Error Codes repair guides and troubleshooting tips.
462 articles

Amana Oven F2 error code — oven over-temperature detected. A senior technician explains what to check, when to call a pro, typical pricing, and how to weigh repair against a new machine.

Amana Oven F4 error code — open oven temperature sensor. A senior technician explains what to check, when to call a pro, typical pricing, and how to weigh repair against a new machine.

Amana Washer F1 E1 error code — main control board fault. A senior technician explains what to check, when to call a pro, typical pricing, and how to weigh repair against a new machine.

Amana Washer F2 E1 error code — stuck key on the control panel. A senior technician explains what to check, when to call a pro, typical pricing, and how to weigh repair against a new machine.

Amana Washer F5 E1 error code — door lock will not engage. A senior technician explains what to check, when to call a pro, typical pricing, and how to weigh repair against a new machine.

Amana Washer F6 E1 error code — communication error between control boards. A senior technician explains what to check, when to call a pro, typical pricing, and how to weigh repair against a new machine.

A1 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means heater not reaching temperature. Repair cost $180–$380, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

A2 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means thermistor reading out of range. Repair cost $160–$320, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

A3 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means heater relay stuck on the control module. Repair cost $250–$500, likely causes, and safe DIY checks.

A4 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means water temperature control fault. Repair cost $240–$480, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F1 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means water leak detected in the base. Repair cost $150–$400, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F2 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means wash pump motor fault. Repair cost $250–$500, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F3 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means water fill fault. Repair cost $150–$350, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

F9 on a Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher means overflow detected in the drawer. Repair cost $200–$450, likely causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a technician.

Frigidaire dishwasher Er is a membrane switch error, almost always damp getting into the touchpad. Dry the console out first — cost, DIY steps.

Frigidaire dishwasher i10 is a water fill timeout — the tub did not fill in time. Usually a half-closed supply valve, a kinked line, or a scaled inlet screen.

Frigidaire dishwasher iC0 is a turbidity sensor fault — the optical soil sensor reads permanent murk when its window films over. Descale and polish the lens...

Frigidaire dryer E4A is an open exhaust thermistor — the board loses its read on exhaust temperature and locks the dryer out. Why it will not start.

Frigidaire dryer E5C is a motor stall — the drive motor bogs down and stops mid-cycle. Often an overpacked drum or a belt on the shaft; sometimes a failing...

Frigidaire dryer E61 is low heating — warm but never truly hot. Usually a half-tripped breaker feeding one supply leg, sometimes a partially shorted element.

Frigidaire dryer E63 is heater over-temperature, a fire-safety trip. Almost always choked airflow; sometimes a stuck cycling thermostat. Do not use until...

Frigidaire dryer E68 is a heater relay stuck on — contacts welded closed so the element stays energized. A fire risk: unplug immediately. The main board is...

Frigidaire dryer EAF is an airflow restriction warning — the exhaust cannot escape fast enough. Almost always a clogged screen, duct, or crushed transition.

Frigidaire dryer EF0 is no heat detected. On gas, usually worn valve coils or a bad igniter; on electric, an open element; either fuel, a blown thermal fuse.

Frigidaire microwave F5 is a humidity sensor error — the steam sensor that times auto-cook modes is fouled. Cleaning the grille fixes most cases.

Frigidaire microwave SE is a stuck or shorted key — one pad the board sees jammed on. Wipe the panel and find the worn button; the touchpad assembly is the fix.

Frigidaire oven F1 is an electronic oven control failure — the control board caught a fault inside itself. Chasing the sensor or keypad is wasted effort.

Frigidaire oven F3 is an open or shorted oven sensor — the board cannot trust the probe reading. Often a cheap sensor or a bad lead or connector.

Frigidaire oven F31 is a shorted oven temperature sensor, the collapsed-low twin of the open-sensor fault — the board thinks the cavity is scorching.

Frigidaire oven F5 is a door lock mechanism failure — the control cannot confirm the self-clean door locked or unlocked. Usually the lock motor or position...