How to Replace a Bosch Washer Inlet Valve

Bosch meters the fill through a solenoid valve at the top rear where the supply hose connects. When a solenoid coil burns out the valve will not open, and when the fine inlet screen clogs with sediment the fill slows to a trickle. Bosch also fits many machines with an AquaStop hose that has a shutoff valve built into the hose end, and that valve holds pressure until the hose is off — a detail that catches people out with a wet floor if they are not ready for it.

As with any washer fill fault, the cheap check comes first. The inlet screen inside the hose coupling traps sediment and rust carried down from the household supply, and a screen packed solid slows the fill exactly like a weak solenoid would. Pull the hose, hold the little screen to the light, and rinse it clear before you open the machine — if a clean screen and fully open taps restore the fill, you have saved yourself the whole valve job.

Tools and parts#

Bosch uses Torx throughout, so lead with a Torx T20 driver and keep a Phillips #2 as backup, plus a 10mm socket, needle-nose pliers, a multimeter, a bucket, and towels. For the part, match your model: a Bosch inlet valve such as BSH 00622058 fits most 300 and 500 series, and BSH 00618393 fits the 800 series — verify against your model number.

Safety#

Unplug the washer and turn off both water supply valves. If your Bosch has AquaStop hoses, the hose-end valve will not release water pressure until the hose is disconnected — have a towel under the connection.

Replace the valve#

1. Disconnect water and power. Unplug the machine, close both taps, and unthread the supply hose at the back — keep a towel under an AquaStop hose, since its built-in valve lets go of trapped water as it comes off.
2. Remove the top panel. Back out the rear Torx T20 screws and slide the top panel off to expose the inlet valve just inside the rear.
3. Test the valve solenoids. With power off, meter each solenoid coil across its terminals; a good coil reads a sensible resistance while an open reading marks a dead solenoid and confirms the valve.
4. Disconnect wiring and internal hoses. Unplug the solenoid connectors and release the clamp on each outlet hose, noting which line feeds which port so the new valve goes back correctly.
5. Remove the old valve. Take out the mounting screw or release the retaining tab and lift the valve body free of the cabinet.
6. Install the new valve. Fit the matching BSH valve, reconnect the outlet hoses and clamps, seat the wiring, and secure the mount so the valve cannot vibrate loose.
7. Reassemble and test. Refit the top panel, reconnect the supply hose, open the taps, and run a rinse — watch for a full, timely fill and no leaks at the hose connection or the valve.

When to call a pro#

If the screen, hoses, and valve all check out but the machine still will not fill, the flow meter or control board may be misreading, which needs a technician. A repeatedly tripping AquaStop shutoff can also signal a leak the system is catching, worth investigating before more parts go in.

Need professional help?#

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