Samsung Dishwasher Error Codes: Complete List with Fixes

Samsung dishwashers — from the StormWash and Linear Wash series to the AutoRelease Door and Waterwall models — combine advanced wash technology with sensor-driven diagnostics. When a problem occurs, the control panel displays an error code that pinpoints the issue. This guide covers every Samsung dishwasher error code with detailed causes, step-by-step fixes, and the Samsung-specific part numbers you will need.

How Samsung Dishwasher Error Codes Work

Samsung dishwashers monitor water level, water temperature, drain function, motor current, leak detection, and door position throughout every cycle. When a sensor reading falls outside the expected range, the control board halts the cycle and displays a code on the front panel LED.

Important: Samsung dishwasher codes use numbers and letters that can look similar on the LED — "1E" and "IE" are the same code, and "5C" and "5E" refer to the same drain error. Always check both the letter and number interpretation.

To reset a Samsung dishwasher error code:

1. Press and hold the Start/Reset button for 3 seconds.
2. If the code persists, turn off the breaker for 5 minutes, then restore power.
3. Run a short rinse cycle to test.

1E / IE — Water Level Sensor / Clogged Filter

The dishwasher cannot establish the correct water level, typically because the filter is clogged or the water level float is stuck.

Common causes:

• Clogged fine mesh filter at the tub bottom (the #1 cause — food debris accumulation)
• Water level float stuck by debris (Samsung DD81-02176A)
• Turbidity sensor or pressure switch fault
• Construction debris after kitchen renovation (plaster, sawdust)

How to fix:

1. Remove the bottom rack. Turn the cylindrical filter assembly counterclockwise and remove. Clean all food debris from both the fine mesh filter and coarse filter.
2. Sponge-clean the filter well area. Check for broken glass or hard debris blocking the drain path.
3. Find the water level float — a small plastic dome near the front-left of the tub floor. Lift it up and down; it should move freely. Clean any debris underneath.
4. Run a vinegar rinse cycle (2 cups white vinegar on the top rack, empty machine, hot cycle) to clear residue from sensors.

Part cost: Fine mesh filter assembly (DD82-01542A) $15–$30 if damaged. Water level float (DD81-02176A) $10–$20. Professional repair $100–$225.

3C / 3E — Pump Motor Error

The wash pump or drain pump motor has failed or is jammed.

Common causes:

• Pump impeller jammed by broken glass, bones, or hard debris
• Wash pump motor winding burned out (Samsung DD31-00016A)
• Drain pump failure (Samsung DD31-00005A)
• Pump motor wiring harness corroded from the humid dishwasher environment

How to fix:

1. Remove the filter assembly and look into the sump area with a flashlight for debris jamming the impeller.
2. If the sump is clear, access the pump assembly by removing the lower kick plate and base plate beneath the tub.
3. Test wash pump motor for continuity — should read 5–20 ohms. Open reading confirms burned winding.
4. Listen carefully when running a cycle: humming but no water movement = seized wash pump. Wash works but water stays = drain pump failure. The 3C code does not distinguish between them.

Part cost: Wash pump motor (DD31-00016A) $80–$150. Drain pump (DD31-00005A) $40–$80. Professional repair $200–$400.

4C / 4E — Water Supply Error

The dishwasher is not filling with water within the expected time.

Common causes:

• Water supply valve under the sink closed or partially closed
• Kinked water supply line behind the dishwasher
• Calcified inlet valve screen (extremely common with Sacramento and Bay Area hard water)
• Electric water inlet valve stuck closed (Samsung DD62-00067A)

How to fix:

1. Check that the water supply valve under the kitchen sink is fully open (the valve closest to the dishwasher).
2. Inspect the supply line for kinks — pull the dishwasher out slightly to check.
3. Clean the inlet valve filter screen: disconnect the supply line at the dishwasher inlet valve and check the mesh screen inside. Soak in white vinegar or CLR for 30 minutes to dissolve mineral buildup.
4. Test the inlet valve: with a fill cycle running, check for 120V AC at the valve terminals. Voltage present but no water flow means the valve is stuck and needs replacement.

Part cost: Water inlet valve (DD62-00067A) $25–$50. Inlet screen: free to clean. Professional repair $100–$225.

5C / 5E — Drain Error

Water is not draining from the tub after the cycle completes.

Common causes:

• Clogged filter assembly (most common cause by far)
• Kinked drain hose under the sink
• Garbage disposal knockout plug not removed (very common after new disposal installation)
• Drain pump failure (Samsung DD31-00005A)
• Missing high drain loop or air gap, causing backflow from sink

How to fix:

1. Remove and clean the filter assembly at the tub bottom.
2. Under the sink, check the drain hose: verify no kinks, and confirm it connects to either the disposal knockout or a high-loop on the drain pipe.
3. If you recently installed a garbage disposal, check that the knockout plug was removed from the disposal inlet — a forgotten knockout is the most common cause of 5C after new disposal work.
4. Bail out remaining water and run a drain-only cycle. No pump noise means the drain pump (DD31-00005A) may need replacement.

