Samsung Washer Error Codes: Complete Troubleshooting Guide (2026)

UE — Unbalanced Load#

Common Causes

• Uneven load distribution(common) — A single heavy item like a comforter bunched on one side prevents balanced spinning.
• Single heavy item(common) — Washing one large item alone causes the drum to wobble during high-speed spin.
• Washer not level(occasional) — Uneven flooring or improperly adjusted leveling feet allow excessive drum movement.
• Worn suspension rods(rare) — After 7-10 years, suspension components wear and cannot absorb normal vibration.

DIY Fix

1. Open the door and redistribute clothes evenly around the drum.
2. Add 2-3 towels if washing a single large item to help balance.
3. Place a level on top of the washer and adjust all four leveling feet until bubble is centered.
4. Tighten lock nuts against the washer base after adjustment.

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DC — Door Open During Cycle#

Common Causes

• Door opened mid-cycle(common) — The door was physically opened or vibrated loose during operation.
• Latch not fully engaged(common) — The door appears closed but the strike did not click into the lock mechanism.
• Faulty door lock assembly(occasional) — The lock solenoid or switch fails to register a closed position.

DIY Fix

1. Close the door firmly until you hear a distinct click.
2. Check the rubber boot gasket for clothing items caught in the seal.
3. Restart the cycle with Start/Pause.

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4C — Water Supply Error#

Common Causes

• Water supply valves closed(common) — Hot or cold supply valves behind the washer are not fully open.
• Clogged inlet mesh screens(common) — Sediment and mineral buildup block the small mesh filters at the hose connections.
• Kinked inlet hoses(occasional) — The braided supply hoses are bent sharply behind the unit, restricting flow.
• Faulty inlet valve(rare) — The solenoid-operated water inlet valve fails to open when energized.

DIY Fix

1. Verify both hot and cold water valves behind the washer are fully open.
2. Turn off water and disconnect inlet hoses from the washer.
3. Remove and clean the mesh inlet screens with a toothbrush and vinegar.
4. Straighten any kinked hoses and reconnect.
5. Turn on water and check for leaks at connections.

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5C — Drain Error#

Common Causes

• Clogged drain pump filter(common) — Coins, hair ties, lint, and small objects accumulate in the debris filter at the pump.
• Kinked drain hose(common) — The corrugated drain hose is bent or crushed behind the washer.
• Drain pump blockage(occasional) — An object stuck in the pump impeller prevents rotation.
• Failed drain pump motor(rare) — The pump motor burns out after 6-8 years of use, typically making a humming noise before failure.

DIY Fix

1. Locate the drain pump filter access panel at the bottom-front of the washer.
2. Place towels and a shallow pan under the panel to catch water.
3. Slowly turn the filter cap counterclockwise to drain residual water.
4. Remove the filter and clear all debris from the filter and pump cavity.
5. Check the drain hose for kinks and ensure it is 6-8 inches into the standpipe.
6. Reinstall the filter and run a Rinse + Spin cycle to test.

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dE — Door Latch Error#

Common Causes

• Door not fully closed(common) — Clothing items caught in the rubber boot gasket prevent the door from sealing.
• Worn door latch mechanism(occasional) — The plastic strike or hook on the door wears down over years of use.
• Failed door lock assembly(occasional) — The electronic lock solenoid or microswitch fails internally.

DIY Fix

1. Open the door fully and inspect the rubber boot gasket for caught items.
2. Check the door strike for visible damage or wear.
3. Close the door firmly and listen for the click of the latch engaging.
4. Power cycle the washer if the error persists.

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HE — Water Temperature Error#

Common Causes

• Hot and cold hoses reversed(common) — The hot water hose is connected to the cold inlet and vice versa.
• Water heater set too low(occasional) — The household water heater temperature is below 120F so hot cycles cannot reach target temp.
• Failed water heater element(rare) — The internal heating element in the washer burns out, preventing water temperature control.

DIY Fix

1. Check that the hot water hose connects to the hot supply valve (usually left) and cold to cold (right).
2. Run hot water at a nearby faucet for 30 seconds to confirm hot water is available.
3. Verify the household water heater is set to at least 120F.
4. Run a warm cycle and feel the door glass after 5 minutes for warmth.

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3C — Motor / Drive Error#

Common Causes

• Hall sensor malfunction(common) — The rotor position sensor on the motor sends incorrect speed data to the control board.
• Motor failure(occasional) — The direct-drive motor or belt-drive motor burns out due to age or overloading.
• Wiring harness damage(rare) — Vibration over years causes wire connector loosening between the motor and main board.

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1C — Water Level Sensor Fault#

Common Causes

• Pressure switch failure(common) — The frequency-based water level sensor sends incorrect or no readings to the control board.
• Pressure hose disconnected(occasional) — The small-diameter air hose from the tub to the pressure switch slips off or develops a crack.
• Control board issue(rare) — The ADC circuit on the main board that reads the pressure sensor fails.

