Samsung Washer Error Codes: Complete List with Fixes

Samsung washing machines — from the front-load WF45R and WF50R series to the top-load WA50R and the Bespoke AI washers — use a network of sensors to monitor every phase of the wash cycle. When a sensor reading falls outside expected parameters, the control board halts the cycle and displays an error code. Understanding these codes is the first step toward a quick fix. This comprehensive guide covers every Samsung washer error code, what causes it, and step-by-step instructions to resolve it — including the Samsung-specific part numbers you will need.

How Samsung Washer Error Codes Work

Samsung washers monitor water level, water temperature, drum balance, motor current, door position, drain function, and power supply in real time. Error codes appear on the LED or LCD display panel as alphanumeric combinations. Samsung uses both numeric codes (4C, 5C, 1C) and letter codes (UE, dE, HE), and some codes have multiple display variants — for example, "5C" and "5E" refer to the same drain error.

Important: Write down or photograph the exact error code before attempting any fix, as some codes disappear after a power cycle.

To reset most Samsung washer error codes:

1. Press the Power button to turn off the washer.
2. Unplug from the wall outlet for 2 minutes (or flip the breaker).
3. Plug back in and run a Quick Wash or Rinse + Spin cycle to test.
4. If the error returns, use the detailed troubleshooting below.

UE / E4 / Ub — Unbalanced Load

The washer detected an unbalanced drum during the spin cycle. Samsung washers have a vibration sensor that prevents high-speed spinning with an unbalanced load to protect bearings and the suspension system.

Common causes:

• Single heavy item (comforter, jeans) bunched on one side of the drum
• Washing a single item alone without counterbalance
• Washer not level on the floor (check with a bubble level)
• Worn shock absorbers on front-load models (Samsung DC66-00470A)
• Failed suspension rods on top-load models (Samsung DC97-16350C) — use a ball-and-socket design that wears out at 4–6 years

How to fix:

1. Open the door and redistribute the laundry evenly around the drum.
2. Add towels if washing a single large item to help balance.
3. Check that all four leveling feet are firmly on the floor. Adjust feet and tighten lock nuts.
4. If UE appears on every load regardless of size, the problem is mechanical. On top-loaders, inspect the 4 suspension rods — a broken rod is the #1 cause. On front-loaders, check the 2–4 shock absorbers at the bottom of the unit.

Part cost: Suspension rod kit (DC97-16350C) $20–$40. Shock absorber pair (DC66-00470A) $20–$40. Professional repair $75–$225.

OE / E3 / OF / OC — Water Overflow

The washer detects water level above the expected threshold. The unit will attempt to drain immediately for safety.

Common causes:

• Water inlet valve stuck open, allowing water in continuously (Samsung DC62-00142G)
• Pressure switch/water level sensor misreading (Samsung DC96-01703G)
• Pressure switch hose kinked, cracked, or disconnected (Samsung DC67-00334A)
• Control board sending continuous fill signal

How to fix:

1. Immediately turn off the water supply valves behind the washer. Unplug the machine.
2. Check the water level inside the drum. On front-loaders, if water is above the door seal, drain via the emergency drain hose (small cap at the bottom-front filter panel).
3. Test the water inlet valves: turn supply back on briefly with the machine unplugged. Water flowing in with the machine off = stuck valve that must be replaced.
4. If valves are fine, check the pressure switch hose — blow gently through it. It should be clear with no water inside. A kinked or cracked hose causes false level readings.

Part cost: Water inlet valve (DC62-00142G) $25–$50. Pressure switch (DC96-01703G) $20–$40. Pressure hose (DC67-00334A) $8–$15. Professional repair $175–$350.

dE / Ed / dE1 / dE2 — Door Lock Error

The washer cannot confirm that the door is properly locked. The cycle will not start or will stop mid-cycle.

Common causes:

• Clothing or small items caught in the door gasket preventing full closure
• Door lock assembly failure — wax motor weak or solenoid burned (Samsung DC64-00519D or DC64-00519B)
• Door hinge bent from pulling door open too hard (Samsung DC61-01632A)
• Boot seal gasket torn, preventing door contact (Samsung DC64-00802C)
• dE1 = lock mechanism issue; dE2 = door switch issue (Samsung-specific sub-codes)

How to fix:

1. Open the door fully and inspect the rubber gasket for foreign objects.
2. Close firmly until you hear a distinct click from the latch engaging.
3. If the lock buzzes but does not engage, the wax motor inside the lock assembly has failed. Samsung front-load locks use a wax motor that expands when heated — it works when warm (afternoon) but fails when cold (morning). Replace the lock assembly before it fails completely.
4. Test the door lock solenoid resistance: should read 600–900 ohms.

