The reading in two sentences
On a KitchenAid cooktop, F37 means there may be a problem with a temperature sensor on an induction coil. Use the other zones normally and leave the one this reading names alone until it has been checked. The first two checks below need no tools and no panel off; anything past them is a service call.
Error codes
Reference| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| F37 | There may be a problem with a temperature sensor on an induction coil. |
What else is happening when this shows
- One zone cuts out early or will not run at full power — The control protects a zone whose temperature it cannot read.
- The appliance heats and then shuts down early — The control acts on what the sensor says, so a false high reading ends the cycle before the work is done.
- NEAR MISS — nothing heats at all and there is no code — That is a heating circuit or supply fault, not a sensor fault, and it is a different page.
What triggers F37, most likely first
- A sensor drifted or open at one coil — It goes first because the reading names it and because the sensor lives directly under a heated glass surface, cycled hot and cold at every use.
- A sensor that has come out of position — A probe touching the wall it is meant to measure past reads the wall rather than the space, so the number is real and wrong at the same time.
- A control board that misreads the sensor circuit — Last: the board is the expensive candidate, and the four cheaper ones above have to be eliminated before it can be blamed honestly.
The order to work through
- Establish which zone the fault follows — A single zone narrows this to one coil and its sensing.
- Power the appliance down for a minute and retry — This separates a latched code from a live one before any panel comes off.
- Have the sensor resistance measured at the control connector — One measurement at one plug separates a failed sensor from a broken lead, and it needs a meter.
- Body: Take the temperature out of the picture before the parts: cold, heating and hot each produce a different version of this fault.
The reset and the checks that follow it
- Test each zone in turn from cold and write down which fail and at what point — Cold, during heat-up or at temperature: that observation decides what gets measured.
About 20 min
- Write down the rating plate details for the part match — Sensors differ across a family. The plate, not the code, is what gets the right part on the van.
About 5 min
- Cut power at the breaker for a minute and restore it — A sensor code that clears and stays clear was a momentary open, which is worth knowing before anything is ordered.
About 5 min
- STOP HERE — the sensor and its plug sit behind a panel — Reaching either means opening the appliance next to live terminals, which is service work.
Before a panel comes off
Safety
Switch the cooktop off at its circuit breaker before anything is opened; it carries a heavy load and stored charge remains after the power is off. Let the glass cool on its own. On a gas model, never switch anything on or off if you smell gas: leave and call the gas utility from outside.
Where an owner check ends
Call once the code survives a power cycle, or as soon as the results are wrong enough to matter.
Other codes on a KitchenAid cooktop
What is deliberately not here
Treat this as the general KitchenAid cooktop reading. It stops short of anything model-specific — part numbers, harness colours, connector layouts and service-mode entry — because those differ by family and a technician takes them from the rating plate rather than from a code. A family- or model-specific page, where one exists, is linked from the code index below and is the closer answer.
Links: - [KitchenAid cooktop error codes](/blog/kitchenaid-cooktop-error-codes)
Next steps
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
