The answer first
Standing water is a restriction, not a dead pump, in most cases. The ranking here starts with filter and sump blocked.
What you observe
- A few centimetres of water in the sump after every cycle — The normal picture of a restricted drain rather than a dead pump.
- The pump is audible but the level barely changes — A restriction downstream: hose, air gap or disposal.
- No pump sound at all at the end of the cycle — Points at power, a door confirmation or a jammed impeller.
- NEAR MISS — water is appearing on the floor as well — Then treat it as a leak first: the water-leak page ranks that properly.
Causes, most likely first on a Signature Kitchen Suite (SKS) dishwasher
- Filter and sump blocked — Labels, seeds, glass chips and bone fragments all end up in the sump and all of them restrict it. Ranked first on a Signature Kitchen Suite (SKS) dishwasher: the machine is built to collect debris there, so that is the first place to look for it.
- Drain pump impeller jammed or the pump failed — Glass fragments and fruit stones jam an impeller, which stops the pump without breaking it.
- Drain hose kinked, crushed or blocked — The hose runs behind the machine where it is easy to crush when the dishwasher is pushed back in.
- No high loop or air gap, so the machine siphons — This puts water in the sump that the dishwasher never failed to remove — it came back.
Check in this order, and why
- Lift the filter out and look into the sump with a torch — Wear a glove: there is broken glass in more sumps than not.
- Listen at the end of the cycle: hum with no flow, or silence? — A hum with no movement points at a jam rather than a dead motor.
- Pull the machine forward and follow the hose along its whole run — Feel for a hard, greasy section at the low point of the run.
What an owner can safely check
- Power off, lift out the filter, bail the standing water into a tray and clear the sump by hand with a glove and torch — Rinse the filter under a hot tap and refit it until it locks home before running anything.
Tools: glove, torch, shallow tray, jugAbout 25 min
- Ease the machine forward, straighten the drain hose along its whole run, and check where it passes the cabinet — Most installation kinks are at the point where the hose leaves the cabinet, and straightening it is the fix.
Tools: torchAbout 25 min
- STOP HERE if the next step needs a panel off or a meter on live terminals — That is where the owner checks end and a service call begins, whatever the ranking says.
Before you open anything
Safety
Isolate the machine at its breaker or switch before opening the sump; a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, and sump water hides broken glass. Use a glove and a torch. Shut the supply valve before touching a hose connection. Never put weight on an open door — the hinges carry the door and the rack, and the cabinet is anchored to resist exactly that.
When to call a technician
Call when the filter, the sump, the hose, the disposal and the house drain are all clear and the water is still there, because what is left is the pump or its control. Call a plumber instead if the sink backs up when the machine drains. Book the authorised service channel for anything behind a panel; on this line the diagnostic mode is the fastest route to the cause and it is not a customer-facing tool.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This is the generalised Signature Kitchen Suite (SKS) dishwasher page. A family- or model-specific page, where one exists, is linked above and is the more precise answer for your unit. Left out on purpose: part numbers, connector colours, the order panels come off in, and every torque figure — a generalised page cannot be right about any of them.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
