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On the ART line the important first question about a leak is not what is broken but whether the water is clean supply water or melt water. The model matrix on this page lists six model numbers under this family badge. Melt water means the drain path; supply water means a joint, and those two lead to completely different repairs.
Symptoms on these models
- Water pooling under the crisper drawers — The classic blocked defrost drain: melt water backs up inside the liner instead of reaching the drain pan.
- Water at the front of the floor, usually after a cycle — Water appearing at the front edge of the floor some hours after the appliance has been running.
- Water running down the inside of the door liner — Moisture on the liner and shelves means the cabinet is running above its setpoint or the door is not sealing.
- Damp or buckled flooring under the appliance — Floor damage puts a timescale on the leak: it has been happening for far longer than the puddle suggests.
- NEAR MISS — water only in the drain pan at the back — A wet drain pan is the expected end of the defrost path, not a fault.
What it usually is, in order
- Door seal, alignment or a door held ajar — First on the ART line because a paper test costs nothing and because a door that does not seal produces both the condensation and the humidity load that blocks the drain in the first place.
- Blocked defrost drain — Second, and the one that explains a puddle that returns on a schedule rather than continuously.
- Supply or dispenser line joint — Third because supply water is distinguished from melt water by a single test — shut the household valve and wait — and because it moves to the front of the queue as soon as flooring is affected.
- Drain pan or the drain tube outlet — Last, and it is a look rather than a measurement — the pan is either cracked, displaced or fine.
Check in this order, and why
- Close each door on a strip of paper at several points — First because it is free, and because a door that is not sealing is both a cause of condensation and the reason drains overload.
- Check the doors close squarely and nothing fouls them — A shelf, a drawer or a bin pushing a door off its seal keeps the gasket open in a way that is easy to stop noticing.
- Clear the defrost drain behind the bottom basket — With the humidity source dealt with, this is where the water has been failing to go.
- Shut the water off and check the back of the unit — Shut the water off and check the back of the cabinet last: it needs an hour of waiting to be conclusive.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Water and a live appliance do not mix: dry the floor before working, and if water has reached a socket or an extension lead, switch the circuit off at the consumer unit before touching anything. Close the household water valve before breaking any supply joint.
Models in the ART family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| ART104TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART106TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART308FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART316TFD*0* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART318FFD* | amana:refrigerator:art |
| ART348FFF*** | amana:refrigerator:art |
When to call a technician
The condition is whether the leak survives the household water being shut off. If it does, it is melt water and the drain and the gasket are reasonable owner work on these models. If it does not, a joint is involved and it is worth having remade properly. Damp flooring makes it urgent either way.
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Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
