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Most new noises on the BD line come from one of three moving parts — the evaporator fan, the condenser fan, or the compressor mount — and the compartment the sound comes from usually names the part before anything is opened. The model matrix on this page lists six model numbers under this family badge. A noise that changes when the freezer door is opened is a different fault from one that does not, and that single test does most of the sorting.
What you hear, and where from
- A chirp, squeal or grind from inside the freezer — A sound that vanishes the instant the freezer door opens, because the door switch cuts the evaporator fan.
- A clicking that repeats every few minutes — A compressor start relay dropping out and retrying makes an even, repeating click with no cooling to show for it.
- A knock or thump on start and stop — One thump as the compressor starts and one as it stops is a contact point, not a failure.
- Gurgling, popping or a running-water sound — Water running into the drain pan and plastic ticking as it contracts: both normal, both louder in a quiet room.
- NEAR MISS — the noise comes with a warm cabinet — Then the noise is secondary and the cooling failure is the page you want; fix the cooling and the noise usually goes with it.
What it usually is, in order
- Start relay clicking and retrying — Ranked first on the BD line when the sound is a regular click rather than a rattle: the matrix on this page spans enough models to cross more than one production run and a relay that drops out is the one noise on this list that comes with a cooling loss behind it.
- Evaporator fan catching ice or a worn bearing — Second: the freezer-door test separates it from everything else in seconds, and it is the commonest of the non-urgent noises.
- Condenser fan or debris in the machine compartment — Third: same class of fault as the cause above but in the other compartment, and it is reached by pulling the unit out rather than by emptying the freezer.
- Mounts, levelling and tubing contact — Last: these explain a noise that has grown rather than appeared, and they are adjustments rather than repairs.
What to check first, second, third
- Listen for a regular repeating click with no compressor run — First, because it is the one noise here that comes with a cooling loss and should not be left running.
- Confirm whether the cabinet is still holding temperature — A click plus a warming cabinet changes the page you are on; a click with normal cooling is worth watching rather than acting on.
- Open the freezer and hold the door switch in — With the urgent case cleared, this separates the evaporator fan from everything else in one test.
- Move the unit, watch the condenser fan and check the feet — These are the machine-compartment and cabinet checks, and they are done in one go.
Before any panel comes off
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch it off at the breaker before working on it; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Empty the cabinet before you move it, and never break ice off a fan blade with a screwdriver — the tubing immediately behind it punctures easily and takes the sealed system with it.
Models in the BD family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| BD-150 | amana:refrigerator:bd |
| BD-150-01 | amana:refrigerator:bd |
| BD-200 | amana:refrigerator:bd |
| BD-200-01 | amana:refrigerator:bd |
| BD-255 | amana:refrigerator:bd |
| BD-255-01 | amana:refrigerator:bd |
When to call a technician
Call once the sound has been located behind the freezer rear panel, or when it tracks the compressor exactly. On the BD line an owner can level the cabinet, clear an obstruction and say which compartment the noise comes from; replacing a fan motor, a relay or a compressor mount is a service call.
Nearest pages of this class
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
