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An Amana ART that makes no ice, or makes hollow and undersized cubes, is telling you about water flow and freezer temperature before it tells you about the ice maker itself. The matrix on this page is the definitive list for this family: six model numbers. Both of those are checkable from the front of the cabinet, which is why they rank above the module.
What you observe at the dispenser and the bin
- No ice at all and a full water line — The door dispenser gives water on demand while the bin stays empty, which places the fault downstream of the supply.
- Hollow, undersized or cloudy cubes — Cubes that look the right shape and weigh almost nothing, because the tray was harvested before it filled.
- Cubes fused into one solid block in the bin — A block rather than loose cubes means the bin warms between cycles, which is a temperature question, not an ice-maker one.
- The module cycles and nothing is ejected — The rake turns on schedule but the tray is empty, which puts the fault upstream at the valve or the tube.
- NEAR MISS — the whole freezer is soft and the cabinet is warm — Ice production stops long before food thaws, so a warm cabinet makes the cooling fault primary.
What it usually is, in order
- Shut-off arm, bin sensor or a jammed harvest — Ranked first on the ART line because the matrix on this page spans enough models to cross more than one production run — the mechanism stopping itself is more common than the mechanism breaking, and it is free to rule out.
- Supply line, shut-off valve or a spent filter — Second: the water has to arrive before anything else matters, and a filter past its life restricts flow long before it blocks it.
- Fill tube iced over — Third because a valve weeping slightly refreezes in the fill tube and builds a plug, which is why this fault gets worse cycle by cycle rather than arriving all at once.
- Inlet valve, module or freezer temperature — Last: the group that needs a measurement rather than a look, and the group that usually needs a technician.
What to check first, second, third
- Lift the bin out and look at the arm, the sensor and the tray — First because a stray cube under the arm, frost on the sensor or a cube jammed in the rake stops production with nothing broken.
- Dispense water at the door — This proves the supply path in one move and decides whether the search continues inside the freezer or outside the appliance.
- Check the fill tube for a plug of ice — A tube that has frozen shut explains a module that cycles and delivers nothing.
- Check the freezer temperature last — Leave the freezer temperature check until last, because a thermometer needs hours to settle and the quick checks usually finish the job first.
Before any panel comes off
Safety
Switch the appliance off at the breaker or unplug it before working on the module; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Shut the water off at the household valve first, and keep a towel under the connection — the line stays pressurised after the appliance is dead. Do not chip ice out of the tray or the rake with anything metal.
Models in the ART family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ART104TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART106TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART308FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART316TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART318FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART348FFF*** | amana:refrigerator:art |
The service-call line
Book a technician when the fill valve, the module or the freezer temperature turns out to be the answer, and book one immediately if the freezer is also failing to hold food. On the ART line the practical boundary is whether the repair breaks a water joint — if it does, it is worth having done rather than attempted.
Nearest pages of this class
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