The short answer
On a Maytag cooktop, F25 points at the electrical supply. The exact documented wording is in the table; the order of the checks below it is the part worth reading twice. It is usable if it runs normally; switch it off at the breaker if any terminal feels warm.
The documented code and its meaning
Reference| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| F25 | There is a problem with power supply to the cooktop. |
What you actually observe
- The cooktop was working until other electrical work was done — Recent work on the panel or the circuit is the most common trigger.
- The control lights up but nothing heavy ever runs — The classic signature: the low-voltage side is fed and the load side is not.
- The breaker has tripped, or one half of a two-pole breaker has — A half-tripped double breaker does not always look tripped.
- NEAR MISS — everything runs and one function is missing — A single missing function is a component fault, not a supply one.
Causes, most likely first on this cooktop
- One leg of the supply lost at the breaker or the terminal block — Half a supply is the classic form of this fault: the panel lights up and the heavy load never runs.
- A loose or burnt terminal at the appliance connection — Heat at a slack terminal raises resistance, which makes more heat, which is why these faults worsen steadily.
- Voltage sagging under load on a shared circuit — The reading is fine at rest and out of range the instant the heating load comes on.
- A supply-frequency or waveform problem from a generator or inverter feed — Uncommon in ordinary homes, and the first thing to ask about where the supply is not from the utility.
Check in this order, and why
- Look at the breaker, including a half-tripped two-pole one — This is the entire fault surprisingly often, and looking costs nothing.
- Ask whether other heavy appliances on the same circuit misbehave — A shared symptom moves the investigation from the appliance to the house wiring.
- Note whether the panel lights while the load will not run — A lit panel with no heat is the signature of a lost supply leg.
- Have an electrician check the supply before appliance parts are bought — Replacing a board will not fix a supply problem, and this is where that money is usually wasted.
What an owner can safely check
- Switch the breaker fully off, then firmly back on — A breaker that has tripped part-way does not always look tripped, and resetting it fully is the test.
About 3 min
- See whether anything else on the circuit has also stopped — A second dead outlet takes the problem out of the appliance entirely.
Tools: a lamp or a phone chargerAbout 10 min
- Stop at the appliance terminal block — The connection behind the cover carries the full supply and is an electrician job, not an owner check.
Before anything is opened
Safety
Take the power away first: unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel, since a capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. On most installations there is no plug: the cooktop is wired in, and the breaker is the isolation point. Treat the glass as hot well after the display says the zones are off. Leave every safety switch wired as it was found. Each one interrupts power somewhere the design needs it interrupted.
When this stops being an owner job
Call once the breaker has been reset and the code is still present. Beyond that the diagnosis needs instruments rather than observation, and nothing under the glass can be reached until the unit is lifted out of its cutout. Whatever the timing above, a burning smell, visible scorching or a tripping breaker means the appliance goes off at the breaker and the call goes in today.
Nearest error-code pages
What this page does not cover
The reading of F25 given here is the one the shared Maytag cooktop code set carries, and it applies to the model lines built on that control platform. It does not cover older generations that reuse the same characters for something else, and it deliberately carries no wiring colours, no connector pin numbers, no torque figures and no part numbers, because every one of those differs by family. Where a page exists for your specific family or model, that page is the more specific answer and it is the one to follow; the code index linked below is where those pages are listed.
Other Maytag cooktop codes
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