Part cost: Door lock assembly (DC64-00519D) $25–$50. Door hinge kit (DC61-01632A) $15–$30. Boot gasket (DC64-00802C) $30–$60. Professional repair $125–$275.

4C / 4E / nF — Water Supply Error

The washer is not filling with water or is filling too slowly (should reach required level within 8 minutes).

Common causes:

• Water supply valves behind the washer not fully open
• Kinked inlet hoses (common when washer is pushed too close to the wall)
• Clogged inlet screens at the valve inlets — Sacramento and Bay Area hard water clogs these in 2–3 years
• Faulty water inlet valve (Samsung DC62-00142G)
• Low household water pressure (below 14.5 PSI)

How to fix:

1. Verify both hot and cold water valves behind the washer are fully open.
2. Disconnect inlet hoses and inspect the mesh filter screens inside each valve inlet. Clean sediment with an old toothbrush and white vinegar.
3. Check water pressure: Samsung requires 14.5–116 PSI. Hold a bucket under the hot water hose — it should fill a gallon in under 30 seconds.
4. If screens are clean and pressure is adequate, test the inlet valve: apply 120V AC to each solenoid — you should hear a click and water should flow. No click = replace the valve.

Part cost: Water inlet valve (DC62-00142G) $25–$50. Braided stainless fill hoses $15–$25/pair. Professional repair $100–$250.

5C / 5E / E2 — Drain Error

The washer cannot drain water from the drum within the allotted time.

Common causes:

• Clogged drain pump filter (the #1 cause — coins, hair ties, lint, small socks)
• Kinked or clogged drain hose
• Drain hose inserted too far into standpipe (should be 6–8 inches, not pushed all the way in)
• Failed drain pump motor (Samsung DC31-00054A)

How to fix:

1. Open the small access panel at the bottom-front of the washer. Place towels and a shallow pan underneath. Turn the filter cap counterclockwise slowly — water will drain out. Remove debris from the filter and pump cavity.
2. Check the drain hose at the back: disconnect from the standpipe and run water through it to check for blockage. Straighten any kinks.
3. If the filter is clean and hose is clear, test the drain pump: it should hum when powered during a drain cycle. If it hums but does not pump, the impeller is broken. No hum = motor failure.

Diagnostic tip: Run a spin-only cycle with an empty drum before replacing the pump. If the pump works empty but throws 5C with a load, the issue is usually a partially clogged drain hose or standpipe — not the pump itself.

Part cost: Drain pump assembly (DC31-00054A) $25–$50. Drain hose (DC97-17998A) $15–$30. Professional repair $100–$250.

HE / H1 / HC / HE1 / HE2 — Water Temperature Error

The washer detects abnormal water temperature. HE1 means water is not heating; HE2 means water is overheating — HE2 is more urgent.

Common causes:

• Hot and cold supply hoses connected to the wrong inlets (reversed)
• Water heater set too low or long pipe run to the laundry
• Internal heater element burned out (Samsung DC47-00019A) — on models with built-in heaters
• Thermistor failure giving false temperature data (Samsung DC32-00007A)
• HE2 (overheating): heater element with calcium scale buildup causing hot spots

How to fix:

1. Verify hose connections: hot (red mark) to hot inlet, cold (blue mark) to cold inlet.
2. Turn on the nearest hot water faucet and wait for hot water to arrive — should take less than 30 seconds.
3. For models with internal heaters (HE2): access the heater from the rear or bottom panel. Test with a multimeter — should read 12–25 ohms. Open circuit = burned out.
4. Test the thermistor: approximately 10 k-ohm at room temperature. Faulty readings = replace.

Part cost: Heater element (DC47-00019A) $25–$50. Thermistor (DC32-00007A) $10–$20. Professional repair $125–$300.

3C / 3E / 3E1–3E4 — Motor / Drive Error

The drive motor has failed or the control board cannot read motor position. This code has specific sub-codes that pinpoint the failure.

Common causes:

• Hall sensor/stator position sensor failure (Samsung DC31-00098A) — the #1 cause (70% of 3C codes)
• Motor overloaded with too much laundry (3E1 sub-code)
• Low motor current from wiring fault (3E2)
• Motor winding failure (Samsung DC31-00111A) — rare
• Motor control/inverter board fault (Samsung DC92-01531A, 3E4 sub-code)

How to fix:

1. Unplug, wait 2 minutes, and plug back in. Run a calibration cycle: hold Delay End + Soil Level for 3 seconds on most Samsung models.
2. Check the Hall sensor on the motor (small board with 5 thin wires at the motor rear). Test between adjacent pin pairs — should read 10–15 ohms.
3. If the Hall sensor tests good, check motor windings: each phase should read 4–8 ohms. Significantly different readings between phases indicates a shorted winding.
4. Samsung direct-drive washer motors rarely fail outright. Always diagnose the sub-code before quoting motor replacement.