Diagnostic tip: Samsung dishwashers require a high drain loop or air gap to prevent backflow. If 5C appears after a sink backup, drain water siphoned back into the machine.

Part cost: Drain pump (DD31-00005A) $40–$80. Drain hose with check valve (DD67-00070A) $15–$30. Professional repair $100–$250.

7E — Waterwall Reflector Error

The Waterwall deflector plate mechanism is jammed or its motor has failed. This code only exists on Samsung Waterwall dishwasher models.

Common causes:

• Utensils, food debris, or broken dish fragments jammed in the reflector track
• Linear motor driving the reflector plate has failed (Samsung DD94-01006A)
• Hall effect position sensor fault (Samsung DD81-02372A)
• Reflector plate cracked (Samsung DD82-01589A)

How to fix:

1. Open the dishwasher and check the reflector plate at the tub bottom. Push it by hand — it should slide freely along its track.
2. Look for utensils or debris that fell onto the track and remove them.
3. If the reflector moves freely but does not operate during cycles, the linear motor needs replacement. Access it from below the tub by removing the base plate.
4. Check the Hall sensor that reports reflector position — a failed sensor triggers the same 7E code.

Important: If your model does not have the Waterwall feature (no visible moving reflector plate at the tub bottom), a 7E display indicates a control board fault, not a Waterwall issue.

Part cost: Waterwall motor (DD94-01006A) $60–$100. Reflector plate (DD82-01589A) $30–$50. Hall sensor (DD81-02372A) $15–$25. Professional repair $175–$350.

HE / HC — Heater Error

The dishwasher water heater is not reaching the target temperature during the wash or sanitize cycle.

Common causes:

• Heating element burned out (Samsung DD81-02132A) — visible crack or blister near the center of the loop
• Thermistor/temperature sensor failure (Samsung DD32-00010A)
• Heater wiring chafed in the tight space near the sump
• Sump gasket leak dripping onto heater connections

How to fix:

1. Run a normal cycle and carefully open the door mid-cycle to feel water temperature — it should be 120–140 degrees F during the main wash.
2. Access the heating element from below the tub. Test with a multimeter: should read 15–30 ohms. Open reading means the element is burned out.
3. Visually inspect the element through the tub bottom with a flashlight — a physical crack is definitive.
4. Test the thermistor: approximately 10–15 k-ohm at room temperature. A failed thermistor prevents the board from activating the heater.

Part cost: Heating element (DD81-02132A) $40–$80. Thermistor (DD32-00010A) $10–$20. Professional repair $175–$375.

LC / LE — Leak Detected / Water in Base

The leak sensor float switch in the base pan has detected water.

Common causes:

• Door gasket tear or food debris preventing seal (Samsung DD62-00057A)
• Sump gasket leak at the pump-to-tub joint (Samsung DD63-00100A)
• Spray arm connection loose (hand-tighten)
• Hose clamp failure on drain or fill lines
• Condensation from dormant sump after weeks of non-use

How to fix:

1. Pull the dishwasher out and remove the base plate. Check for water and mop it up.
2. Locate the leak source. Common spots: door gasket (especially bottom corners), spray arm connections, sump gasket, hose clamps.
3. Run a short cycle and watch from below for where water first appears. Use paper towels at suspected leak points.
4. If LC appeared after first use in weeks, condensation may have triggered the float. Mop up, run a cycle, and see if it recurs.

Part cost: Door gasket (DD62-00057A) $20–$40. Sump gasket (DD63-00100A) $15–$25. Float switch (DD81-01975A) $10–$20. Professional repair $150–$350.

OC / OE — Overflow Error

The dishwasher detects water level above the safe threshold. This is a plumbing emergency if the inlet valve is stuck open.

Common causes:

• Water inlet valve stuck open (Samsung DD62-00067A) — floods the kitchen if not caught
• Float switch / water level sensor misreading (Samsung DD81-01975A)
• Control board fault sending continuous fill signal (Samsung DD82-01139A)

How to fix:

1. Turn off the water supply immediately. Unplug the machine.
2. Do not open the door fully if water is above the sill — siphon excess water first.
3. Test the inlet valve: turn the supply on briefly with the machine unplugged. Water entering on its own = stuck valve. Replace immediately.
4. If the valve is fine, check the float switch (see 1E section) and pressure sensor.

Diagnostic tip: A stuck-open inlet valve can flood a kitchen in minutes. Recommend installing an automatic shutoff valve ($40–$60) on the dishwasher supply.

Part cost: Water inlet valve (DD62-00067A) $25–$50. Float switch (DD81-01975A) $10–$20. Control board (DD82-01139A) $100–$200. Professional repair $175–$375.

tE — Temperature Sensor Error

The thermistor in the sump area is sending incorrect readings or has an intermittent connection.

