What you came for
F3T3 on an oven of this generation means the resistance it reads across the hood temperature thermistor and its wiring left the window the control accepts. The control stops the heat rather than work from a reading it cannot trust, so the cycle will not finish while the code stands.
The code table for this reading
Reference| Code | Documented meaning |
|---|---|
| F3T3 | There may be a problem with the Hood Temperature Thermistor or the associated wiring. |
The observable side of this fault
- The fault comes and goes with temperature — An intermittent connection opens as the metal expands and closes again when it cools, which is why the code often arrives part-way through a long cycle.
- The fault follows the weather or the time of day — A cold kitchen and a hot one put a marginal probe on opposite sides of its limit, which is why some of these arrive seasonally.
- NEAR MISS - nothing heats and no code shows at all — That is a power or element fault rather than a reading fault, and it belongs on the page for that symptom.
Causes, and why they rank that way
- A loose or corroded connector at the thermistor — Ranked first because it is the failure that needs no part: the probe is fine, the joint carrying its signal is not, and heat cycling at the back of the cavity is what works a pin loose.
- Hood temperature thermistor out of tolerance — Second: the element itself drifts or opens with age, and once it reads outside the accepted band the control has nothing to work from.
The order to work through it
- Look at the connector at the thermistor before anything is measured — Seated, clean and tight is a five-second answer to the most likely cause.
- Follow the harness for rub marks where it crosses metal — A witness mark tells you the fault is in the wire, not in the part at either end.
The owner-side procedure
- Clear the code with a full power-down — A code that does not return was a single bad read.
About 5 min
- Let the cavity reach room temperature before anything else — A hot resistance reading means nothing, and a hot cavity is the reason half of these codes cannot be diagnosed on the spot.
About 45 min
- STOP HERE if the next step is a meter across the probe terminals — That means a panel off and a connector back-probed, which is where an owner check ends and a service call begins.
The safety line on this appliance
Safety
Power off at the breaker or at the plug before any panel is removed - a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. The owner-side checks on this page need no panel removed at all.
When a reset is not the answer
Call straight away if you smell hot insulation or see discoloured wiring at the back — a connector hot enough to discolour is arcing, and that is a different and more urgent problem than the reading the code named. Short of that: call once the code survives a full power-down: a repeatable reading fault is a probe, a harness or a board, and telling those three apart needs a meter and the resistance table for that model line.
The nearest codes in this set
What this page does not cover
Applies to: the model lines that use this probe on this cavity. Does not apply to: a specific model's wiring, its part numbers, or its service procedures, all of which vary and none of which are invented here. This page is the general reading of one code; where a more specific page exists for your family or model it is linked from the index below and it is the one to read first.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
