Maytag Oven Not Heating — Causes & Fixes
A Maytag oven that won't heat is usually a weak gas igniter (WPW10339563), a burned-out bake element (WPW10308477), or a failed temperature sensor (WPW10181986). On a gas range the silicon-carbide igniter glows but no longer draws enough current to open the gas safety valve; on an electric range the lower bake element…
Which Maytag you have#
The failure tracks by model: the MGR6600FZ and MGR6600FB gas ranges are igniter-prone, the MER6600FZ electric range burns out its bake element, and the MER8800FZ double oven runs its upper and lower elements independently. Read your model off the serial plate before ordering a part.
The five causes#
- A weak gas igniter (WPW10339563). The silicon-carbide igniter on Maytag gas ranges draws too little current to open the gas safety valve after about 3 to 5 years, so no gas flows even though it glows orange.
- A burned-out bake element (WPW10308477). The lower bake element on electric models develops visible breaks or blisters with use and loses continuity.
- A failed temperature sensor (WPW10181986). The NTC thermistor probe reads the wrong cavity temperature, so the control board never calls for heat.
- A blown thermal fuse (W10258275). An over-temperature event during self-clean blows the safety fuse behind the control panel, cutting power to the heating circuits.
- A control-board relay failure (WPW10308315). The relay contacts that switch power to the bake or broil element weld open and stop the current.
Do You Have the Right Tools?
Combustion analyzer ($300), igniter tester ($120), temperature calibrator ($150), and gas pressure manometer. Our technician arrives with $3,000+ in professional tools — your diagnostic is free.
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Testing it#
To check the bake element, disconnect power and inspect the lower element for breaks, blisters, or dark spots; a continuity test at the back-wall terminals should read 15 to 50 ohms, and an open circuit confirms failure. For a gas igniter, remember the safety valve needs the igniter to draw a minimum current — typically 3.2 to 3.6 amps — before it opens; as igniters age their resistance rises and current drops below that, so they glow but don't open the valve. If the oven quit after a self-clean, check the thermal fuse (W10258275) behind the back panel first.
Before the holiday season#
A dead oven the week of a holiday meal is a nightmare, so test the igniter or element now rather than mid-recipe. Leave gas and high-voltage work to a technician if you're unsure. A single failed igniter, element, sensor, or fuse on a Maytag under 8 to 10 years old is well worth repairing — book an EasyBear technician before the season.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.