Common causes:

• Thermistor failure (Samsung DD32-00010A)
• Loose connector — vibration from the wash pump jiggles it loose over time
• Main control board temperature sensing circuit fault
• Corroded connector pins from the humid dishwasher environment

How to fix:

1. Access the thermistor from below the tub by removing the base plate. It is mounted in the sump area near the heater.
2. Disconnect and test: at 77 degrees F should read approximately 10–15 k-ohm.
3. Inspect the wiring connector for corrosion — apply dielectric grease on the pins and secure the harness with a zip tie.
4. If the sensor tests normal and the connector is clean, the control board temperature circuit may be faulty.

Diagnostic tip: Intermittent tE codes (sometimes runs fine, sometimes fails) almost always indicate a loose connector rather than a failed thermistor. Secure the connection before replacing parts.

Part cost: Thermistor (DD32-00010A) $10–$20. Main control board (DD82-01139A) $100–$200. Professional repair $125–$300.

Samsung Dishwasher Diagnostic Mode

Samsung dishwashers offer several diagnostic methods:

1. SmartThings App Diagnosis: For Wi-Fi models, open SmartThings, select your dishwasher, and tap Device Care > Self Check. The app communicates with the unit and reports sensor status, error history, and cycle statistics.

2. Drain Test Mode: Press and hold the Start/Reset button for 3 seconds. On some models, press and hold Hi-Temp Wash + Sanitize for 3 seconds. The dishwasher runs the drain pump for 2 minutes — useful for testing 5C drain codes.

3. Self-Clean / Filter Clean Mode: Run the Self Clean cycle (consult your model manual for the button combination) to clear sensor residue and validate that all wash, fill, heat, and drain functions operate correctly.

4. Error History: On some Samsung models, enter diagnostic mode by pressing Normal + Delicate + Express 60 in sequence within 3 seconds. The display cycles through the last 5 stored error codes.

5. Leak Sensor Test: After removing the base plate, press the float switch down manually while in diagnostic mode. The control board should register the float change on the display or through an audible beep.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why does my Samsung dishwasher smell bad even after cleaning the filter? A: The odor usually comes from food debris trapped in the drain hose or the sump area below the filter well. Run an empty hot cycle with 2 cups of white vinegar placed in a dishwasher-safe cup on the top rack. Also check the drain hose connection under the sink — a missing high loop allows sewer gas to flow back into the dishwasher.

Q: What is the Samsung Waterwall feature, and can I get a 7E code on a non-Waterwall model? A: The Waterwall is a moving deflector plate at the tub bottom that sweeps water back and forth for more thorough coverage. The 7E code specifically relates to this mechanism. If your model does not have a Waterwall (no visible moving plate at the tub bottom), a 7E display on your unit indicates a control board communication issue, not a Waterwall fault.

Q: My Samsung dishwasher shows LC but I cannot find any water leak. What gives? A: The leak sensor float switch can be triggered by condensation, especially if the dishwasher has not been used for several weeks. The dormant sump area collects moisture that pools in the base pan. Mop up the water, run a short cycle, and monitor. If it recurs, there is a genuine slow leak that only shows during operation.

Q: Should I use rinse aid with my Samsung dishwasher? A: Yes. Samsung dishwashers are designed to use rinse aid during the final rinse cycle. Without it, you will see water spots and film on glassware, and the drying performance drops significantly. Fill the rinse aid dispenser monthly and adjust the dosage dial if spots persist.

Q: Can I use regular dish soap in my Samsung dishwasher? A: Absolutely not. Hand-wash dish soap creates massive suds that overflow from the dishwasher onto your kitchen floor and can damage the pump seals and control board. Use only dishwasher-specific detergent pods, powder, or gel. If you accidentally used dish soap, run several rinse cycles until all suds are gone.

When to Call a Professional

Certain Samsung dishwasher issues require professional service:

• 3C (pump motor) — Wash pump and drain pump replacement requires significant disassembly and correct part matching.
• LC with active dripping — Finding the leak source in the tight space under a dishwasher often requires pulling the unit completely out and running it in a test position.
• OC with stuck inlet valve — A stuck-open valve is a flood risk. Professional replacement includes testing the new valve and installing a shutoff safety.
• 7E on Waterwall models — The linear motor and Hall sensor are in a difficult-to-access location below the tub.
• HE after element replacement — If a new element still triggers HE, the control board relay driving the heater may be welded shut.
• Multiple codes in sequence — Multiple different codes appearing one after another usually indicate a main control board failure rather than individual component failures.

Frustrated with Samsung dishwasher error codes? EasyBear's certified technicians service all Samsung dishwasher models — StormWash, Linear Wash, Waterwall, and Bespoke. We offer free diagnostic visits and arrive stocked with common Samsung dishwasher parts. Our tech diagnoses the issue, explains your options, and completes most repairs the same day. Every repair includes a 90-day parts and labor warranty. Schedule your free diagnosis today.