | Rock the pan gently on a worktop. If it wobbles or spins, the base is distorted. |
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Heat and cooling#
| Code | What it points at | The first check its page names |
|---|---|---|
| E1 | Too much heat measured under the glass: the cooktop or an active zone has overheated and shut down until it cools. | Switch the zone off and let the surface cool for several minutes with nothing on it. |
| E2 | The control electronics beneath the glass have run too hot, most often because a pan was left dry-heating on a zone. | Remove any empty pan, switch everything off, and let the unit cool fully before trying again. |
| E6 | A cooling code: the cooktop cannot shed heat properly, because the airflow path is blocked, the cooling fan is weak, or a temperature sensor reads out of range. | Make sure the ventilation slots beneath and behind the glass are clear and the installation leaves the unit room to breathe. |
| F2 | A zone or the glass surface ran past its safe temperature and the cooktop cut the power. A protective response, not something to override. | Whether a pan was boiled dry or a zone was driven empty at high power. |
The electrical supply#
| Code | What it points at | The first check its page names |
|---|---|---|
| E4 | The incoming mains voltage read too low: a brown-out or a weak circuit is starving the cooktop. | Whether other things on the same circuit dim or struggle at the same time, which confirms the supply is sagging. |
| E5 | The incoming mains voltage read too high: the line is pushing above the safe ceiling for the electronics. | Whether it is constant or comes and goes, and whether the installation is recent: a wiring error at install is a common source. |
| U400 | The cooktop is connected to the wrong mains supply: a wiring or connection error made when it was installed or reconnected. | Timing: if U400 showed up the moment the cooktop was first powered on, the connection is the prime suspect. |
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The touch controls#
| Code | What it points at | The first check its page names |
|---|---|---|
| EF | Water, a spill or condensation is bridging the touch-control keys, so the cooktop cannot read a clean touch. | Wipe the whole glass control area completely dry with a soft cloth and lift off anything resting on it. |
| F0 | The control board reads a touch key as held down constantly and locks the cooktop out. | The glass surface: a spill, a wet cloth or a pan pushed against the touch area can fool the board into reading a permanent press. |
The control board and its sensors#
| Code | What it points at | The first check its page names |
|---|---|---|
| F1 | The control board has detected an internal fault it cannot narrow down to a specific key or sensor. | A clean power cycle, to rule out a one-off glitch. |
| F3 | A temperature-sensor or user-interface fault: the board is not getting a reading it trusts from a sensor or from the touch interface. | A full power cycle: off at the wall or breaker for a few minutes, then back on. |
| F4 | A zone temperature sensor is reading open or shorted, so the board has stopped trusting that zone. | A full power cycle, in case the reading was a momentary glitch. |
| F5 | The controller failed the self-check it runs the moment power comes on and flagged one of its own parts as faulty. | A single restart, to rule out a corrupted boot. |
| F8 | A switching relay inside the controller has failed, usually after a supply disturbance: a surge, a sag in voltage or a nearby lightning strike. | The recent behaviour of the electricity: a storm, a utility fault, or repeated dips just before the code appeared. |
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A setting, not a fault#
| Code | What it points at | The first check its page names |
|---|---|---|
| dE | Showroom demo mode: the panel lights up, beeps and responds to taps, but the zones never deliver any heat. | Whether the cooktop was recently installed, moved or had a power cut, which is when demo mode tends to switch itself on. |
When the pages send you to someone else#
- E4 and E5 point at the electrical supply, and their safe path can lead to a licensed electrician rather than a DIY fix. For U400, the safe path leads to whoever wired the cooktop: a qualified installer or a licensed electrician.
- If F3 or F4 returns after a clean power cycle, the causes are internal and lead to a technician rather than a home repair.
- After a surge or a storm, F8 can also mean a licensed electrician should inspect the circuit and weigh adding surge protection.
