Kenmore Dryer Heating Element Replacement Guide — Cost, Signs & DIY Tips

The heating element is the most commonly replaced part in Kenmore electric dryers, and the replacement procedure differs based on your OEM manufacturer. Whirlpool-built Kenmore dryers (110-prefix) use a coil-in-can heating element assembly — a nichrome wire coil inside a metal housing, located in the rear of the dryer or in a lower heater box depending on the specific model. LG-built Kenmore Elite dryers (796-prefix) use a duct heater assembly that mounts in the airflow path. Gas Kenmore dryers do not have a heating element — they use a gas burner assembly with an igniter (see the igniter guide instead).

Decode Your Model Number

• 110 — Whirlpool: Coil-in-can element assembly. Typically located in the rear lower section behind a service panel, or inside a heater box on the bottom.
• 796 — LG (Kenmore Elite): Duct heater assembly in the airflow path.
• 417 — Frigidaire: Similar coil-in-housing design.

Electric vs Gas: Check your dryer's power connection. If it uses a 240V outlet (large 3 or 4-prong plug), it is electric and has a heating element. If it connects to a gas line and uses a standard 120V outlet, it does not have a heating element.

Signs Your Kenmore Dryer Heating Element Needs Replacement

• Dryer runs but produces no heat — the drum tumbles, the blower runs, but clothes stay damp
• Dryer takes 2–3 cycles to dry a normal load — a partially broken element coil produces some heat but not enough
• Tripping the circuit breaker — a grounded element (coil touching the housing) draws excessive current
• Visible damage: If you access the element and see a broken coil (gap in the wire), sagging coils touching the housing, or discoloration/burn marks on the housing

How to test before replacing:

1. Unplug the dryer
2. Access the element (rear panel on most 110-prefix models)
3. Disconnect one wire from the element terminals
4. Test with a multimeter set to ohms: a good element reads 10–50 ohms (varies by model). Open circuit (infinite resistance) means the coil is broken. Near-zero ohms means the element is shorted to the housing.

Symptoms that mimic element failure:

• No heat but the dryer only runs for a few minutes then stops — check the thermal fuse first. A blown thermal fuse cuts the heating circuit on most Kenmore dryers. The thermal fuse is on the blower housing or exhaust duct.
• Dryer heats but not enough — check the exhaust vent. A clogged vent restricts airflow and makes it seem like the element is weak.
• On 240V electric dryers, if one leg of the 240V circuit is dead (blown breaker on one leg), the motor runs (120V) but the element cannot heat (needs both 120V legs = 240V). Check both breakers.

Heating Element Cost Breakdown

The heating element is the most commonly replaced dryer part for good reason — it is affordable, diagnosis is straightforward, and DIY replacement is very achievable.

How to Replace the Heating Element

Whirlpool-based models (110-prefix):

1. Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall
2. Remove the rear service panel (typically 4–6 screws). On some 110-prefix models, the element is in a heater box accessible from the bottom-rear.
3. Locate the element housing — a metal can or rectangular box with 2 wire terminals sticking out
4. Disconnect the wires from the terminals (pull off the spade connectors)
5. Remove the mounting screws (2–4 screws holding the housing to the dryer)
6. Pull the element housing out. On Whirlpool 110-prefix dryers, the element assembly is usually self-contained — housing and coil come out as one unit.
7. If your replacement is a coil-only kit (no housing), transfer the coil to the existing housing. If it is a complete assembly, install the whole unit.
8. Mount the new element, reconnect wires, replace the service panel
9. Plug in and test — run a timed cycle and verify heat within the first 2–3 minutes

LG-based models (796-prefix Kenmore Elite):

1. Unplug the dryer
2. Remove the top panel (rear screws, slide back)
3. Remove the front panel or rear panel depending on model to access the duct heater
4. The duct heater assembly is in the airflow path between the heating compartment and the drum
5. Disconnect wiring, remove mounting screws, slide the assembly out
6. Install the new duct heater, reconnect, reassemble

Tools required: Phillips #2, 5/16-inch nut driver, multimeter, needle-nose pliers for spade connectors. Total time: 30–60 minutes.

When to DIY vs. Call a Professional

• Whirlpool-based (110): Beginner-moderate difficulty. Rear panel access makes this one of the most accessible dryer repairs. 30–45 minutes. Highly recommended as a DIY project.
• LG-based (796): Moderate. More disassembly required. 45–60 minutes.
• Always replace the thermal fuse at the same time — if the element failed due to overheating (rather than age), the thermal fuse may have been stressed. A new thermal fuse is $5–10 insurance.
• Call a professional if: The element keeps burning out (suggests a vent blockage causing recurrent overheating — fix the root cause, not just the symptom).

How Long Does a Kenmore Dryer Heating Element Last?

• Whirlpool-built (110-prefix): 8–15 years. The nichrome coil eventually fatigues from thousands of heat/cool cycles.
• LG-built (796-prefix): 8–12 years.

The biggest lifespan killer is restricted exhaust airflow. A partially clogged vent forces the element to run hotter and longer per cycle, degrading the coil faster. Annual vent cleaning extends element life by 3–5 years.

Maintenance Tips

• Clean the exhaust vent annually — the single most impactful maintenance for heating element longevity
• Clean the lint screen before every load to maintain airflow
• Do not use the dryer without the lint screen — debris reaching the element coil can cause a fire
• If the element fails prematurely (under 5 years), investigate the root cause: check vent airflow, verify 240V is reaching the dryer, and inspect for lint buildup inside the element housing

FAQ

How much does it cost to replace a Kenmore Dryer Heating Element?

DIY: $25–$90. Professional: $125–$350. This is the most commonly replaced dryer part and an excellent DIY project.

How do I know if my Kenmore dryer heating element is bad?

Unplug the dryer, access the element, disconnect one wire, and test with a multimeter. Good element: 10–50 ohms. Open circuit: broken coil. Near-zero: shorted to housing.

My Kenmore dryer runs but has no heat — is it the element?

Check three things in order: (1) Both circuit breaker legs for a 240V dryer, (2) the thermal fuse (on the blower housing), (3) the heating element. The thermal fuse is the most common cause of no-heat and costs under $10.

Why does my Kenmore dryer heating element keep burning out?

Recurrent element failure almost always means restricted exhaust airflow. Clean the vent duct from the dryer to the outside wall. Also check for crushed or kinked duct behind the dryer.

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