How to Replace LG Washing Machine Shock Absorbers

These absorbers connect the outer tub assembly to the base frame and keep the drum from banging the cabinet walls during high-speed spin (up to 1,400 RPM on LG models). When they wear, you get excessive vibration, loud banging during spin, the machine walking across the floor, and UE (Unbalanced) error codes. Always replace all four as a complete set — mixing old and new creates uneven damping that can actually be worse than four uniformly worn ones. The job runs 30-45 minutes and is mostly bottom access.

Tools, Parts, and Safety First#

• Tools needed: Needle-nose pliers, channel-lock pliers (alternative), flat-blade screwdriver, towels
• Parts needed: Shock absorber set 4901ER2003A (set of 4, varies)
• Time required: 30-45 minutes
• Difficulty: Intermediate
• Safety warning: Disconnect power. Drain all water through the front pump filter. The machine must be tipped on its back — protect the rear panel and ensure the area is clear.

Step-by-Step Instructions#

Step 1 — Prepare the machine#

Unplug the washer, open the front service panel, and drain all residual water through the pump filter into a pan, closing the filter when done. Pull the machine out to where you have room to tip it back.

Step 2 — Tip the machine onto its back#

Lay a thick blanket or moving pad behind the machine to protect the rear panel and floor, and with a helper carefully tip it backward onto the blanket, giving you full access to the underside where the shock absorbers sit. On some LG models you can reach the absorbers from the rear (remove the rear panel) without tipping, but bottom access gives the best angle for the retaining pins.

Step 3 — Identify the shock absorbers#

Looking underneath, you will see four absorbers running at angles from the tub assembly (upper connection) to the four corners of the base frame (lower connection), each a cylindrical tube about 8-10 inches long with ball-and-socket joints at both ends held by metal retaining pins. Inspect them: worn ones may leak oil from the cylinder body, have cracked or perished rubber bushings, or show excessive play in the ball joints. A healthy absorber resists compression firmly; a worn one compresses easily.

Step 4 — Remove the first absorber#

Start with any absorber and find the retaining pin at the lower (base-frame) ball joint — a metal clip through the socket housing that locks the ball in place. Grip the pin end with needle-nose pliers and pull it straight out (on some models the pin has a bent end you must straighten first). With the pin out, the ball joint is free, so pull the absorber's lower end out of the socket, then do the same at the upper (tub) end — remove that pin and free the joint — and remove the old absorber.

Step 5 — Install the new absorber#

Position the new absorber with the correct end up — they are directional, with the thicker rubber-bushing end usually to the base frame and the thinner end to the tub. Seat the upper ball into the tub socket first and insert the retaining pin until it snaps in, then seat the lower ball into the base-frame socket and insert its pin. Verify both pins are fully engaged — you should feel them click past the retention point — because a partially inserted pin can pop out during spin and let the tub swing free.

Step 6 — Replace the remaining three absorbers#

Repeat Steps 4-5 for each remaining absorber, working systematically around the tub (clockwise or counterclockwise) so you do not miss any. With all four in, push on the tub from various angles to confirm it rebounds evenly in all directions with no free-swinging at any point.

Step 7 — Right the machine and test#

With a helper, carefully lift the machine back upright, push it into place, reconnect power, and re-level it with the adjustable feet (check with a bubble level). Run a Rinse and Spin with a small balanced load (two bath towels) and watch the entire spin ramp-up — vibration should be minimal and no UE error should appear.

Step 8 — Break-in period#

New absorbers need a brief break-in (3-5 cycles) to reach their best damping, so you may notice slightly more movement than expected in the first few cycles. If excessive vibration continues past 5 cycles, verify the machine is level and all retaining pins are secure.

Troubleshooting Common Issues#

• Still vibrates: confirm all 4 retaining pins are fully seated, and check that the suspension springs at the top of the tub are all connected — a detached spring mimics worn absorbers.
• UE error continues: the issue may not be the absorbers — a cracked spider arm (the 3-arm drum support) causes wobble no absorber can compensate for, so remove the rear panel and inspect the spider arms for cracks.
• One absorber does not fit: LG occasionally changes socket geometry between model years, so verify part number 4901ER2003A matches your specific model.
• Machine walks across the floor: this is a leveling issue on top of the absorber wear — re-level all four feet and consider anti-vibration pads.

When Should You Call a Professional?#

EasyBear technicians serving Sacramento and the Bay Area carry LG-specific diagnostic tools and replacement parts on every service call. Call one if a spider-arm crack means extracting the drum (a specialized job), if a tub-bearing failure is causing vibration that mimics worn absorbers (it needs professional press tools), or if the base-frame mounting sockets are cracked or damaged and need frame repair.

Need Professional Help?#

• washing machine repair service
• lg appliance repair
• washing machine repair cost guide

Need help with this repair? Schedule a free diagnostic — same-day LG washer repair across the Bay Area.