The short answer
Start here. On this refrigerator, cubes that get smaller run by run describe a supply that is closing gradually, not a switch that flipped. The line and the shut-off are free to check; a fill valve failing partly open is the part behind them.
What you actually see
- Hollow or partly formed cubes — Half-filled cubes point at fill volume rather than at freezing.
- Cubes fused into one block in the bin — A block in the bin is a melt-and-refreeze cycle, which means the freezer section is warming between runs.
- Water on the freezer floor under the ice maker — Overfilling shows as ice sheets under the maker rather than as cubes in the bin.
Causes, ranked for this refrigerator
- Fill valve failing to open fully — Top of the list: it also buzzes when it is being asked to open with no water behind it, which is a useful sound to recognise. Getting a definite answer here is worth more than a quick look at the three below it.
- No water reaching the fill valve — Next: a compact refrigerator is frequently installed without plumbing at all, and where it is plumbed the saddle valve is often barely open. If this is the answer, the rest of the list stops mattering entirely.
- Water filter clogged or overdue — Then: it is ranked here rather than first because compact units frequently have no filter at all. Where this checks out clean, treat the next entry as the working theory rather than a possibility.
What to check, in order
- First — the inlet valve — Listen at the back during a fill attempt. A buzz with no water arriving means the valve is energized and not passing.
- Second — the supply line and shut-off — Look for a kink where the line passes behind the unit. Pushing a cabinet back against its own supply line is common.
Checks an owner can do safely
- Step 1. Confirm the ice maker is switched on — Check the wire arm or switch is in the run position and nothing in the bin is holding the arm up. This is the most common single answer.
Tools: noneAbout 5 min
- Step 2. Check the supply valve and the line — Follow the line from the cabinet back to the shut-off. Open the valve fully and straighten any kink where the line passes behind the unit.
Tools: flashlightAbout 15 min
- Step 3. Listen for the fill valve during a cycle — A buzz at the back with no water arriving means the valve is being energized and is not passing water.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, and close the water supply valve before you loosen a hose. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Water and a live cabinet are the combination that turns a small leak into an electrical fault, so power and water both come off before the towels come out.
When this becomes a service call
The line is not about confidence, it is about what the next step needs. If the ice fault turns out to be a freezer section that will not hold temperature, the cooling checks are the right page and the ice maker will recover on its own once they are done.
Sources
General guidance- The Control of Hazardous Energy (Lockout/Tagout) — OSHA 1910.147 and manufacturer service manuals, fetched
- Refrigeration and Food Safety — USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service, fetched
Nearest pages
What this page does not cover
This is the general page. It applies to Black+Decker refrigerators broadly and deliberately avoids anything that would only be true of one family or one production run — board revisions, part numbers, code tables and torque figures all belong a level down. Where such a page exists it takes precedence over this one, and Related pages is where to find it.
Related pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
