Electrolux Dishwasher Error Codes: Complete Troubleshooting Guide

Electrolux dishwashers use a lowercase alphanumeric error code system (i10, i20, i30, etc.) that differs from their washer and dryer E-codes. This guide covers every Electrolux dishwasher error code across the EI24, EIDW, and newer 700 Series models, including the Frigidaire Gallery and Professional Series dishwashers that share the same platform. Each code includes step-by-step diagnosis, real Electrolux part numbers, and accurate cost estimates.

As the Swedish parent company of Frigidaire, Electrolux builds dishwashers under both brand names using shared control systems. The i-codes apply equally to both brands — the only differences are cosmetic trim and some part numbers.

How Electrolux Dishwasher Error Codes Work

Electrolux dishwashers display error codes on the digital panel after a fault interrupts a wash cycle. The system uses a lowercase "i" prefix followed by a two-digit number indicating the subsystem:

• i1x — Water supply (i10 no water)
• i2x/i4x — Drain system (i20 blockage, i40 secondary drain fault)
• i3x — Leak detection (i30 overflow/flood)
• i5x — Motor faults (i50 drain pump)
• i6x — Heating (i60 heater fault)
• PF — Power failure

Universal reset:

1. Press Cancel/Drain to stop the current cycle and drain any water.
2. Turn off the dishwasher at the circuit breaker for 60 seconds.
3. Turn the breaker back on and run a quick rinse cycle.
4. If the code returns, the fault requires physical repair.

Important: Electrolux dishwashers are hard-wired (no plug) in most installations. Always turn off the dedicated circuit breaker before any repair work — do not rely on the door switch as a safety cutoff.

i10 — Water Supply Error

The i10 code means the dishwasher is not filling with water. This is the most common code and usually has the simplest fix.

Common causes:

• Water supply valve under the sink is not fully open (the number one cause, especially after plumbing work)
• Kinked or pinched inlet hose under the sink
• Clogged inlet valve screen filter (mineral deposits from hard water — extremely common in Bay Area homes)
• Faulty water inlet valve solenoid (part 807131901)
• Low water pressure (Electrolux dishwashers require 20–120 PSI)

How to fix:

1. Check the supply valve. Open the cabinet under the sink and locate the hot water supply valve for the dishwasher (usually a quarter-turn ball valve on a separate line). Verify it is fully open.
2. Run hot water at the kitchen sink first. This primes the hot water line so the dishwasher fills with hot water from the start. Cold water at the beginning of a cycle reduces cleaning performance and can trigger timeout errors.
3. Clean the inlet valve screen. Turn off the water supply. Disconnect the inlet hose at the dishwasher end (underneath the unit, behind the kick plate). Inside the valve connection, find the mesh screen filter. Remove it with needle-nose pliers and clean under running water. Vinegar soak for 15 minutes dissolves mineral deposits.
4. Test the inlet valve solenoid. Measure resistance — should read 500–1500 ohms. OL means the solenoid is burned out and the valve must be replaced.
5. Check water pressure. If the kitchen faucet runs weak, the issue is household plumbing, not the dishwasher.

Parts and costs:

• Water inlet valve (part 807131901): $40–$75
• Inlet hose assembly (part 5304517871): $20–$40
• Professional repair total: $80–$200

Bay Area note: Hard water is a leading cause of i10 codes in the San Francisco Bay Area. The inlet valve screen clogs with calcium deposits much faster here than in soft-water regions. Clean the screen every 6 months as preventive maintenance.

i20 — Drain Error

The i20 code indicates the dishwasher cannot drain water after a wash or rinse cycle. Water remains standing in the tub bottom.

