Error Codes repair guides and troubleshooting tips.
462 articles

Bosch washer E43 is a door-lock motor fault — distinct from E27. How the motorized actuator and board relay fail, the emergency release, and cost.

i10 on a Electrolux dishwasher: a water supply error. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux dishwasher i20 is a drain error — usually a clogged triple-filter or blocked hose. Owner-fixable steps plus a $100–$250 professional range.

Electrolux dishwasher i30 is a leak/overflow trip — a base-pan float has risen on collected water. DIY checks and a $120–$350 professional range.

i50 on a Electrolux dishwasher: a drain motor error. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux dishwasher i60 is a heating error — the inline flow-through heater is not reaching setpoint. DIY signs and a $150–$400 professional range.

Electrolux dishwasher PF just means a power failure interrupted the cycle. Usually harmless — press Start to clear. DIY checks and an up-to-$90 range.

Electrolux refrigerator DF is a defrost circuit error — a failed heater or open bi-metal lets ice choke the coil. DIY signs and a $150–$400 repair range.

Electrolux refrigerator OP means a temperature sensor reads open-circuit, so the compressor never runs. Causes, DIY checks, and an $80–$200 repair range.

SH on a Electrolux refrigerator: freezer sensor shorted. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux refrigerator SY CF is a board-to-board communication failure, usually a cracked hinge harness. What it means plus a $200–$500 repair range.

SY EF on a Electrolux refrigerator: evaporator fan circuit failure. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux washer dL means the door is unable to lock — the bolt never confirmed, so the cycle cannot start. Causes, DIY checks, and a $100–$280 range.

Electrolux washer E10 is a water-fill problem — usually a closed tap or kinked hose. Easy DIY checks first, with a $50–$180 professional range if needed.

E11 on a Electrolux washer: water fill timeout. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

E13 on a Electrolux washer: water leak in the tub. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

E20 on a Electrolux washer: a drain problem. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux washer E21 is a slow-drain fault — usually a partly clogged filter or lint-fouled pump. DIY steps plus an $80–$220 professional range.

Electrolux washer E40 means the door is not closed — the board never saw the latch switch close. Easy DIY checks first, up to $100 if a part is needed.

Electrolux washer E41 is a door-lock failure — the door is shut but the lock never confirmed. Causes, DIY checks, and a $100–$250 professional range.

E50 on a Electrolux washer: a drive-motor failure. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux washer E52 is a motor signal error — the board drives the motor but gets no feedback. Often a cheap tach coil. DIY signs and a $150–$400 range.

FL on a Electrolux washer: a high-water-level fault. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux washer Ld means long drain — the tub did not empty in time, usually a clogged pump filter. DIY steps plus an $80–$250 professional range.

Electrolux washer LF means long fill — water is arriving too slowly to reach level in time. Easy DIY supply checks plus a $50–$200 professional range.

lid on a Electrolux washer: a lid-not-closed error. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

Electrolux washer oL means overloaded — the drum is packed too tightly. Almost always a free fix: remove some laundry. DIY steps and an up-to-$130 range.

Electrolux washer Sd means excess suds — usually too much detergent or non-HE soap. A free fix in most cases. DIY steps and an up-to-$130 range.

uL on a Electrolux washer: an unbalanced load. What it means, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and whether it's worth repairing.

GE dishwasher C1 is a stuck-key error, usually from steam moisture. See how to dry and reset the panel and the $120–$300 repair cost.