Frigidaire Washer Error Codes: Complete Guide with Fixes

Frigidaire washing machines — manufactured under the Electrolux Group umbrella — use the Electrolux E-series error code format to communicate problems. Whether you have a Frigidaire Affinity front-loader, a standard FFFS or FFTW series top-loader, or a newer Gallery model, the error codes follow the same diagnostic logic. This guide covers every Frigidaire washer error code with real part numbers, step-by-step troubleshooting, and clear guidance on when DIY ends and professional help begins.

How Frigidaire Washer Error Codes Work

Frigidaire washers display error codes in the E## format (E10, E20, E40, etc.) on the LED or LCD control panel. On Affinity models, the code appears as a scrolling two-character display. On newer Gallery models with full LCD panels, the code appears alongside a brief description.

The control board monitors sensors throughout the wash cycle — water level, drain performance, door lock status, motor speed, and temperature. When a reading falls outside tolerance for a defined timeout, the board halts the cycle and displays the corresponding code.

Quick reset procedure:

1. Press Cancel/Pause to stop the current cycle.
2. Unplug the washer from the wall outlet for 60 seconds.
3. Plug back in and select a Rinse & Spin cycle as a test.

If the error returns, use the detailed fix below for your specific code.

E10 — Water Fill Problem

The washer is not filling with water or not detecting adequate water level at the start of the cycle. This is the most common Frigidaire washer startup fault.

Common causes:

• Water supply valves not fully open (check both hot and cold behind the washer)
• Inlet hose kinked or crushed against the wall
• Inlet valve screen filters clogged with sediment (very common in Bay Area homes with older plumbing)
• Water inlet valve solenoid failure
• Household water pressure below 20 PSI

How to fix:

1. Check supply valves: Both hot and cold supply valves behind the washer must be fully open — turn counterclockwise until they stop.
2. Clean inlet screens: Turn off water supply, disconnect both inlet hoses from the back of the washer. Inside each hose connection, you will find a small mesh screen. Remove carefully with needle-nose pliers and rinse under running water. Reinstall and reconnect.
3. Check water pressure: Open a nearby faucet fully. If flow is weak, the issue is household water pressure. Frigidaire washers require 20–120 PSI.
4. Test the inlet valve: If screens are clean and pressure is adequate, test the inlet valve solenoid with a multimeter. Each solenoid should read 800–1500 ohms. No reading means a failed solenoid.

Parts: Water inlet valve 137353500 ($45–$80). Inlet hose screens 5304515673 4-pack ($8–$12).

Frigidaire-specific note: On Affinity models with the ReadyClean feature, E10 may appear if only the premix solenoid fails while the main fill solenoid works. The machine starts filling slowly, then times out. Test each solenoid independently.

E11 — Fill Timeout

Similar to E10, but specifically means the washer started filling and did not reach the target water level within the allotted time. The machine began receiving water but not enough of it.

Common causes:

• Low water pressure (water flows but too slowly)
• Partially failed inlet valve (weak solenoid opening partially)
• Pressure switch hose kinked or contains trapped water
• Flow meter blockage (on equipped models)

How to fix:

1. Run water at the nearest faucet to verify pressure is adequate.
2. Test each inlet valve solenoid independently — should read 800–1500 ohms. A solenoid that reads within range but opens weakly is common on older Affinity models.
3. Inspect the pressure switch hose (small-diameter rubber tube from the tub to the pressure switch on the control board housing) for kinks or water trapped inside. Blow gently through the tube to verify it is clear.
4. If your model has a flow meter (check the parts diagram for 137501800), inspect it for mineral buildup.

Parts: Water inlet valve 137353500 ($45–$80). Pressure switch 137015300 ($25–$45). Flow meter 137501800 ($20–$35).

E13 — Tub Leak Detected

The washer has detected water in the base pan, indicating a leak somewhere in the tub, hose, or seal system. This is a serious code — continued operation risks motor and control board damage.

Common causes:

• Main tub seal (bearing seal) failure — the most expensive repair and common on Frigidaire front-loaders after 5–7 years
• Tub-to-pump hose connection leak
• Door boot gasket (door seal) torn or displaced
• Cracked outer tub (rare but possible from foreign objects)

How to fix:

1. Stop immediately: Unplug the washer and turn off water supply valves.
2. Remove the lower front panel and inspect the base pan for water accumulation.
3. Look for rust trails or calcium deposit lines — these indicate the leak source and direction.
4. Check the door boot gasket by running your hand around the entire perimeter. Any tears, cuts, or displaced sections will leak during the wash cycle.
5. If water is coming from the rear of the tub, the main bearing seal has likely failed. You will often also hear a grinding noise during spin cycles.