Part cost: Hall sensor (DC31-00098A) $10–$25. Motor (DC31-00111A) $60–$120. Inverter board (DC92-01531A) $80–$150. Professional repair $200–$450.

1C / 1E / LC / LC1 — Water Level Sensor Fault

The pressure switch that measures water level is sending incorrect or no signal.

Common causes:

• Pressure switch hose disconnected, kinked, or clogged (Samsung DC67-00334A)
• Pressure switch/frequency sensor failure (Samsung DC96-01703G)
• Sediment and soap residue blocking the hose at the tub connection
• Samsung newer models use a frequency-based sensor that fails with an open circuit

How to fix:

1. Locate the pressure switch hose — a thin tube running from the tub bottom to the pressure switch near the top of the machine.
2. Check for disconnections, cracks, or kinks. Blow gently through the hose — you should hear a click from the switch.
3. If clogged at the tub connection, clean with warm water.
4. Test the pressure switch: blow into the hose while measuring continuity across the switch contacts — should click and change state.

Part cost: Pressure switch (DC96-01703G) $20–$40. Pressure hose (DC67-00334A) $8–$15. Professional repair $150–$300.

Sud / 5Ud / Sd — Excessive Suds

Too many suds detected in the drum. The washer pauses to let suds dissipate.

Common causes:

• Non-HE detergent used (regular detergent causes excessive foaming)
• Too much HE detergent (2 tablespoons per regular load is typically sufficient)
• Detergent dispenser clogged with dried detergent creating a suds burst during rinse
• Pressure switch misreading water level, concentrating soap

How to fix:

1. Wait 15–20 minutes. The washer will repeatedly drain and add small water amounts to reduce suds.
2. Switch to HE (High Efficiency) detergent and measure carefully.
3. Clean the detergent dispenser drawer — pull it out, disassemble inserts, and scrub off dried detergent.
4. Run an empty hot water cycle with no detergent (add 2 cups white vinegar) to flush soap residue.

Part cost: $0 — this is a detergent usage issue.

tE / tE1 / tE2 / tE3 / EC — Temperature Sensor Error

The thermistor is reading an abnormal value. Samsung washer thermistors are NTC (negative temperature coefficient) — resistance decreases as temperature rises.

Common causes:

• Thermistor failure (Samsung DC32-00007A) — open or shorted
• Disconnected wire harness to the thermistor
• tE1 = washer thermistor open; tE2 = heater thermistor; tE3 = duct sensor (steam models)

How to fix:

1. Access the thermistor (mounted in the outer tub near the heater on front-loaders, or at the tub base on top-loaders).
2. Test with a multimeter: at room temperature (77 degrees F) should read approximately 10–12 k-ohm. A reading of 50+ k-ohm means the sensor is going open and will fail soon.
3. Replace the thermistor (DC32-00007A) if out of range — it clips into a rubber grommet on the tub and takes 15 minutes.

Part cost: Thermistor (DC32-00007A) $10–$20. Professional repair $125–$275.

bE / bE1–bE3 / 12E / 14E / 18E — Button Stuck Error

The control panel detects a continuously pressed button. The numeric sub-codes identify which button zone: 12E = Power, 14E = Temp, 18E = Option.

Common causes:

• Button physically stuck from detergent residue
• Touchpad membrane failure from moisture or heat
• Capacitive touch panel generating phantom presses from electrical noise

How to fix:

1. Press every button individually. Feel for any that do not spring back.
2. Clean the panel surface with a damp (not wet) cloth.
3. Unplug for 10 minutes to fully discharge capacitors.
4. If the error persists, the membrane keypad or control board needs replacement.

Part cost: Control panel/touchpad assembly $50–$100 (model-specific). Control board (DC92-01531A) $80–$150. Professional repair $125–$300.

AE — Communication Error

Signal failure between the main control board and the sub/inverter board.

Common causes:

• Electromagnetic interference or power spike
• Corroded board connectors from moisture (common in garage installations)
• Main control board failure (Samsung DC92-01531A)

How to fix:

1. Unplug for 5 minutes — AE from transient power spikes may clear.
2. Access the main board area and reseat all inter-board wiring connectors.
3. Check for water damage or corrosion on board connectors.
4. If connections are clean and the code persists, replace the main board.

Part cost: Main control board (DC92-01531A) $80–$150. Sub/inverter board (DC92-01585A) $60–$120. Professional repair $200–$400.

