In one paragraph
Most dryer no-starts come down to the door switch, the supply or a thermal device that has opened — and all three can be narrowed before the cabinet comes off, which is why the diagnostic order below matters. On a Aviva dryer the order below is what makes this page worth reading — the causes are ranked for this kind of machine, not listed alphabetically.
Recognising it
- Total silence when start is pressed — No click, no hum. That points at the door switch or the supply rather than the motor.
- A click or a hum but no drum movement — The control is commanding the motor and the motor is not turning — seized motor, snapped belt or a jammed drum.
- The machine runs only while start is held — A classic start-switch or motor-centrifugal-switch symptom that disappears the moment the button is released.
- The drum turns freely by hand with no resistance — A snapped belt gives exactly this: the drum spins far too easily and the motor runs without moving it.
- NEAR MISS — it starts and stops after a minute — That is a thermal or a control abort, which belongs on the cycle-fault page rather than here.
Causes, most likely first
- Door switch not making — First, because it is the most frequent single cause and because it is a small plastic actuator that wears. A dryer will not start with a door it believes is open, and it reports nothing at all when that happens.
- Supply, plug or breaker — Second: a heating dryer draws enough current that a marginal connection fails under load, and on a split-supply machine losing one leg gives the odd symptom of a drum that turns with no heat, or a machine that will not start at all.
- Broken drive belt — Third. The tell is definitive and free: a drum that spins by hand with no resistance at all, and a motor that runs while nothing moves.
- Start switch, thermal fuse or control — Last as a group. Thermal fuses open because of restricted airflow, so this cause usually arrives with a history of poor drying rather than on its own.
The diagnostic order
- Press start and listen carefully — Silence versus a click is the single most informative observation available, and it splits the causes into two halves.
- Open and close the door firmly, then retry — A door that is closed but not latched is silent and invisible. Push it until it seats rather than swinging it.
- Turn the drum by hand — Free with no resistance means the belt. Normal drag means the belt is intact and the fault is electrical.
The owner-side checks
- Check the breaker and reseat the plug — Look for a breaker sitting midway and for scorching at the plug. On a dedicated circuit this is a two-minute check with a real hit rate.
About 10 min
- Close the door deliberately and listen for the switch — Most door switches give a faint click. Press the door against the frame while you press start to see if it makes then.
About 5 min
- Rotate the drum by hand through a full turn — Feel for drag and listen for the belt. No drag at all is a broken belt; a grinding drag is a roller or a bearing.
About 10 min
- Clear the lint path before anything else is concluded — If a thermal device has opened, the restriction that opened it is still there and will open the replacement too.
Tools: vacuumAbout 30 min
- STOP before testing the fuse, the switch or the motor — All three are inside the cabinet on the mains side of the machine.
Before you open anything
Safety
Power off at the breaker before any panel comes away, and treat the heater terminals as live until proven otherwise. A dryer fire almost always starts in accumulated lint, so the lint path is part of the safety job, not part of the cleaning job. Do not run the machine with the door switch defeated.
When this stops being a home job
Book the visit once the supply is confirmed, the door latches properly and the drum has normal drag — at that point the fault is the door switch, the thermal fuse, the start switch or the motor, and separating them means a meter inside the cabinet. Say whether you get silence or a click when you press start: it tells the technician which half of the machine to open and often decides which parts come on the van.
Related pages for this machine
Generalized information
This page is generalized across the Aviva dryer line: it covers the appliance class rather than one family or one model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit it is the better answer and it is linked from this page — check the model label before you rely on anything here. What is deliberately not on this page: wiring colours, board part numbers, torque figures and teardown order, all of which differ by family and belong on the page for that family.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
