The short answer
1d22 is how this oven reports a problem in the temperature sensor circuit. The code table records the documented meaning, and the causes below it are ordered by how often each one is the answer. Keep using it only while the results are acceptable.
The documented code and its meaning
Reference| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| 1d22 | There may be a problem with the Oven Temperature Sensor, the Control, or the associated wiring. |
What you actually observe
- The appliance overshoots the setting and then corrects sharply — Wandering readings produce wandering control.
- The code appears once the unit is hot, not at the start — That timing is the most useful thing you can tell a technician.
- Pre-heat or warm-up takes far longer than it once did — A control that distrusts its reading waits rather than stops.
- NEAR MISS — no heat at all, ever — That is a heating-circuit or supply question and it belongs elsewhere.
Causes, most likely first on this oven
- The sensor element itself drifting out of range or going open — Resistance elements drift rather than snap, so the appliance usually cooks or dries badly for weeks before the control finally rejects the reading.
- Corrosion or slackness at the sensor plug — The plug sits in the hottest and dampest part of the run, which is why it, and not the sensor, is so often the fault.
- Chafed sensor wiring where it passes through the cavity wall — The grommet at the wall is where the covering wears, and bare copper against steel presents to the control as a short.
- The board input that reads the sensor — Genuinely uncommon: the input stage on the board outlives the sensor and its wiring by a wide margin.
Check in this order, and why
- Note whether the fault appears cold or only once the unit is hot — Cold faults and hot faults come from different halves of this circuit, so the timing is the first thing to establish.
- Get the sensor resistance read at the plug — One measurement at the plug separates the sensor from the wiring and the board in a single step.
- Have the plug at the sensor examined for corrosion and heat damage — Heat damage or green on the pins is cheap to find and cheap to fix, and it is found often.
- Keep the board as the last suspect — Everything else in the chain is cheaper and more likely, so the board waits until last.
What an owner can safely check
- Drop the breaker for a minute and bring it back — A stored fault sometimes goes; one that reappears at once is live and worth the call.
About 3 min
- Note the temperature behaviour you have seen recently — What the appliance has been doing for the past few weeks is the history worth writing down.
Tools: pen and paperAbout 5 min
- Stop before the cavity wall or the rear cover is disturbed — The sensor run is not an owner-serviceable path, and this is where the checks end.
Before anything is opened
Safety
Power off before panels off. Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. A built-in oven is normally hard-wired, so the breaker is the isolation point rather than a plug. The cavity and the door glass stay hot for a long time after a bake cycle ends. Leave the interlocking switches wired as they came. They exist to remove power at the moment it has to go.
When this stops being an owner job
A technician is the right next step as soon as the code repeats after a power-down. Everything past that point needs the panels off, and a wall oven has to be unseated from its cabinet before the rear connections are reachable. Call sooner than that if you smell burning, see scorching around the control area, or the appliance trips the breaker when it starts — any one of those is a stop-now signal rather than a wait-and-see one.
Nearest error-code pages
What this page does not cover
What is written here about 1d22 comes from the code set shared across Maytag oven model lines on one control platform. Older control generations that reuse the same characters are not covered, and neither is anything family-specific: wiring colours, connector pin numbers, torque figures and part numbers all change from family to family and are deliberately absent. A family or model page, where one exists, is the more specific answer and should be read in preference to this one — the linked code index collects them.
Other Maytag oven codes
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