DC / dC / dC1 / dC3 — Door Opened During Cycle

The door was detected open during a running cycle. DC is timing-related (opened mid-cycle), unlike dE which is a lock failure at cycle start.

Common causes:

• Door physically opened or bumped during operation
• AddWash mini-door opened during spin cycle (dC3 on models with AddWash feature)
• Door strike plate bent causing intermittent unlatch (Samsung DC66-00326A)

How to fix:

1. Close the door firmly until you hear the latch click.
2. If dC3: close the AddWash door and resume.
3. Check the door strike plate — pulling the door open too forcefully warps it.

Part cost: Door lock assembly (DC64-00519D) $25–$50 if latch is broken. Door strike (DC66-00326A) $10–$20.

9C1 / 9C2 — Voltage Error

The power supply voltage is outside the acceptable range. 9C1 = overvoltage; 9C2 = undervoltage.

Common causes:

• Extension cord or power strip causing voltage drop
• Overloaded circuit shared with other appliances
• Samsung washers require 110–120V AC; above 132V or below 99V triggers the code

How to fix:

1. Measure outlet voltage with a multimeter.
2. Plug directly into a grounded wall outlet — never use extension cords.
3. Ensure the washer is on a dedicated 15A or 20A circuit.

Part cost: Typically no parts needed. Surge protector or voltage regulator optional.

Samsung Washer Diagnostic Mode

Samsung washers offer several diagnostic methods:

1. SmartThings App Diagnosis (Wi-Fi models): Open the SmartThings app, select your washer, and tap Device Care > Self Check. The app communicates with the washer to pull error logs and sensor data.

2. Calibration Mode: Press and hold Delay End + Soil Level (or Temp + Delay End on some models) for 3 seconds with the drum empty and door closed. The washer runs a calibration cycle that resets motor parameters — essential after moving the washer or replacing shock absorbers.

3. Manual Diagnostic Mode: Power on the washer. Press and hold Soil Level + Delay End + Power simultaneously for 3 seconds. The washer cycles through motor, fill, drain, and spin tests.

4. Error Code History: In diagnostic mode, the display cycles through the last 5 stored error codes — useful for diagnosing intermittent issues that appear and disappear.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I reset my Samsung washer after an error code? A: The standard reset: Power off, unplug for 2 minutes, plug back in, run a short cycle. For persistent errors, try holding Start/Pause for 5 seconds, then power off and unplug. Most codes clear after the underlying issue is resolved and a successful cycle completes.

Q: Why does my Samsung washer keep showing 5C even after I cleaned the filter? A: If 5C persists after cleaning the drain pump filter, check the drain hose for partial clogs and verify the standpipe connection (6–8 inches deep, not pushed all the way in). If the hose is clear, the drain pump motor (DC31-00054A) likely needs replacement — Samsung drain pumps last 5–8 years typically.

Q: Can I use regular detergent in my Samsung front-load washer? A: No. Samsung front-load washers require HE (High Efficiency) detergent, which produces fewer suds. Regular detergent causes excessive foaming that triggers the Sud code, reduces cleaning performance, and damages the pressure sensor over time. Use only HE detergent and measure carefully — most people use 2–3 times more than needed.

Q: Are Samsung washer parts covered by warranty? A: Samsung provides a 1-year full parts and labor warranty and a 3-year limited warranty on the stainless steel tub and the digital inverter motor (DD — Direct Drive models, parts only). Keep your purchase receipt for warranty claims.

Q: My Samsung washer vibrates excessively during spin but shows no error code. Should I worry? A: Excessive vibration without a UE code means the washer is approaching the imbalance threshold but not exceeding it. Check that the unit is perfectly level, the shipping bolts have been removed (common oversight on new installations), and the shock absorbers or suspension rods are intact. Unchecked vibration accelerates wear on bearings and shocks.

When to Call a Professional

Some Samsung washer error codes require professional service:

• 3C with a seized drum — May indicate bearing failure requiring special tools and significant disassembly. Professional bearing replacement costs $250–$450.
• AE (communication error) — Board diagnosis and replacement requires electronic expertise.
• OE with stuck inlet valve — A stuck-open valve is a flood risk. Professional replacement includes testing and flood-stop valve installation.
• Repeated codes after DIY fix — If an error returns after addressing the obvious cause, a secondary failure needs professional diagnosis.
• Any burning smell or visible sparking — Turn off and unplug immediately. Do not attempt DIY repair on electrical faults.
• 1C with normal pressure switch — May indicate a control board issue requiring board-level diagnosis.

A professional technician can access Samsung service mode to read detailed sensor data, error history, and motor parameters not available through the consumer SmartThings app.

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