The short answer
These machines are built to tolerances tight enough that a noise which would be inaudible elsewhere is obvious here — so the first job is separating the load from the machine. Ranked first on this platform: An out-of-balance load. The checks below follow that ranking, and the first of them need no tools and no panel removed.
What you observe
- Thumping only on the spin, and only on some loads — A noise that depends on what is in the drum belongs to what is in the drum.
- A metallic scraping or tinkling that follows the drum — A metallic noise turning with the drum is a foreign object.
- A rumble that rises and falls exactly with the spin speed — A noise tracking drum speed rather than motor speed is the drum bearing.
- NEAR MISS — a rattle from something in a pocket — Coins and keys in the drum, the filter or the door seal account for a surprising share of new noises.
Causes, most likely first on this platform
- An out-of-balance load — One heavy item, or a load that has balled up on one side, makes the drum run eccentric. It ranks first on this platform because an unevenly loaded drum makes the machine run eccentric on the spin, and on a machine this well damped the owner notices the thump precisely because everything else about it is quiet.
- Something in the pump or the drum outer — Coins, underwires and buttons pass the drum holes and end up between the inner and outer drums or in the pump. It ranks second here because the machine expects the owner to open a plinth flap and service a filter and a foreign-object trap on a schedule, and on most machines that has never been done.
- A worn drum bearing — The bearing carries the drum shaft and it wears slowly. The noise starts as a hum on the spin, becomes a rumble that rises and falls with the drum speed, and ends as a roar. Ranked third: worth checking once the causes above have come back clean.
- Worn suspension dampers or springs — The tub hangs on springs and is damped so it can move without hitting the cabinet. Ranked fourth: worth checking once the causes above have come back clean.
Check in this order, and why
- Stop the machine, redistribute the load by hand and restart the spin — One minute, and it eliminates the most common cause. It leads because it tests the top-ranked cause.
- Turn the drum slowly by hand with the machine off and listen — It is the only check that catches something between the drums. Tests the second-ranked cause.
- Turn the drum by hand and feel for roughness or play at the back — Roughness or up-and-down play locates it without dismantling. Tests the third-ranked cause.
What an owner can safely check
- Open the door, spread the load evenly round the drum and restart the spin — Wash single heavy items with a few lighter ones for company.
About 15 min
- Open the drain filter behind the front plinth and check what is in it — Towels down first: there will be water.
Tools: cloth, shallow trayAbout 20 min
- STOP here if the next step needs a meter on live terminals or a sealed panel off — That is where an owner check ends. Write down what each check showed and hand it to the technician.
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the machine or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, and close both water valves before disturbing any hose.
When to call a technician
Call when the noise is a rumble or a grinding that appears on the spin and rises with the drum speed, because that is a bearing or a suspension component and both are strip-downs.
Nearest pages of this class
What this page does not cover
This page is written for the Miele washer as a class, not for one family or one model line. Where a family- or model-specific page exists for your unit, that page is the more specific answer and the one to read first. Deliberately not here: part numbers, wiring colours and disassembly order, which differ by family.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
