Kenmore Dryer Temperature Not Right — Troubleshooting Guide

When a Kenmore dryer runs too hot on low settings or too cool on high settings, the temperature regulation system has failed. The components responsible — cycling thermostat, thermistor, and control board — vary by platform. The 110-series (Whirlpool) uses a mechanical cycling thermostat, while the 796-series (LG) uses an electronic thermistor-based system. These are fundamentally different approaches to temperature control, with different failure modes.

How Kenmore Dryer Temperature Control Works

110-Series (Whirlpool Platform) — Mechanical System

The cycling thermostat is a bimetallic disc that opens and closes based on temperature. When the air temperature reaches the thermostat's setpoint, it opens the circuit, cutting power to the heating element. When the temperature drops, the thermostat closes and the element reheats. Different heat settings (Low/Medium/High) route power through different thermostat contacts with different temperature ratings.

796-Series (LG Platform) — Electronic System

An NTC thermistor continuously reads exhaust air temperature and sends a resistance value to the main control board. The board uses this input to cycle the heater relay on and off, maintaining target temperature digitally. The temperature setting on the control panel tells the board what target to maintain.

Too Hot — Dryer Runs Hotter Than Selected Setting

Cycling Thermostat Stuck Closed (110-Series, 30% of Cases)

When the cycling thermostat fails in the closed position, it cannot break the circuit to the heating element. The element runs continuously until the high-limit thermostat (backup safety) intervenes at a much higher temperature. Clothes come out scorching hot and may show heat damage.

Parts Cost: $8–$25 (Whirlpool cycling thermostat 3387134) Professional Repair Cost: $100–$200

Thermistor Reading Low (796-Series, 25% of Cases)

If the thermistor develops a fault that causes it to report a lower temperature than actual, the control board keeps the heater running longer than necessary, overshooting the target temperature. A shift of just a few kilohms in the thermistor resistance throws off temperature regulation.

Diagnosis: Measure thermistor resistance at room temperature — it should read approximately 10K ohms at 77 degrees F. Significantly lower reading indicates a failing thermistor.

Parts Cost: $15–$30 Professional Repair Cost: $100–$180

Restricted Vent Causing Heat Buildup (All Platforms, 20% of Cases)

A partially blocked vent traps heat inside the dryer, raising temperatures above what the thermostat/thermistor expects. The temperature control system may be working correctly, but the heat cannot exit the machine. Always check vent airflow before replacing temperature components.

Too Cool — Dryer Does Not Reach Expected Temperature

Cycling Thermostat Stuck Open (110-Series, 20% of Cases)

When the cycling thermostat fails open, it breaks the circuit to the heating element permanently. The element never activates, and the dryer tumbles with ambient-temperature air. This is essentially the same as "no heat" but may present as "temperature not right" if the user does not realize the element is completely off.

Thermistor Reading High (796-Series, 15% of Cases)

A thermistor reporting higher-than-actual temperature causes the control board to cycle the heater off too early, resulting in below-target drum temperature. Clothes take longer to dry and may feel cool at the end of the cycle.

240V Half-Voltage (Electric Models, 10% of Cases)

Electric dryers require 240V. If one leg of the circuit fails (tripped single pole, loose wire at the outlet), the dryer receives 120V. The motor runs on 120V, but the heating element cannot generate sufficient heat on half voltage. The result: the dryer tumbles and produces some warmth (from the motor and residual heat) but never reaches proper drying temperature.

Temperature Control Component Cross-Reference

Diagnosis Approach

1. Check the vent first — disconnect and run a test load. If temperature normalizes, the vent is restricted.
2. Check incoming voltage (electric models) — must read 240V at the outlet.
3. Test the cycling thermostat (110-series) — should show continuity at room temperature, open at rated temperature.
4. Test the thermistor (796-series) — should read ~10K ohms at room temperature with smooth resistance change as temperature varies.
5. If all components test normal — the control board may be at fault, but this is the least common cause.

Prevention

• Annual vent cleaning prevents the #1 cause of temperature irregularity.
• Clean the lint filter before every load — a clogged filter acts like a partial vent restriction.
• Use the correct heat setting for the fabric type. Running all loads on High shortens thermostat life.

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Kenmore dryer temperature off? Our technicians test the entire temperature control system — thermostat, thermistor, wiring, and vent airflow — on every visit. Schedule a repair →