What this means on these models
A leak on the ARTX line is answered by where the water sits before it is answered by what failed. Eight model numbers carry this family badge, and the matrix on this page is the list. Water under the crispers is melt water that could not drain; water at the back with the supply live is a joint; moisture on the liner is the door.
Where the water shows up
- Water pooling under the crisper drawers — The classic blocked defrost drain: melt water backs up inside the liner instead of reaching the drain pan.
- A steady drip at the back, near the floor — Water at the rear is a supply-side or pan question, and the two are told apart by whether the drip continues with the water off.
- Water running down the inside of the door liner — Condensation from warm humid air admitted past a tired gasket, which is a sealing problem rather than a plumbing one.
- Damp or buckled flooring under the appliance — Floor damage puts a timescale on the leak: it has been happening for far longer than the puddle suggests.
- NEAR MISS — water only in the drain pan at the back — That is the system working. Melt water collecting in the pan and evaporating is normal and needs nothing.
What it usually is, in order
- Blocked or frozen defrost drain — First here because eight model numbers is enough of a span that two units with the same badge can differ in what is fitted — a drain that cannot clear is the origin of the large majority of interior water, and it is the same mechanism across the whole table below.
- Door seal admitting warm humid air — Second because a gasket that has taken a set admits humid room air continuously, and that moisture becomes both the condensation on the liner and the extra load that overwhelms the drain.
- Supply or dispenser line joint weeping — Third: clean water at the back of the unit, continuing whether or not the unit has just run, which separates it from melt water at a glance.
- Cracked or displaced drain pan — Last. It is normally found after the drain has been cleared and the water has not stopped.
What to check first, second, third
- Empty the bottom of the cabinet and find where water collects — First because the collection point names the source: under the crispers is the drain, at the back is the pan or a supply joint, on the liner is condensation.
- Take the bottom freezer basket out and look at the drain outlet — A hole that is iced over or silted shut is visible, and clearing it is the repair.
- Paper-test the door seal at several points — Third, because a leaking door is what overloads the drain, so clearing the drain without fixing the seal buys a few months at best.
- Pull the unit out and look at the pan and the supply joints — Last: it needs the appliance moved, and it is the check that matters only if the interior sources come back clean.
Safety first
Safety
Switch the appliance off at the breaker or unplug it before working on it, and dry the floor first; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never clear a frozen defrost drain with a metal probe pushed hard — the tubing behind the liner is thin. Warm water down the drain and patience do the job without turning a blockage into a hole.
Models in the ARTX family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ARTX2014T*** | amana:refrigerator:artx |
| ARTX2019S*** | amana:refrigerator:artx |
| ARTX2021T*** | amana:refrigerator:artx |
| ARTX2314T*** | amana:refrigerator:artx |
| ARTX2418T* | amana:refrigerator:artx |
| ARTX2419S** | amana:refrigerator:artx |
| ARTX2419S*** | amana:refrigerator:artx |
| ARTX3028P*** | amana:refrigerator:artx |
When to call a technician
The condition is whether the leak stops when the household water is shut off. If it does, a joint is involved and it is worth having done properly. If it does not, it is melt water, and clearing the drain and checking the gasket are reasonable owner work on these models. Damp flooring moves the whole thing to urgent regardless of the source.
Nearest pages of this class
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