The short answer
On a Black+Decker refrigerator, most new noise is the cabinet or its surroundings rather than a failing part, and levelling ends a large share of these complaints. Everything worth checking first is free and reversible; a bearing or a compressor sound is where it becomes a service call.
What you actually see
- A rattle that comes and goes with the compressor — It starts when the compressor starts and stops when it stops, which places it at the back of the cabinet rather than inside it.
- A buzz that rises and falls — A tone that changes pitch is almost always a fan blade touching something, not an electrical noise.
- A clicking every few minutes with no run — Click, silence, click again is the overload protector cycling and it is a fault, not a noise.
Causes, ranked for this refrigerator
- Cabinet not level or resting on three feet — Ranks first because a light compact cabinet on adjustable feet will rock on any floor that is not flat, and every compressor cycle becomes a rattle through the case. A clean result here does not just remove one part; it removes everything that depends on it.
- Something touching the back of the cabinet — Second because on a small unit the back is crowded, so any item stored behind or beside the cabinet ends up in contact with a part that vibrates. It is worth being sure about this one rather than half-sure, since everything after it assumes a verdict.
- Drip tray loose in its channel — Third because the tray is a light plastic part sitting near the compressor, and once it slides out of its channel it buzzes against the frame. This is the entry most often blamed correctly and diagnosed carelessly, so take the extra minute.
What to check, in order
- First — the feet and the floor — Rock the cabinet gently side to side. Movement means the load is on three feet, and the fourth is what you adjust.
- Second — the space behind the cabinet — Unplug the unit, pull it out, and look at what is touching the coil, the compressor and the tubing. Move each thing a finger-width clear.
Checks an owner can do safely
- Step 1. Identify when the noise happens — Stand by the unit and note whether the sound starts with the compressor, runs all the time, or arrives on a schedule. That single observation removes most of the list.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
- Step 2. Level the cabinet — Push each front corner down in turn. Adjust the foot under any corner that moves until all four are loaded, then run the unit and listen again.
Tools: adjustable spanner or handAbout 15 min
- Step 3. Seat the drip tray — Reach under the back with the unit unplugged and check the tray is square in its channel. Reseat it if it moves under one finger.
Tools: flashlightAbout 10 min
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, so treat a stored charge as live even when the cord is in your hand. Do not run the machine with a panel off to watch what happens, and do not defeat any switch that cuts power when a door opens.
When this becomes a service call
The line is not about confidence, it is about what the next step needs. Call when the noise is coming from the compressor body itself, when the fan is seized rather than fouled, or when the sound arrives together with a cabinet that is no longer cold.
Sources
General guidance- The Control of Hazardous Energy (Lockout/Tagout) — OSHA 1910.147 and manufacturer service manuals, fetched
Nearest pages
What this page does not cover
This page is written for Black+Decker refrigerators in general. It does not cover a specific family, a specific model number or a control board revision, and where a family or model page exists it will be more precise than this one — start here to understand the fault, then follow the more specific page for the part numbers and the board layout. The nearest pages of that kind are linked under Related pages.
Related pages
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
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