LG Refrigerator Not Reaching Temperature: Causes

Quick Answer: Why Your LG Refrigerator Won't Reach Temperature#

Most likely: the defrost system has failed and let a sheet of frost build on the evaporator coils, which blocks airflow so the refrigerator can never pull down to target and the compressor runs continuously. Remember that LG's Linear Compressor is designed to run almost all the time at varying speed, so "always running" is only a fault when the fridge also is not getting cold. After frost, the next suspects are dirty condenser coils that stop the system rejecting heat and, less often, the Linear Compressor itself losing compression — the error codes Er dH and Er CO help tell these apart.

Likely Causes at a Glance#

Walking Through the Diagnosis#

Unplug the refrigerator before pulling any interior panels. Start where most of these end up — the evaporator. Remove the rear freezer panel (six to eight Phillips screws); a thick ice sheet over the coils confirms a defrost failure. Force a manual defrost by leaving the unit unplugged for a day (or gently melting the ice with a hair dryer on low — never high heat near the plastic), then test the parts: the defrost heater (5300JB1092A on many models) should read continuity, and the defrost thermostat (6615JB2002A) should show continuity when cold. LG's own codes point the way here, with Er dH flagging the heater circuit and Er dS the defrost sensor.

If the coils are clear of ice, look underneath. Pop the bottom grille and vacuum the condenser coils and fan blade — caked dust makes the compressor labor without ever rejecting enough heat, so cycles stretch out and never finish. Clean them every six to twelve months, or every three with pets. Only after frost and coils are ruled out should you weigh the compressor. LG's Linear Compressor carries a 10-year parts warranty (labor only in year one), but units from the 2014-2019 range do fail; a compressor that runs yet will not cool, especially with Er IF or Er CO, has likely lost compression — though the cheaper starting relay can fail on its own, so test the relay before condemning the compressor. A single compartment at the wrong temperature instead points at a stuck damper, and a scatter of unrelated faults at the main control board.

Repair or Replace? The Short Version#

A defrost part or a coil cleaning is inexpensive and clearly worth doing on an LG that otherwise runs, and even a starting relay is a modest fix. The Linear Compressor is the real decision: the part is under warranty for ten years, but the sealed-system labor is not, so price that labor against the fridge's age before committing. If the coils are clean, the evaporator is frost-free, and it still will not cool, have the compressor circuit tested — and check whether your model falls under LG's compressor settlement — before paying for a full replacement. book a repair.

Frequently Asked Questions#

My LG refrigerator compressor runs constantly — is it broken?#

Not necessarily. LG's Linear Compressor is built to run nearly continuously at variable speed, which is normal and efficient. It is only a fault when it runs flat out and the refrigerator still will not reach temperature, which usually means frost on the evaporator or dirty condenser coils.

What do the Er dH and Er dS codes mean on an LG refrigerator?#

Er dH flags an open defrost-heater circuit and Er dS a defrost-sensor fault — both sit in the defrost system that, when it fails, lets ice bury the evaporator and block airflow. Test or replace the defrost heater (5300JB1092A) or thermostat (6615JB2002A) accordingly.

Does the 10-year Linear Compressor warranty cover the repair?#

It covers the compressor part for ten years, but labor only through the first year. On sealed-system work the labor is the larger cost, so after year one you pay for it — and some models qualify for additional coverage under LG's compressor settlement.

Why does my LG run all the time but never get cold?#

The classic cause is a defrost failure icing the evaporator so air cannot circulate, followed by dirty condenser coils that stop the system shedding heat. If both are clear and it still will not cool, a Linear Compressor that has lost compression (often with Er IF or Er CO) is the next check.