Start here
On these models the tub is sealed at the door by a gasket that runs round three sides, and that gasket is where this page starts. A drip that appears only during the wash is a seal or a hose; a puddle that grows while the machine sits is a supply fitting. Two of the three commonest causes need no tools and no parts at all. Part numbers are left to the table above; the text stays with the method, which is what holds.
How it presents
- The kickboard is swollen at its lower edge — A leak that has been running for some time. The damage shows before the water does on a built-in machine.
- A puddle that grows while the machine is not running — That is supply water, not wash water, and it needs the tap closed before anything else happens.
- The door does not sit flush along one edge — A machine that has settled out of level, or a hinge spring that has weakened, leaves a gap at the top corner.
- Water appears only on the longest programme — Time and temperature both increase with programme length, so a marginal seal fails on the longest one first.
- NEAR MISS — water inside the tub that will not go away — Standing water is a drainage fault, not a leak, and it has its own page for this family.
Ranked causes for these models
- Door gasket hardened, displaced or dirty — First on this roster. The gasket is a rubber part living in a hot, wet, greasy environment, and it takes a permanent set over the years so that it no longer springs back against the door.
- Drain hose clip loose, or the hose split at a bend — Water only during the drain stage, and always at the back or under the kickboard. Vibration works the clip loose over years, and the hose fatigues where it is bent tightest.
- Tub seal or spray arm bearing leaking — Slow, steady and hidden. This puts water into the base tray rather than onto the floor at first, which is why it tends to be found by a float switch before it is found by an owner.
- Inlet valve, supply fitting or tap leaking — Last by frequency and first by urgency. Mains water under pressure behind a built-in machine does not stop, and this is the cause that damages a kitchen rather than a cycle.
The diagnostic order for this family
- Lay paper towel across the floor and run a short cycle — Where the paper wets first tells you front or underneath, which is the split the rest of this page depends on.
- Inspect the door gasket along its whole length — Look for a flattened section, a tear, or grease holding it away from the door. Wipe it and try again before ordering anything.
- Put a level on the door and on the top edge of the tub — A twist here is what opens a gap at one corner, and it is corrected at the feet rather than with parts.
What to do before the panel comes off
Safety
Isolation comes before inspection here. Unplug the appliance or trip its breaker, and assume every capacitor inside is still holding what it was holding.
Models in the DBI family — The listings below are what this page covers; it is a family page, not a model page.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| DBI364* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI563****** | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI564* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI565* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI652 | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI652* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI663* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI664* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI675* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI776* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
| DBI786* | asko:dishwasher:dbi |
When this stops being owner work
Call at once for anything wet while the machine is idle — that is mains water and it has a deadline. For the rest, the owner line is the door: cleaning or replacing a gasket, correcting the detergent and levelling the machine are all owner work, and anything requiring the tub to be opened from below is not.
The rest of this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
