Samsung Washer Error Codes: UE, DC, SE, nF & Complete Reference

Samsung washers display error codes on the digital panel when something goes wrong. Some codes indicate a simple fix you can handle yourself in minutes. Others point to a component failure that requires professional repair. This guide covers every common Samsung washer error code, what causes it, and whether you can fix it at home.

UE / Ub — Unbalanced Load

What it means: The washer detected an unbalanced load during the spin cycle and stopped to prevent damage.

Common causes:

• Washing a single heavy item (comforter, blanket, jeans) without counterbalancing items
• Overloading the drum
• Washer not level

What to do:

1. Open the door and redistribute the items evenly around the drum
2. If washing a single large item, add a few towels to balance the load
3. Check that the washer is level — place a bubble level on top and adjust the feet
4. Restart the spin cycle

DIY or pro? DIY in almost all cases. If the error persists with balanced loads and a level machine, the suspension rods or shock absorbers may be worn — that requires professional repair ($150-$300).

DC — Door Not Closed

What it means: The washer cannot detect that the door is fully closed and locked.

Common causes:

• Door not pushed firmly shut
• Clothing caught in the door seal
• Worn or damaged door latch
• Faulty door lock assembly

What to do:

1. Open and firmly close the door, making sure nothing is caught in the gasket
2. Inspect the door latch for visible damage
3. Clean the latch and strike plate with a damp cloth
4. If the door clicks shut but the error persists, the door lock assembly may need replacement

DIY or pro? Start with DIY (cleaning, re-closing). If the latch mechanism is damaged, door lock replacement costs $80-$180 professionally.

SE / 5E — Drain Error

What it means: The washer cannot drain water within the expected time.

Common causes:

• Clogged drain pump filter (the most common cause)
• Kinked or clogged drain hose
• Drain pump failure
• Drain standpipe blockage

What to do:

1. Check the drain pump filter — it is behind a small access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Place towels down, slowly open the cap, and drain water into a shallow pan. Remove any coins, buttons, hair ties, or debris
2. Inspect the drain hose for kinks or clogs
3. Make sure the drain hose is not inserted more than 6 inches into the standpipe
4. Run a spin/drain cycle to test

DIY or pro? DIY for filter cleaning and hose issues. If the drain pump itself is failed (motor not running), professional replacement costs $180-$320.

nF / 4E — No Fill (Water Supply Error)

What it means: The washer is not receiving water or not filling fast enough.

Common causes:

• Water supply valves turned off
• Kinked supply hoses
• Clogged inlet filter screens
• Faulty water inlet valve

What to do:

1. Verify both hot and cold supply valves behind the washer are fully open
2. Check supply hoses for kinks
3. Turn off valves, disconnect hoses from the washer, and inspect the small mesh screens in the inlet valve. Clean any sediment or mineral buildup (common in Sacramento and Bay Area hard water)
4. Reconnect, turn on valves, and test

DIY or pro? DIY for valve and filter issues. If screens are clean and valves are open but the washer still will not fill, the inlet valve needs replacement ($120-$220 professionally).

LE / LE1 — Water Level Sensor Error

What it means: The washer detected a low water level or a water leak.

Common causes:

• Excessive suds from too much detergent (especially with HE machines)
• Leaking door boot seal
• Faulty water level pressure switch
• Loose hose connections

What to do:

1. If you see excessive suds, run a rinse cycle and reduce detergent in future loads. Use only HE detergent in HE machines
2. Check for visible leaks under and around the washer
3. Inspect the door gasket for tears or debris preventing a seal
4. If no visible cause, the pressure switch or its hose may need inspection

DIY or pro? DIY for suds and simple leak issues. Pressure switch or sensor replacement requires a professional ($120-$250).

dE / Ed — Door Lock Error

What it means: The door lock mechanism has failed to engage or disengage.

Common causes:

• Power glitch during cycle
• Worn door lock actuator
• Wiring issue between door lock and control board

What to do:

1. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, then plug back in and try again
2. Check for objects obstructing the door latch
3. If the door is physically locked and won't open, try the emergency release (a small tab or cord accessible from behind the bottom panel)

DIY or pro? Power cycle fixes most transient cases. Persistent dE errors require door lock replacement ($80-$180 professionally).

OE / 0E — Overflow Error

What it means: The washer has detected too much water in the tub.

Common causes:

• Faulty water inlet valve (stuck open)
• Malfunctioning water level sensor
• Control board issue

What to do:

1. Cancel the cycle and unplug the washer immediately
2. Check if water continues to flow even with the machine unplugged — if so, the inlet valve is stuck open. Turn off the supply valves immediately
3. Do not attempt to use the washer until the issue is resolved

DIY or pro? This requires professional diagnosis. A stuck-open inlet valve is a water damage risk and should be repaired promptly ($120-$250).

tE / tE1 / tE2 — Temperature Sensor Error

What it means: The water temperature sensor is reading outside normal range.

Common causes:

• Faulty thermistor (temperature sensor)
• Wiring connection issue
• Control board problem

What to do:

1. Unplug for 5 minutes and restart — transient sensor glitches sometimes resolve
2. If the error returns, the thermistor needs testing and likely replacement

DIY or pro? Professional repair needed. Thermistor replacement costs $100-$200.

Sud / Sd — Excessive Suds

What it means: The washer detected too many suds, which impedes draining and rinsing.

What to do:

1. Let the washer sit for 15-20 minutes — it will try to dissolve the suds
2. Run an extra rinse cycle
3. In future loads, use less detergent (1-2 tablespoons of HE detergent is sufficient)
4. Hard water areas like Sacramento require less detergent because mineral content affects suds formation differently

DIY or pro? Always DIY. This is a detergent amount issue, not a machine problem.

When to Call a Professional

Call a technician if:

• The error code persists after performing the recommended steps
• You see error codes you do not recognize (Samsung occasionally updates codes with new models)
• The washer displays multiple different error codes in a short period — this often indicates a control board issue
• Any error involving water overflow (OE) or electrical components (tE, PE)

Samsung error codes are diagnostic clues, not repair instructions. They tell you where to look but not always what is wrong. A trained technician uses the error code as a starting point and then tests the specific components to identify the actual failure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I reset my Samsung washer error code? A: Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, then plug it back in. This clears most transient error codes. If the error returns after a reset, the underlying problem still exists and needs to be addressed.

Q: Are Samsung washers reliable? A: Samsung washers offer good features and competitive pricing, but our repair data shows they have higher-than-average failure rates for control boards and drain pumps compared to LG and Whirlpool. Regular maintenance — especially cleaning the drain filter monthly — significantly reduces the likelihood of problems.

Q: My Samsung washer is showing an error but is still under warranty. What should I do? A: Samsung's standard warranty covers parts and labor for one year. The motor and tub seal are typically covered for 3 years, and the direct-drive motor (if equipped) may be covered for 10 years. Contact Samsung directly at 1-800-726-7864 to schedule a warranty service visit. If your washer is out of warranty, EasyBear offers free diagnostic visits and can repair all Samsung washer models.