The finding, first
A leaking dishwasher on this family sorts by where the water appears: at the front means the door, underneath means a connection, and inside the cabinet means neither. The inlet fitting and the drain hose clip are both behind the kickboard and both work loose over years of vibration. Put paper towel down and run a cycle — that single test locates most leaks on this platform. Part numbers are left to the table above; the text stays with the method, which is what holds.
Where the water shows up
- Water only during the drain stage — Points at the drain hose, its clip, or the waste connection rather than at anything in the tub.
- Water appears only on the longest programme — Time and temperature both increase with programme length, so a marginal seal fails on the longest one first.
- The kickboard is swollen at its lower edge — A leak that has been running for some time. The damage shows before the water does on a built-in machine.
- Water only when the machine is full — Level rather than pressure. A fully loaded tub holds more water and reaches higher up the door.
- NEAR MISS — water inside the tub that will not go away — Standing water is a drainage fault, not a leak, and it has its own page for this family.
The ranking for this platform
- Door gasket hardened, displaced or dirty — First on this roster. The gasket is a rubber part living in a hot, wet, greasy environment, and it takes a permanent set over the years so that it no longer springs back against the door.
- Drain hose clip loose, or the hose split at a bend — Water only during the drain stage, and always at the back or under the kickboard. Vibration works the clip loose over years, and the hose fatigues where it is bent tightest.
- Inlet valve, supply fitting or tap leaking — Last by frequency and first by urgency. Mains water under pressure behind a built-in machine does not stop, and this is the cause that damages a kitchen rather than a cycle.
- Body: Ranked for these models. A generic list treats the pump seal as a leading cause; on this roster it comes well after everything at the door.
Work in this sequence
- Lay paper towel across the floor and run a short cycle — Where the paper wets first tells you front or underneath, which is the split the rest of this page depends on.
- Wipe the gasket and the door edge, then run a short cycle — Grease holding a gasket off its seat is common, invisible and free to correct.
Safety before diagnosis
Safety
Isolate the machine first: unplug it, or switch off its breaker where there is no reachable plug. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, so isolation is the start of every job here and not a formality. Wash water in one of these machines is hot enough to scald. Do not open the door mid-cycle to look for a leak without letting the steam clear first. Anything specific to a single listing would belong on a model page; nothing below is.
Models in the D family — The listings below are what this page covers; it is a family page, not a model page.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| D5424* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5426* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5434* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5436* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5524* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5526* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5534* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5536* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5554* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5556* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5624* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5626* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5628* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5634* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5636* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5654* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5656* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5894* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5954* | asko:dishwasher:d |
| D5956* | asko:dishwasher:d |
When to call a technician
Try the detergent and the level before calling anybody: between them they explain a large share of leaks at the door. Call when a clean, intact gasket on a level machine still lets water past, because at that point the seal itself has gone and it is a part rather than a clean.
Other pages for this family
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