Start here
Most no-drain calls on this roster end at the filter or at the waste connection, and neither needs a technician. A filter packed solid, a sump with a foreign object in it, or a waste connection that was never cleared when it was installed. Bail the tub out first; every check below is easier in an empty machine. The part numbers are deliberately left to the table, because they are the one thing that does vary here.
What is left in the machine
- Standing water covering the bottom of the tub — More than the film that always remains in the sump. Enough to see and enough to smell after a day.
- The machine hums at the end of the cycle but nothing moves — The pump is being driven and cannot turn, which usually means something is wrapped round the impeller.
- The machine drains fully on some cycles and not others — A partial restriction that longer, hotter programmes can clear and short ones cannot.
- The drain runs but stops early — The pump losing prime against a restriction, which usually means the sump rather than the hose.
- NEAR MISS — the machine never filled in the first place — An empty tub with a stopped cycle is a fill fault, not a drain fault, and it belongs on a different page.
Causes, most likely first on this roster
- Filter and sump packed with debris — First on this roster. The filter is the last line before the pump and it catches everything: labels, seeds, fragments of bone. When it fills, the water stops before it ever reaches the pump.
- Waste connection blocked, or the disposer plug never removed — Second, and it accounts for almost every machine that has never drained properly since the day it was installed. A new disposer ships with a sealed spigot, and a machine connected to it drains into a closed pipe.
- Check valve stuck — Stuck open, the tub refills from the hose; stuck closed, nothing leaves at all. Either way it is a small part with a large effect.
- Drain pump failed — Bottom of the list. Silence at the drain stage means dead or not being told to run, and separating those needs a meter rather than a torch.
Follow the water out, in this order
- Bail out the standing water and remove the filter — It gives you access to everything else and the filter itself is the commonest answer on the page.
- Reach into the sump and clear what is in it — Carefully, because glass ends up here. A foreign object against the impeller is found at this step, not later.
- Check whether water returns to the tub while the machine sits idle — Backflow means the high loop or the check valve, and it is proved by leaving the machine empty overnight.
- Time how long the drain stage runs before it gives up — A short drain that stops early is losing prime; a long one that moves nothing is blocked.
- Fill the sink and release it while the machine is idle — If water enters the tub, the waste connection and the high loop are the fault and the machine is not.
Safety before diagnosis
Safety
Before any panel comes off, take the power away at the plug or at the breaker. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, which is why the order is isolate first and open second.
Models in the DFI family — Scope: the listings below, and nothing past the last row.
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| DFI563**** | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
| DFI564* | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
| DFI565* | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
| DFI652* | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
| DFI664* | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
| DFI675* | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
| DFI776* | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
| DFI786* | asko:dishwasher:dfi |
When to call a technician
The owner line on this family is the sump. Clearing the filter, clearing the sump by hand, checking the waste connection and re-routing a hose are all yours.
Nearest pages of this class
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
