What you came for
This code says the control asked for the door state and the oven door latch or the door lock switch and the wiring between them did not answer with one. The cycle is held rather than the machine being unsafe: the control will not commit without a door it can verify.
The code and what the manufacturer documents for it
Reference| Code | Documented meaning |
|---|---|
| F1-A | There may be a problem with the Oven Door Latch, the Door Lock Switch, or the associated wiring. |
What is happening apart from the display
- The door will not lock, or will not release — Both are the same fault: the control cannot confirm the position, so it will not move on.
- The cycle refuses to start with the door visibly shut — Visibly shut and electrically shut are different things, and only the second one counts.
- NEAR MISS - the door is locked and the display is dark — A dark display with a locked door is a power fault, and the release for it is a different procedure.
What produces this code, likeliest first
- Something in the way of the door or the strike — Ranked first because it needs no tools: a packed load, a rack proud of its rail or a bent strike stops the door short of the position the switch reports.
- The switch inside the latch not changing state — Second: the contact is the part that wears, and it fails to make long before the motor stops turning.
Where to start, and what follows
- Power the machine down and let the lock reset itself — A lock stopped mid-travel homes itself on the next power-up.
- Close the door on a strip of paper at several points — Where the paper pulls free easily, the door is not meeting the seal - and that maps the fault without tools.
What an owner can safely do
- Check the hinges and the seal for an obvious drop — A door sitting low on its hinges misses the strike by a few millimetres, which is enough.
About 10 min
- Test the door seal with a strip of paper at each corner — A loose corner is where to look.
About 10 min
- STOP HERE if the lock assembly has to come out — Leave the door switch and its wiring exactly as the manufacturer fitted them: they are what keeps the machine from running with the door open.
Safety first, and it is not optional
Safety
Safety line for this appliance: unplug it or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, and remember a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Interlocks and switches stay as fitted.
Where an owner stops and a technician starts
Call before using it if the door can be opened while a cycle is running. An interlock that no longer holds is the one fault on this page that is about safety and not inconvenience.
Codes next to this one
How far this page applies
Written for the model lines that lock the door under control rather than by hand, this page describes what the code means and how to work through it, nothing more specific. Part numbers, connector layouts and resistance tables differ from one family to the next and are not guessed at here. A family-level or model-level page, where one exists, is the better answer for your unit - the index below lists what is available.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
