The short answer
A leaking Allsing dryer has a short list of possible sources, and the first job is proving which machine the water belongs to. On a dryer whose type decides the ranking: vented or condensing, gas or electric, dry the floor, run one machine at a time, and let the evidence name the source.
What you are actually seeing
- A puddle under the machine after a cycle — Timing is evidence: water that arrives with the cycle is the machine's, water that is there in the morning is usually plumbing.
- Water running out of the duct connection — Condensation in a cold or sagging run, flowing back to the lowest point.
- Wet patches at the back only — Points at a hose, a duct or the wall rather than at the drum.
- The floor is wet only when the washer has run — Then it is the washer's water, and the dryer is standing in it.
- A steam-capable machine weeping with no cycle running — An inlet valve or its connection under standing pressure.
- Not this fault: water inside the drum after a humid night — Condensation inside a cold drum happens, and it is not a leak.
Causes, most likely first on this machine
- Condensation in the duct running back to the machine — First: a long run through cold space collects water, and gravity returns it. It looks like a machine leak and it is an installation one.
- Another appliance in the same corner — Second, and worth settling early: washers, sinks and dishwashers are the usual owners of laundry-room water.
- A steam inlet valve or line, if fitted — Third: plumbed, pressurised whenever the tap is open, and capable of weeping steadily with no cycle running.
- A duct termination letting weather in — Fourth: a flap held open by lint lets rain and snow melt travel back down the duct.
- A blocked duct or condenser forcing moisture to condense inside — Fifth: the moisture the machine should have expelled has to go somewhere, and the coldest surface wins.
- The cabinet standing unlevel so water collects at one side — Last: it does not create water, but it decides where water goes and where you find it.
Check in this order, and why
- Dry the floor completely and lay paper down — You need a timeline more than you need a torch, and paper gives you one.
- Run each machine separately — The simplest experiment in the laundry room, and the one that settles most arguments.
- Check the duct or the tank and hose — Whichever the machine has. This is where a dryer's own water lives.
- Check any plumbed inlet for a steam feature — Standing pressure means a weep runs all day, which changes what the timeline means.
- Only then open the machine — By that point you should know whether the water is the machine's at all.
What an owner can safely check
- Dry everything and mark the wet area — Paper towels under the machine and against the wall, then leave the room alone for a few hours.
Tools: paper towelsAbout 15 min
- Run the dryer alone on a short cycle — No washer, no dishwasher. If the paper stays dry, you have your answer without opening anything.
About 40 min
- Check the duct for sags, cold runs and a free outside flap — Support any sag, shorten what you can, and confirm the outside flap moves freely.
Tools: screwdriverAbout 30 min
- Check the water inlet if the machine has a steam option — Dry the fitting, wrap a paper tissue round it and come back in an hour: a weep shows up on paper long before it shows on the floor.
Tools: paper tissueAbout 15 min
- Stop here if the cabinet must come apart — Water and live terminals share the space inside, and that is where owner checks end.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never work on a machine standing in water, and never assume a wet floor in a laundry room is harmless: the same floor carries the machine's supply. Shut off any plumbed inlet before touching its fitting. Do not route a vent duct into an enclosed space to stop it dripping — that moves the moisture into the building. On a gas machine, if you smell gas, leave the building and call the gas utility or the emergency services from outside.
When to call a technician
Call once the machine has been proven to be the source and the tank, hose or duct checks have not explained it, because what remains is inside the cabinet beside live terminals. Call straight away if water is reaching an outlet, a plug or the machine's own terminal block, and if a plumbed inlet is weeping under pressure — that will not improve on its own and it runs whether or not anybody is home.
Sources
Documented- 29 CFR 1910.147 — The control of hazardous energy (lockout/tagout) — osha.gov, fetched 2026-09-12
- U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission — product safety and recall notices — cpsc.gov, fetched 2026-09-12
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page is about the appliance class under this nameplate rather than one family or model. Hose routings, tank designs, steam-inlet fittings and part numbers differ by platform and belong on the model-specific page linked below where one exists. Building plumbing, duct installation and water-damage remediation are outside it.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
