Kenmore Dryer Temperature Not Right? Causes & Fix

Too hot or too cool: what each points to#

Split the problem by direction. Running hotter than the setting means heat is not being cut off when it should be — a thermostat stuck closed, or a high-limit that has to intervene. Running cooler than expected means heat is being cut too soon or never applied — a thermostat stuck open, a drifted sensor, or a restricted vent shedding heat. Naming which way it is wrong immediately halves the list of suspects.

How Kenmore controls dryer temperature#

The control method depends on who built your machine. On 110-series Whirlpool-platform dryers the system is mechanical: a bimetallic cycling thermostat opens to cut the element when the air reaches its setpoint and closes again as it cools, with the heat setting routing power through different thermostats. On 796-series LG-platform dryers the system is electronic: a thermistor continuously reports the exhaust temperature to the board, which modulates the element. That difference decides which part you test.

Causes at a glance#

Working through the causes#

Cycling thermostat stuck closed (30%, 110-series). When the mechanical cycling thermostat fails closed, it can no longer break the circuit, so the element runs continuously until the high-limit safety intervenes at a much higher temperature. Clothes come out scorching and may show heat damage. Test the thermostat (the Whirlpool cycling thermostat is part 3387134) — it should open at its rated temperature; one that stays closed is the cause.

Thermistor drift (25%, 796-series). On LG-platform dryers the thermistor tells the board the exhaust temperature. If it drifts, the board misjudges and over- or under-heats. Measure it — a healthy exhaust thermistor (part 6323EL2001B, a roughly 10K-ohm sensor) reads about 10K ohms at room temperature and changes smoothly as it warms; a reading well off, or a jumpy one, means replace it.

Cycling thermostat stuck open (20%, 110-series). The opposite failure: a thermostat stuck open breaks the element circuit for good, so the element never heats and the drum tumbles with room-temperature air. It looks like "no heat," but shows up as "temperature not right" if you do not realize the element is fully off. Test for continuity at room temperature; an open reading condemns it.

Restricted exhaust vent (15%). A clogged vent traps heat, so the dryer overheats or, on some controls, cuts heat early and never dries. This is the first thing to rule out — disconnect the vent and run a short test load; if the temperature normalizes, the vent is the problem, not a part.

High-limit thermostat (10%). The high-limit is a backup safety (part 6931EL3004B on the LG platform) that cuts heat if the dryer overheats, usually because of a restricted vent. A tripped or failed high-limit leaves the dryer cold. Test it, replace if failed, and clear the vent restriction that tripped it.

Diagnose it#

1. Check the vent first — disconnect it and run a test load; normal temperature means a vent restriction.
2. On electric models, confirm the outlet reads 240 volts.
3. Test the cycling thermostat (110-series) — continuity at room temperature, open at its rated temperature.
4. Measure the thermistor (796-series) — about 10K ohms at room temperature with a smooth change as it heats. The Whirlpool-platform exhaust thermistor is part WP8577274.

Preventing a repeat#

• Have the vent professionally cleaned yearly — a restriction is the top cause of temperature trouble.
• Clean the lint filter before every load; a clogged screen acts like a partial vent blockage.
• Use the correct heat setting for the fabric — running everything on High shortens thermostat life.

Kenmore dryer running too hot or too cold? Our technicians diagnose thermostats and sensors same-day across Sacramento and the Bay Area. Book your repair.