The short answer
F4 E2 is a microwave sensing fault: the table names the Microwave Sensor/Thermistor and its wiring. That sensor is how the appliance judges what is happening in the cavity. The control stops rather than run without it, and that is the right behaviour.
Code table
Reference| code | meaning | owner-checkable |
|---|---|---|
| F4 E2 | There may be a problem with the Microwave Sensor/Thermistor, the Microwave Appliance Manager, or the associated wiring. | partly |
| F4 E0 | There may be a problem with the microwave inverter, or the associated wiring. | see page |
| F4 E3 | There may be a problem with the Microwave Exhaust Air Temperature Sensor, or the associated wiring. | see page |
What you observe
- Sensor-driven programmes refuse to run — Anything automatic depends on the reading the control has lost.
- The cycle aborts partway with the code — The control drops out when the reading goes out of range.
- Manual timed cooking may still work — Timed power does not need the sensor that automatic programmes do.
- NEAR MISS — food heats unevenly with no code — Uneven heating alone is a turntable or placement question, not this fault.
Likeliest causes first
- The connector at the Microwave Sensor/Thermistor — First: it is the cheapest item, it sits in a hot and greasy part of the appliance, and grease creep into a connector is common here.
- The Microwave Sensor/Thermistor itself — Second: thermistors drift and fail open, and the control reads that as a value it cannot use.
- The appliance manager input that reads it — Last: the board is the dearest item and the least likely, so it is proved rather than assumed.
Check in this order
- Cut power for a minute and see whether it returns — Splits a latched state from a hard fault at no cost.
- Note which programmes fail and which still run — If only automatic programmes fail, the sensing chain is confirmed as the fault.
- Clean the accessible vents and grease filters — Blocked filters change what a thermal sensor sees and are an owner job.
Owner-safe steps
- Wash or replace the grease filters underneath — A clogged filter changes airflow and heat, which is exactly what these sensors measure.
Tools: degreaserAbout 20 min
- Cut the breaker for a minute, then retry an automatic programme — Confirms whether the fault is stored or real.
About 10 min
- STOP HERE — the sensor is inside the appliance body — Reaching it means the cover off, and the high-voltage section is behind it.
Safety first
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel — a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. An oven carries a heavy element circuit behind the rear panel, and the cavity stays dangerous long after the heat is off. Leave the door lock and its switch wired exactly as they are.
When to call
Call once the code returns after a reset with the filters clean. The Microwave Sensor/Thermistor is reached with the cover off, and the microwave's high-voltage capacitor sits in the same space, which is why there is no owner-side test beyond the steps above. Ask for the sensor to be measured rather than swapped: the connector fails more often than the part.
Neighbouring codes — F4 E0 and F4 E3 sit beside F4 E2 and name overlapping hardware, so most checks here carry across. Read the two meanings side by side: where they differ in the part named, the order of the checks changes with them.
What this page does not cover
This page is written for the Maytag oven class rather than for one model line, and F4 E2 is read exactly as the shared table records it. If your family or model has its own page, that page is the more specific answer and it is linked below — go there first when your model is named. Left out deliberately: connector positions, wiring colours and part numbers, which are family-specific.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