Common causes:

• Clogged triple-filter system at the tub bottom (food particles, glass shards, labels from jars)
• Blocked drain hose at the garbage disposal or air-gap connection
• Drain pump impeller jammed by a foreign object
• High-loop or air-gap installation issue allowing backflow from the sink drain

How to fix:

1. Clean the triple-filter system. Remove the bottom rack. Twist and lift the cylindrical filter in the center of the tub floor. Remove the flat mesh filter underneath. Clean both under running water with a soft brush. Check the sump area below for broken glass, olive pits, or other debris.
2. Check the drain connection at the disposal. If the dishwasher drains into a garbage disposal, ensure the knockout plug was removed during installation (a very common installation error). Run the disposal to clear any accumulated food.
3. Inspect the drain hose. Follow the hose from the dishwasher to the sink drain or disposal. Check for kinks, especially where the hose connects at the disposal or air-gap. The hose must form a high-loop (reaching the underside of the countertop) or connect through an air-gap to prevent backflow.
4. Test the drain pump. If the pump makes no sound during the drain phase, test the motor — should read 5–40 ohms. If it hums but water does not drain, the impeller may be cracked or a foreign object is jammed in the pump housing.

Parts and costs:

• Drain pump assembly (part 5304506681): $50–$100
• Filter assembly (part 5304517868): $20–$40
• Professional repair total: $100–$250

i30 — Leak / Overflow Detected

The i30 code is a safety-critical alert indicating the dishwasher's flood sensor has detected water in the base pan — water is somewhere it should not be. The dishwasher will attempt to drain and will not allow a new cycle to start.

Common causes:

• Door gasket (seal) failure — torn, warped, or compressed from age
• Hose connection leak at the pump or inlet valve
• Float switch in the base pan triggered by even a small amount of water
• Using non-dishwasher soap (hand dish soap creates massive suds that overflow through seals)
• Cracked tub or sump housing (rare)

How to fix:

1. Disconnect power at the breaker. Water and electricity are a lethal combination — do not work on a leaking dishwasher with power connected.
2. Inspect the door gasket. Open the door and run your fingers along the entire rubber gasket. Feel for tears, hardened sections, food debris wedged into the seal, or areas where the gasket has pulled away from the channel. On older units, the gasket loses elasticity and no longer seals when the door closes.
3. Check the base pan. Remove the kick plate (usually 2 screws). Look inside the base area with a flashlight. If you see standing water, find the source — trace drip patterns upward.
4. Inspect hose connections. Check every hose connection: inlet valve to tub, tub to pump, pump to drain hose. Tighten any clamps that have loosened. Look for cracked hose ends.
5. Verify detergent type. If someone accidentally used hand dish soap or laundry detergent, the resulting suds overflow through every seal. Run multiple rinse-only cycles to flush the soap, and mop up water in the base pan.

Parts and costs:

• Door gasket (part 5304514065): $30–$60
• Float switch assembly (part 807131901): $25–$50
• Drain pump (part 5304506681): $50–$100
• Professional repair total: $120–$350

Warning: Disconnect power before inspecting the base pan — the leak may have reached electrical components. Even a small amount of water on the control board or pump wiring can cause short circuits.

Diagnostic shortcut: Tilt the dishwasher forward slightly (with power disconnected) and check if water drains from the base pan. Even a tablespoon of water can trigger the float switch. If the base pan is dry but i30 persists, the float switch itself may be stuck in the triggered position — gently tap the switch to free it.

i40 — Secondary Drain Fault

The i40 code is closely related to i20 and appears when the drain system has a secondary timeout — the initial drain attempt partially succeeded but a subsequent drain cycle failed.

Common causes:

• Same causes as i20 (clogged filter, blocked hose, pump issue)
• Intermittent blockage in the drain check valve (the valve that prevents backflow)
• Partial pump failure (pump drains slowly, succeeds sometimes, fails other times)

How to fix: Follow all i20 troubleshooting steps first. Additionally:

1. Check the drain check valve. Located at the pump outlet, this one-way valve prevents water from flowing back into the tub. If it sticks partially closed, draining is intermittent. Remove and clean it, or replace if the flap is cracked.
2. Monitor the drain sound. If the pump sounds strong sometimes but weak at other moments, the impeller may have a crack that allows it to slip on the shaft intermittently.

