The short answer
A dryer that tumbles without heat has usually tripped a thermal device because the vent was restricted, or has lost one leg of its electric supply. On gas models a weak igniter is the leading cause. Clear the duct before any part is replaced, or the new part will fail the same way.
What you see
- The drum turns normally and nothing gets warm — The standard presentation for every cause on this page.
- It heated intermittently before stopping altogether — A protective device that was cycling and has now opened.
- Electric model: the machine runs but the breaker looks fine — One pole may still be lost; check both.
- Gas model: a glow with no flame following — A weak igniter, the classic gas fault.
- Very long drying times before heat failed entirely — The duct restriction that caused it is still there.
- Not this fault: warm air but clothes still damp — That is the drying-performance page.
Ranked across both fuel types
- Thermal fuse or cut-out opened after overheating — First, and the vent restriction behind it is the real fault.
- Vent duct blocked or crushed — Second, and the cause of most of the first.
- Gas: weak igniter that cannot open the valve — First among gas-specific causes.
- Electric: heating element failed — Fourth, and often together with an opened fuse.
- Electric: one leg of the supply lost — Fifth, and it produces perfect tumbling with no heat.
- Thermostat or control not calling for heat — Last, and the least common.
Check in this order
- Clear and inspect the whole vent path first — Every other repair on this page fails again if you skip it.
- On electric, check both poles at the breaker — A lost leg imitates a failed element exactly.
- On gas, watch for a glow and then a flame — Glow without flame is the igniter verdict.
- Only then treat it as a component failure — And expect the technician to ask about the duct first.
Owner-side work
- Clean the lint filter and the whole duct run — This is both the cause and the prerequisite for any repair.
Tools: duct brush, vacuumAbout 45 min
- Check the outside vent hood opens freely — A stuck flap restricts the whole system.
Tools: torchAbout 15 min
- Switch the breaker fully off and on once, and check both poles — A two-pole breaker can drop a leg and still look normal.
About 10 min
- On a gas model, confirm other gas appliances are working — It proves the supply before anything is blamed.
About 10 min
- Run a timed cycle with the duct disconnected as a test — It tells you whether airflow is still restricted.
About 30 min
- Stop before replacing a thermal fuse or opening the burner area — A fuse replaced without clearing the cause simply opens again.
Heat, gas and lint together
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. If you smell gas: do not switch anything on or off, leave the building, and call the gas utility or your emergency number from outside. Do not look for the leak yourself. Never bridge a thermal fuse or fit a substitute part; those devices are what keep a lint-filled machine from becoming a fire.
When to call
Call once the vent is clear and the machine still will not heat, because the remaining candidates - fuses, elements, igniters, thermostats - are inside the cabinet on mains or gas connections. Tell the technician what the duct was like, because it decides whether the repair holds. Call immediately for any burning smell, and stop using the machine until it has been seen.
Other pages for this dryer
Scope
Generalized across dryer families and fuel types under this badge; where a family-specific or model-specific page exists it is the narrower answer. Not here: fuse ratings, element specifications, igniter current values, thermostat set points and duct dimension requirements.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
