Start here
The distinction that matters here is between a leak that happens only while the machine runs and one that happens whether it runs or not. A drip that appears only during the wash is a seal or a hose; a puddle that grows while the machine sits is a supply fitting. Only the supply fitting and the tub seal take this off the owner list.
Where the water shows up
- The door does not sit flush along one edge — A machine that has settled out of level, or a hinge spring that has weakened, leaves a gap at the top corner.
- The kickboard is swollen at its lower edge — A leak that has been running for some time. The damage shows before the water does on a built-in machine.
- Water only when the machine is full — Level rather than pressure. A fully loaded tub holds more water and reaches higher up the door.
- Water only during the drain stage — Points at the drain hose, its clip, or the waste connection rather than at anything in the tub.
- NEAR MISS — water inside the tub that will not go away — Standing water is a drainage fault, not a leak, and it has its own page for this family.
Causes, most likely first on this roster
- Door gasket hardened, displaced or dirty — First on this roster. The gasket is a rubber part living in a hot, wet, greasy environment, and it takes a permanent set over the years so that it no longer springs back against the door.
- Overfoaming from too much or the wrong detergent — Second and the most commonly missed. Foam has a much lower surface tension than water, so it creeps past a seal that holds water perfectly, and washing-up liquid in a dishwasher will do it every time.
- Machine not level, so the door does not close square — A built-in machine sitting on an uneven floor twists slightly in its aperture, and the door then touches the gasket on one side before the other. The gap is at the top corner and the water is at the bottom.
- Tub seal or spray arm bearing leaking — Slow, steady and hidden. This puts water into the base tray rather than onto the floor at first, which is why it tends to be found by a float switch before it is found by an owner.
- Inlet valve, supply fitting or tap leaking — Last by frequency and first by urgency. Mains water under pressure behind a built-in machine does not stop, and this is the cause that damages a kitchen rather than a cycle.
What to check first, second, third
- Lay paper towel across the floor and run a short cycle — Where the paper wets first tells you front or underneath, which is the split the rest of this page depends on.
- Note whether there is foam in the tub at the end — Foam means the detergent is the fault, not the seal. Run an empty cycle with no detergent to confirm.
- Check the supply fitting and the tap with the machine idle — Anything wet while the machine is doing nothing is mains water. Close the tap first and diagnose second.
Before you open anything
Safety
Isolate the machine first: unplug it, or switch off its breaker where there is no reachable plug. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, so isolation is the start of every job here and not a formality.
Models in the DOD family — Scope: the listings below, and nothing past the last row.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| DOD561* | asko:dishwasher:dod |
| DOD651* | asko:dishwasher:dod |
The line between a fix and a call
The owner line on this family is the kickboard. In front of it, you can work.
Other pages for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
