The answer first
For the AFR series specifically, a cabinet that runs and will not get cold is most often blocked internal vents or an overloaded cabinet. This is the narrowest page this reference holds for the fault, so it carries the full order rather than narrowing one written above it. 2 of the 4 causes below can be checked without a tool; the rest need a technician.
What the machine is doing
- Food at the front is cold while food at the back is frozen — Uneven, not warm, which is a distribution problem and usually a damper or a loaded vent.
- One compartment holds and the other does not — Cold air is being made but it is not reaching everywhere, which points at airflow rather than at the sealed system.
- A sheet of frost has built on the back wall inside — Not the usual light dusting, but a slab that closes off the vent openings behind it.
- The cabinet cools better when it is nearly empty — A machine that can just manage a light load and not a full one is short of capacity rather than broken.
- NEAR MISS — the cabinet is silent, dark and completely dead — That is a power or control fault and it is a different page. Nothing below will help you.
Causes, most likely first on the AFR series
- Blocked internal vents or an overloaded cabinet — Packages pressed against the return and supply vents stop the circuit the designer intended. It is common after a big shop and it is free to fix.
- A sealed-system fault: lost refrigerant or a failing compressor — Last, and the reason the order above matters. It is the least common of these and the only one that is not owner work at any stage, so it is what remains after the rest come back clean.
- A stalled defrost cycle icing the evaporator over — The evaporator ices up, airflow across it stops, and the cabinet warms while the compressor runs on. It ranks high because it fails gradually: the ice builds for weeks before anyone notices warmth.
- A start relay or overload that will not bring the compressor up — If the compressor is not actually running, nothing downstream matters. A relay that clicks and drops out leaves a cabinet that is silent between clicks and never gets cold.
What to check first, second, third
- Check the clearance around the cabinet and the door seal all the way round — Both are free, both are common, and both are things a technician will check first anyway.
- Put a thermometer in a glass of water in the middle shelf overnight — Cabinet air temperature swings every time the door opens; water does not, so it tells you what the food is actually seeing.
- Only then consider the control and the sealed system — They are last because they are the two that cost money to be wrong about.
Before anything comes apart
Safety
Before a panel comes off, the machine comes off the supply: unplug it or switch its breaker off. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Keep the door switch and every other interlock wired as you find them: each one stops something moving while a hand is inside. If at any point a check would mean holding a part shut, propping a switch or running the machine open, stop: that is the point where this page ends.
Models in the AFR family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| AFR151SS | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR151SSOD | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR152SS | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR152SS** | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR152SSOD | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR152SSOD** | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR241SS | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR241SSOD | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR242SS | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR242SS** | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR242SSOD | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
| AFR242SSOD** | avallon:refrigerator:afr |
When to call a technician
The split is simple: what you can see, reach and clear with the machine isolated is owner work; refrigerant work of any kind, and any test that puts a meter on a live terminal is not. On this page that puts a sealed-system fault: lost refrigerant or a failing compressor on the far side of the line.
Other problems covered for the AFR series
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