Parts and costs:

• Same as i20 — drain pump assembly (part 5304506681): $50–$100
• Drain check valve (included in pump assembly on most models)
• Professional repair total: $100–$250

i50 — Drain Motor Error

The i50 code indicates the drain pump motor itself has failed — not just a blockage, but an electrical fault in the pump.

Common causes:

• Drain pump motor windings burned out
• Foreign object jamming the impeller (glass, bones, toothpicks)
• Wiring harness damage between the control board and pump
• Control board unable to send power to the pump circuit

How to diagnose and fix:

1. Check for impeller obstruction. Remove the filters and inspect the pump area. Small pieces of glass, broken dish fragments, or bone splinters can jam the impeller. On Electrolux models, the pump is accessible from inside the tub after removing the filters and spray arm.
2. Measure pump motor resistance — should read 5–40 ohms. OL means the motor windings are burned out. 0 ohms means a short circuit in the windings.
3. Inspect the wiring harness from the control board to the pump connector. Look for burns, breaks, or connector damage.
4. Test voltage at the pump connector during a drain cycle (carefully, with power on). Should see 120V AC. No voltage means the control board is not sending the signal — board repair or replacement needed.

Parts and costs:

• Drain pump assembly (part 5304506681): $50–$100
• Main control board (part 5304514200): $120–$250
• Professional repair total: $150–$350

Diagnosis tip: If the pump hums but does not drain, the impeller is jammed — you can usually clear it. If the pump is completely silent, check for 120V at the pump connector first. No voltage means a board-side fault; with voltage and no pump action, the pump motor has failed.

i60 — Heating Error

The i60 code means the dishwasher's water heating system cannot reach the target temperature within the allowed time. This affects wash performance and sanitization.

Common causes:

• Heating element failure (the flow-through heater loses resistance or opens)
• NTC thermistor (temperature sensor) malfunction sending incorrect readings
• Control board heating relay failure
• Incoming water temperature too low (under 120°F increases heating time beyond limits)
• Wiring fault in the heater circuit

How to diagnose and fix:

1. Test the heating element. Electrolux dishwashers use a flow-through heater located beneath the tub (not a visible coil inside the tub like older models). Measure resistance — should read 10–30 ohms. OL means the element has failed.
2. Test the NTC thermistor. This sensor monitors water temperature. At room temperature (~72°F), it should read approximately 55K ohms. Resistance drops as temperature rises. A reading far outside expected values indicates sensor failure.
3. Check incoming water temperature. Run the hot water at the kitchen sink until it is hot, then start the dishwasher. If your water heater is set below 120°F, the dishwasher heating element must work much harder and may not reach the target in time.
4. Inspect wiring from board to heater. The heater circuit carries significant current — check for burned connectors, melted wire insulation, or loose terminals.

Parts and costs:

• Heating element (part 5304517972): $50–$90
• NTC thermistor (part 5304506932): $12–$25
• Main control board (part 5304514200): $120–$250
• Professional repair total: $150–$400

Tip: Run hot water at the sink for 30–60 seconds before starting the dishwasher. This ensures hot water reaches the dishwasher immediately rather than waiting for the water heater to deliver through cold pipes. This simple habit reduces heater strain and improves cleaning performance.

PF — Power Failure

PF indicates the dishwasher lost power during a cycle. This is usually caused by an external event rather than a dishwasher fault.

Common causes:

• Actual power outage in the home
• Circuit breaker tripped (common if the dishwasher shares a circuit with another high-draw appliance)
• GFCI outlet tripped (some installations use GFCI protection)
• Loose wiring at the junction box under the dishwasher

How to fix:

1. Press Start/Resume to continue the interrupted cycle. If the power loss was momentary, the dishwasher picks up where it left off.
2. Check the circuit breaker. Ensure the dishwasher is on a dedicated 15 or 20-amp circuit. If it shares a circuit with a garbage disposal, both running simultaneously can trip the breaker.
3. Inspect junction box wiring under the dishwasher (behind the kick plate). Ensure wire nuts are tight and connections are secure. Loose connections cause intermittent power loss, especially during the heating phase when current draw increases.