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OE — Water Overflow#

Common Causes

• Water inlet valve stuck open(common) — The solenoid valve fails in the open position, allowing water to flow continuously.
• Pressure sensor failure(occasional) — The water level sensor sends false low readings, causing the board to keep filling.
• Control board relay stuck(rare) — A relay on the main board fuses closed, continuously powering the inlet valve.

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Sud — Excessive Suds Detected#

Common Causes

• Too much detergent(common) — Using more than 2 tablespoons of HE detergent creates excessive foam that sensors detect.
• Non-HE detergent used(common) — Regular detergent produces 5-10x more suds than HE formulas, overwhelming the system.
• Detergent residue buildup(occasional) — Months of excess detergent creates a sticky film inside the drum and hoses that re-foams each cycle.

DIY Fix

1. Wait for the washer to complete its automatic suds reduction routine (it adds rinse water).
2. Switch to HE (High Efficiency) detergent immediately.
3. Use no more than 2 tablespoons of HE detergent per load.
4. Run a Tub Clean cycle monthly with no detergent to remove buildup.

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tE — Temperature Sensor Error#

Common Causes

• Thermistor failure(common) — The NTC thermistor drifts out of spec or fails open/shorted after years of thermal cycling.
• Wiring harness issue(occasional) — The connector to the thermistor vibrates loose or the wire insulation cracks.
• Main board ADC failure(rare) — The analog-to-digital converter circuit on the main board cannot read the sensor.

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bE — Button/Key Stuck#

Common Causes

• Physically stuck button(common) — Detergent residue or spilled liquid causes a button to stick in the pressed position.
• Control panel membrane failure(occasional) — The flexible membrane under the buttons develops a short circuit from moisture ingress.

DIY Fix

1. Press each button on the control panel individually to release any stuck ones.
2. Wipe the control panel with a damp cloth to remove detergent residue.
3. Power cycle the washer by unplugging for 60 seconds.

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AE — Communication Error#

Common Causes

• Signal failure between boards(common) — The serial communication link between the main board and UI board is interrupted.
• Loose wiring harness(occasional) — The multi-pin connector between boards vibrates loose over years of operation.
• Board component failure(occasional) — A capacitor or IC on either board fails, disrupting the communication protocol.

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9C1 — Voltage Error#

Common Causes

• Voltage fluctuation(common) — Household voltage drops below 100V or spikes above 132V during peak demand.
• Extension cord use(common) — Extension cords cause voltage drop under the high current draw of the washer motor.
• Overloaded circuit(occasional) — Other appliances on the same circuit reduce available power during spin cycles.

DIY Fix

1. Plug the washer directly into a wall outlet, never an extension cord.
2. Verify the outlet provides 110-120V AC with a multimeter if available.
3. Ensure no other heavy appliances share the same circuit.
4. If voltage is consistently low, contact an electrician.

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nF — Wi-Fi Connection Error#

Common Causes

• Wi-Fi signal too weak(common) — The washer is too far from the router or there is interference from other devices.
• Router settings incompatible(occasional) — Samsung washers require 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, not 5GHz. WPA2 encryption required.

DIY Fix

1. Move the router closer to the washer or add a Wi-Fi extender.
2. Ensure the router broadcasts on 2.4GHz (not 5GHz only).
3. Re-pair the washer through the SmartThings app.

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LE — Water Leak Detected#

Common Causes

• Boot gasket leak(common) — The rubber door boot gasket develops tears or holes, allowing water to drip into the base pan.
• Drain pump seal failure(occasional) — The rubber seal around the drain pump housing deteriorates and leaks.
• Tub-to-pump hose clamp loose(occasional) — The spring clamp on the hose connecting the outer tub to the drain pump loosens over time.

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PC — Clutch Position Error#

Common Causes

• Clutch assembly failure(common) — The pulsator clutch on top-load models wears out, preventing proper agitation/spin switching.
• Clutch position sensor(occasional) — The sensor that reports clutch engagement position sends incorrect data.

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Sc — Detergent Drawer Not Draining#

Common Causes

• Clogged dispenser siphon(common) — Detergent buildup blocks the siphon cap in the dispenser drawer.
• Detergent drawer not seated(common) — The drawer is not pushed in fully, preventing water from flowing through the dispenser.

DIY Fix

1. Remove the detergent drawer completely by pressing the release tab.
2. Clean all compartments and the siphon cap with warm water.
3. Clean the drawer housing inside the washer with a brush.
4. Reinstall the drawer, pushing firmly until it clicks.

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FE — Water Overflow (FE variant)#

Common Causes

• Inlet valve stuck open(common) — Mineral deposits prevent the valve from closing fully, causing continuous water flow.
• Pressure switch failure(occasional) — The water level sensor does not detect rising water levels correctly.

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cE — Abnormal Water Temperature#

Common Causes

• Hot water supply connected to cold inlet(common) — Hose connections are reversed, delivering hot water when cold is expected.
• Hot water exceeding 70C/158F(occasional) — Household water heater set too high, sending scalding water to the washer.

DIY Fix

1. Verify hot water hose goes to the hot supply (usually left tap) and cold to cold (right tap).
2. Lower the household water heater to 120F if it is set higher.
3. Run the washer on a cold cycle to verify the error clears.

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