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Before anything is dismantled, establish whether the pump is running at all — the answer splits this page cleanly in two. A drain hose that has lost its high loop siphons the machine empty and then lets the sink's water back in. The first three checks are owner work and none of them needs a tool. One entry in the table finishes in a wildcard, which stands for a run of trim codes that behave alike here.
What you actually see
- Standing water covering the bottom of the tub — More than the film that always remains in the sump. Enough to see and enough to smell after a day.
- Water drains away very slowly over hours — A partial restriction rather than a blockage, typically in the hose or at the waste connection.
- The machine drains fully on some cycles and not others — A partial restriction that longer, hotter programmes can clear and short ones cannot.
- Water reappears in the tub hours after a cycle ends — Backflow from the waste, which means the high loop or the check valve rather than the pump.
- The drain runs but stops early — The pump losing prime against a restriction, which usually means the sump rather than the hose.
- NEAR MISS — the machine never filled in the first place — An empty tub with a stopped cycle is a fill fault, not a drain fault, and it belongs on a different page.
What it turns out to be, in order
- Filter and sump packed with debris — Top of the list. This is the last thing between the tub and the pump and it catches everything, so when it fills the water stops before the pump is ever involved.
- Foreign object round the pump impeller — Glass, a fruit sticker or a piece of wire will stop the impeller dead. The tell is a hum with no flow, which distinguishes it from an electrical failure.
- Check valve stuck — Stuck open, the tub refills from the hose; stuck closed, nothing leaves at all. Either way it is a small part with a large effect.
- Drain pump failed — Bottom of the list. Silence at the drain stage means dead or not being told to run, and separating those needs a meter rather than a torch.
Work in this sequence
- Bail out the standing water and remove the filter — It gives you access to everything else and the filter itself is the commonest answer on the page.
- Start a drain cycle and listen — A hum with no flow is a blocked impeller. Silence is electrical. That distinction decides everything that follows.
- Time how long the drain stage runs before it gives up — A short drain that stops early is losing prime; a long one that moves nothing is blocked.
- Fill the sink and release it while the machine is idle — If water enters the tub, the waste connection and the high loop are the fault and the machine is not.
Safety before diagnosis
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. If the machine is built in, isolate it at the breaker before pulling the kickboard, because the socket behind it is usually not reachable once the machine is in place and cannot be checked from the front.
Models in the DOD family — This profile generalizes over every listing in the roster below, and stops where the roster stops.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| DOD561* | asko:dishwasher:dod |
| DOD651* | asko:dishwasher:dod |
When to call a technician
Call when the filter and sump are clear, the waste connection is proven open, the hose is unkinked and the machine is still silent when it calls for drain. That combination means the pump or its supply, and both need a meter on a live machine.
Other pages for this family
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