The short answer for these models
The pump is the last suspect, not the first. A hose kinked behind the cabinet, an end pushed too far into a standpipe, or a filter full of lint and coins will defeat a perfectly healthy pump and produce exactly this symptom. Where this departs from the brand-level page is the ranking. A twin-tub keeps its wash and spin functions on separate motors and separate timers, so half the machine can fail while the other half works perfectly and hides it, so on a MFC unit the function-by-function checks lead.
What you observe
- Before the list: which of the MFC forms is in front of you — Check whether spin happens in its own basket. If it does, test each half separately before concluding anything.
- The cycle finishes with the tub still full — The pump-out step ran and achieved nothing, which points at the path rather than at the timing.
- It drains very slowly, or only partly — It empties, but slowly and never completely, which is a narrowed path rather than a closed one.
- The pump runs loudly but nothing leaves — Noise without flow is the signature of an obstruction at or just after the pump.
- The spin will not start, or stops early — A refused spin is often the first sign, and it sends people looking at the motor instead of the drain.
- NEAR MISS — water on the floor rather than in the tub — That is a leak, not a drainage failure, and the page about water where it should not be covers it.
Causes, most likely first on this family
- A blockage in the standpipe, the sink trap or the house drain — Here because the evidence usually sits at the sink rather than in the machine, which is precisely why it gets missed. The ranking moves here for a reason particular to these models: how the unit is built changes what this finding means. That is what puts the function-by-function checks ahead of everything else on the list.
- An object caught between the tub and the drum — On the list because an escaped coin or underwire passes water slowly while blocking a full pump-out, and it usually rattles first.
- The drain pump or its control — It is reached by exclusion: filter clear, hose right, plumbing clear, and still nothing leaves.
Check in this order, and why
- First — look at the hose before you open anything — Trace the hose from the cabinet to wherever it ends before you open anything. Most of these are visible from outside the machine.
- Second — test the plumbing it drains into — Ruling the plumbing in or out early saves a wasted service call. On these models this is the step the construction changes: read the result against the form you identified first, because the same finding means different things on the two.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Let a hot wash cool before you drain it by hand. Water hot enough to scald comes out of the filter at the same rate as cold water and gives no warning at all.
Where the owner job ends
The owner half is the filter, the hose and its height. Beyond that — the pump, the pressure system and the wiring — is a visit. Say whether the machine tries to drain and fails, or never tries at all; the two point at different parts.
The other symptoms covered for this family
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