Parts and costs:

• Power cord assembly (part 5304514553): $15–$30 (if cord is damaged)
• Usually $0 — no parts needed
• Professional repair total: $0–$80

Recurring PF: If PF appears after every cycle without an actual outage, the issue is an intermittent power connection — either at the breaker, the junction box, or within the wiring run. This needs electrical diagnosis.

Electrolux Dishwasher Diagnostic Mode

1. Enter diagnostic mode: Close the door. Press and hold the Delay Start and Sanitize Rinse buttons (or the two leftmost option buttons on some models) simultaneously for 3 seconds. The display shows diagnostic indicators.
2. Test sequence: The dishwasher runs through fill, wash motor, drain, and heat tests. Listen and watch at each stage to identify where the fault occurs.
3. Error history: Diagnostic mode displays stored error codes chronologically. Note all codes — intermittent faults that do not trigger during normal operation may appear in the history.
4. Sensor readings: In advanced diagnostic mode, you can view real-time thermistor temperature, water level, and motor current readings.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I reset my Electrolux dishwasher? A: Turn off the circuit breaker for 60 seconds, then turn it back on. Run a short rinse cycle to verify the reset worked. Unlike washers and dryers that have a simple plug to pull, most Electrolux dishwashers are hard-wired — the breaker is your reset switch.

Q: Why does my Electrolux dishwasher smell bad even after cleaning? A: Standing water in the sump (even a small amount) breeds bacteria. If the drain pump is weak or the check valve is not seating properly, a small pool remains after every cycle. Clean the filters, check the drain system per i20 instructions, and run an empty cycle with dishwasher cleaner (or 2 cups of white vinegar in a bowl on the top rack).

Q: My Electrolux dishwasher leaves dishes cloudy — is this an error code issue? A: Usually not — cloudy dishes indicate hard water etching, low water temperature, or wrong detergent. However, i60 (heating error) can cause poor cleaning that leaves residue. Check for stored error codes in diagnostic mode even if no code is actively displayed.

Q: Are Electrolux and Frigidaire dishwasher error codes the same? A: Yes, the i-code system (i10, i20, i30, etc.) is identical across both brands. Electrolux owns Frigidaire and uses the same control platform. Part numbers may differ slightly between brands, but diagnostics and troubleshooting are the same.

Q: The dishwasher fills with water when it is turned off. What is happening? A: This is NOT an i-code situation — this indicates the water inlet valve is stuck open. Turn off the supply valve under the sink immediately and replace the inlet valve (part 807131901). A stuck-open inlet valve can flood your kitchen.

When to Call a Professional

• i30 with unknown leak source — If you cannot identify where the water is entering the base pan, professional diagnosis with the unit running is necessary.
• i50 when pump is silent with voltage present — Confirmed pump motor failure requires part replacement and sometimes electrical diagnosis of the board circuit.
• i60 when both element and thermistor test good — Control board heating relay failure requires board-level diagnosis.
• Any code after a flood event — If the dishwasher flooded and now shows multiple codes, water may have damaged the control board or wiring. Professional assessment of all electrical components is critical before energizing the unit.
• Electrical smell or visible arcing — Disconnect power immediately at the breaker and call a professional.

Dealing with Electrolux dishwasher problems? EasyBear technicians carry common Electrolux dishwasher parts — inlet valves, drain pumps, heating elements, thermistors, and control boards — on every service truck. We offer free diagnostic visits: our tech identifies the exact issue, explains your options, and completes the repair on the spot in most cases. Every repair includes our 90-day parts and labor warranty. Schedule your free Electrolux dishwasher diagnosis today.