Maytag Washer Error Codes: Complete F/E Code Guide (2024-2026)

F0E1 — Items detected in drum during Clean Washer cycle#

Common Causes

• Clothes or rags left in the drum(common) — The Clean Washer cycle requires an empty tub. Any items trigger this code to prevent damage from high-temperature sanitizing.
• Small items trapped behind drum baffles(occasional) — Socks or small garments wedged behind the drum paddles can still trigger the load sensor.

DIY Fix

1. Pause the cycle and open the door/lid.
2. Remove all items from the drum, checking behind the baffles.
3. Close the door/lid and restart the Clean Washer cycle.

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F0E2 — Overload detected — drum weight exceeds capacity#

Common Causes

• Too many items loaded(common) — Maytag washers use motor current sensing to detect overloading. Exceeding the weight limit strains the motor and transmission.
• Heavy water-absorbent items (comforter, rugs)(occasional) — Large water-absorbent items can exceed weight limits even when the dry load seems manageable.

DIY Fix

1. Pause the cycle and open the door/lid.
2. Remove roughly one-third of the load.
3. Restart the cycle with a lighter load.
4. Wash the removed items in a second load.

Professional Repair

F0E5 — Load imbalance detected during spin cycle#

Common Causes

• Uneven load distribution(common) — A single heavy item or bunched-up clothes create excessive vibration during high-speed spin.
• Washer not level(occasional) — An unlevel machine amplifies normal load imbalance. All four feet must be firm and level.
• Worn suspension rods (top-load) or shock absorbers (front-load)(rare) — After 8-10 years, suspension components wear out and cannot dampen normal spin vibrations.

DIY Fix

1. Open the door/lid and redistribute clothes evenly around the drum.
2. Add a few towels if washing a single heavy item.
3. Check that the washer is level using a bubble level on top.
4. Adjust the leveling feet if needed.

Professional Repair

F1E1 — Motor control board (MCU) failure#

Common Causes

• MCU component failure(common) — The motor control unit regulates motor speed and direction. Internal MOSFET or relay failure prevents motor operation.
• Power surge damage(occasional) — Voltage spikes damage MCU components. Maytag washers without surge protection are particularly vulnerable.

Professional Repair

F1E2 — Drive motor failure#

Common Causes

• Motor winding failure(common) — Internal winding damage from chronic overloading or age prevents the motor from running.
• Motor bearing seizure(occasional) — Water intrusion into the motor housing corrodes bearings, causing the motor to seize.

Professional Repair

F5E1 — Door switch not detecting door closure#

Common Causes

• Door switch mechanical failure(common) — The micro-switch wears out after thousands of cycles and no longer detects the door striker.
• Misaligned door striker(occasional) — Door hinge wear causes the striker to miss the switch contact point.

Professional Repair

F5E2 — Door lock mechanism cannot engage#

Common Causes

• Door lock actuator burnout(common) — The bi-metal actuator or solenoid inside the lock assembly burns out, preventing lock engagement.
• Foreign object in door gasket(occasional) — Items caught in the door boot gasket prevent the door from closing flush for lock engagement.

Professional Repair

F5E3 — Lid lock error — lock cannot engage or verify (top-load models)#

Common Causes

• Lid lock mechanism failure(common) — The lid lock actuator motor or verification switch has failed. This is the most common Maytag Bravos and Centennial error code. Identical to the Whirlpool F5E3 issue.
• Lid alignment issue(occasional) — The lid striker no longer aligns with the lock slot due to hinge wear.
• Control board lid lock relay failure(rare) — The relay on the main board that powers the lid lock has burned out.

Professional Repair

F7E1 — Motor speed sensing circuit failure#

Common Causes

• Rotor position sensor (RPS) failure(common) — The Hall effect sensor on the motor stator that tracks rotor position has failed, preventing speed control.
• Sensor wiring damage(occasional) — The sensor signal wire can break from vibration-induced chafing.

Professional Repair

F8E1 — Long fill — washer not filling with water within the time limit#

Common Causes

• Water supply valves not fully open(common) — Both hot and cold supply valves behind the washer must be fully open.
• Clogged inlet screen filters(common) — Hard water sediment clogs the mesh screens. Very common in the Sacramento and Bay Area where water hardness is 150-300 ppm.
• Kinked inlet hoses(occasional) — Pushing the washer against the wall kinks the supply hoses.
• Water inlet valve failure(rare) — The solenoid valve fails to open. Typical lifespan is 10-15 years.

DIY Fix

1. Turn off both water supply valves behind the washer.
2. Disconnect the inlet hoses from the back of the washer (have a bucket ready).
3. Inspect and clean the mesh screens at the valve inlet and hose ends.
4. Check the hoses for kinks or damage.
5. Reconnect hoses, open both valves fully, and test with a rinse cycle.

Professional Repair

F8E3 — Overflow condition — water exceeding maximum safe level#

Common Causes

• Water inlet valve stuck open(common) — The solenoid valve fails in the open position, allowing continuous water flow.
• Pressure switch failure(occasional) — A failed pressure switch cannot signal the board to stop filling.

Professional Repair

F9E1 — Long drain — washer cannot drain within 8 minutes#

Common Causes

• Clogged drain pump filter(common) — Coins, hair ties, and lint accumulate in the drain pump filter. In our service data, this is the cause in about 65% of F9E1 cases on Maytag washers.
• Kinked or obstructed drain hose(occasional) — The drain hose can kink behind the washer or clog with detergent buildup.
• Drain pump motor failure(rare) — The drain pump impeller can crack or the motor can burn out.

DIY Fix

1. Locate the drain pump filter access panel on the lower front.
2. Place towels and a shallow pan under the access.
3. Slowly turn the filter cap counterclockwise — water will drain out.
4. Remove all debris from the filter and pump cavity.
5. Reinstall the filter snugly.
6. Check the drain hose for kinks.
7. Run a Rinse & Spin cycle to verify.

Professional Repair

Sud — Excessive suds detected in the drum#

Common Causes

• Too much detergent(common) — Using more than 2 tablespoons of HE detergent or any regular detergent creates excessive suds.
• Non-HE detergent used(common) — Regular detergent produces far more suds than HE formulas. Maytag HE washers require HE detergent.

DIY Fix

1. Let the washer sit 20-30 minutes for suds to dissipate.
2. Run a Rinse & Spin cycle with no detergent.
3. Switch to HE detergent if not using it.
4. Use no more than 2 tablespoons per load.
5. Clean the dispenser drawer with hot water.

Professional Repair

F3E1 — Pressure switch / water level sensor failure#

Common Causes

• Pressure switch failure(common) — The pressure switch that measures water level has failed, preventing the washer from determining correct fill level.
• Pressure hose clogged or disconnected(occasional) — The thin rubber hose from the tub to the switch can clog with detergent residue or disconnect from vibration.

Professional Repair

F2E1 — User interface / stuck key on control panel#

Common Causes

• Moisture or detergent residue on keypad(common) — Detergent splashes or humidity cause keys to register as constantly pressed.
• Stuck physical button(occasional) — A button jammed due to dried detergent or warped panel.

DIY Fix

1. Unplug the washer for 1 minute.
2. Press each button firmly a few times.
3. Clean the panel with a damp cloth.
4. Plug back in and test.

Professional Repair

HC — Hot and cold water supply hoses are reversed#

Common Causes

• Hoses connected to wrong supply valves(common) — After installation, the hot hose was connected to the cold valve and vice versa.

DIY Fix

1. Turn off both water supply valves.
2. Swap the hose connections — hot to hot (left), cold to cold (right).
3. Reconnect, open valves, and check for leaks.

Professional Repair