The short answer
Read F1-C this way: the control asked for the door state and the oven door latch or the door lock switch and the wiring between them did not answer with one. A machine that cannot prove its door state will not start, because every interlock in it depends on that answer being true.
The code and what the manufacturer documents for it
Reference| Code | Documented meaning |
|---|---|
| F1-C | There may be a problem with the Oven Door Latch, the Door Lock Switch, or the associated wiring. |
Symptoms that travel with this code
- You hear the lock motor run and nothing latches — The motor turns, the cam does not reach its stop, and the switch never changes state.
- The cycle refuses to start with the door visibly shut — Visibly shut and electrically shut are different things, and only the second one counts.
- NEAR MISS - the door is locked and the display is dark — A dark display with a locked door is a power fault, and the release for it is a different procedure.
The likely causes in order
- Something in the way of the door or the strike — Ranked first because it needs no tools: a packed load, a rack proud of its rail or a bent strike stops the door short of the position the switch reports.
- A seal that has hardened and now holds the door proud — Common on older units and easy to miss: the door looks shut, the seal is what is stopping it travelling the last couple of millimetres to the switch.
What to check first, second and third
- Open the door and look along the strike and the seal — Free, and it finds the obstruction that causes most of these.
- Shut the door firmly and watch whether the lock completes its travel — Listening tells you whether the motor is running at all.
What an owner can safely do
- Clear the door line and try again — Move the load back from the opening, push each rack fully home, and shut the door in one firm movement.
About 5 min
- Check the hinges and the seal for an obvious drop — A door sitting low on its hinges misses the strike by a few millimetres, which is enough.
About 10 min
- STOP HERE if the lock assembly has to come out — Leave the door switch and its wiring exactly as the manufacturer fitted them: they are what keeps the machine from running with the door open.
Where the risk actually is
Safety
Safety line for this appliance: unplug it or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, and remember a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Interlocks and switches stay as fitted. A hot plug, a browned outlet or the smell of hot insulation all mean stop and call, whatever the code says.
Where an owner stops and a technician starts
The free checks above come first; past them this is a visit. Call when the door still will not lock with a clear opening, or when the code returns after a power-down: a lock motor and its switch are a single service assembly on most of these machines.
Neighbouring codes on this appliance
Which model lines this reading applies to
Applies to: the model lines that lock the door under control rather than by hand. Does not apply to: a specific model's wiring, its part numbers, or its service procedures, all of which vary and none of which are invented here. This page is the general reading of one code; where a more specific page exists for your family or model it is linked from the index below and it is the one to read first.
The code index and nearby reading
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