Parts: Tub seal and bearing kit 137547700 ($85–$150). Door boot gasket 137005000 ($60–$100). Drain hose assembly 137221600 ($20–$35).

Warning: A leaking main bearing seal on a Frigidaire front-loader requires complete tub disassembly — this is a major repair that typically costs $350–$600 professionally. If the bearings are also damaged (grinding noise during spin), budget for both the seal and bearing kit.

E20 — Drain Problem

The washer cannot drain water within the allotted time. Water remains in the tub after the wash cycle, and the machine cannot advance to the spin cycle.

Common causes:

• Clogged drain pump filter (coins, hair ties, lint — the #1 cause)
• Kinked drain hose
• Drain pump blockage or failure
• Standpipe blockage in household plumbing
• Drain hose inserted too far into standpipe (should be no more than 8 inches)

How to fix:

1. Clean the pump filter: Open the lower access panel at the front of the washer. Place towels and a shallow pan underneath. Slowly turn the filter cap counterclockwise — water will drain out. Remove the filter completely and clear all debris from both the filter and the pump cavity behind it.
2. Check the drain hose: The drain hose should connect to a standpipe or laundry tub at a height of 24–96 inches. Verify no kinks. Disconnect the end and check for internal blockage.
3. Test the drain pump: With the washer unplugged, access the pump from behind the lower panel. The impeller should spin freely by hand. If jammed or the motor does not activate during a drain cycle, replace the pump.

Parts: Drain pump assembly 137240800 ($50–$85). Pump filter cap 137370300 ($10–$18).

Maintenance tip: Frigidaire front-loaders with steam features accumulate more lint in the pump filter than non-steam models. Clean the filter monthly to prevent E20 errors.

E21 — Slow Drain

The washer is draining but too slowly. Unlike E20 (total blockage), E21 means water eventually exits but exceeds the drain timeout. Cycles run abnormally long.

Common causes:

• Partially clogged filter (lint blocking some but not all flow)
• Partially kinked drain hose
• Worn pump impeller (moves water slowly due to erosion)
• Internal buildup in drain hose from detergent residue

How to fix:

1. Clean the pump filter thoroughly — even a partial lint mat reduces drain flow significantly.
2. Check the drain hose for any partial kinks or internal detergent buildup. Disconnect and flush with hot water.
3. Measure the drain pump motor resistance: should be 5–20 ohms. If within range but the pump sounds strained (labored hum), the impeller bearings are worn.
4. Listen to the pump during drain — a healthy pump produces a smooth whir. Grinding or laboring indicates a failing pump.

Parts: Drain pump assembly 137240800 ($50–$85). Pump filter 137370300 ($10–$18).

E40 — Door Not Closed

The control board cannot detect the door latch engagement. The washer will not start any cycle.

Common causes:

• Door not physically closed all the way
• Clothing caught between the door boot gasket and the tub rim
• Door strike or latch misaligned
• Detergent residue preventing clean latch engagement

How to fix:

1. Push the door firmly until you hear a definitive click from the latch mechanism.
2. Open the door and inspect the boot gasket opening for clothing, debris, or foreign objects trapped in the folds.
3. Clean the door strike and latch area with a damp cloth to remove detergent residue buildup.
4. If the door closes and clicks but E40 persists, the latch microswitch has failed — the mechanical latch works but the electrical confirmation signal does not reach the board.

Parts: Door latch assembly 134550800 ($35–$55).

E41 — Door Lock Mechanism Failure

The door closes but the electronic lock mechanism fails to engage. The washer detects the door is closed (no E40) but cannot confirm the lock is activated.

Common causes:

• Door lock solenoid or PTC element failure
• Lock mechanism worn or stripped
• Wiring harness damage between the lock and control board
• Control board not sending the lock signal

How to fix:

1. Listen for the lock engagement sound when you press Start. A clicking followed by a brief pause and another click indicates the lock is attempting to engage but failing.
2. Test the door lock solenoid — should read 800–1500 ohms. On Frigidaire models (unlike Electrolux-branded units), the lock uses a solenoid rather than a wax motor.
3. Inspect the wiring harness from the door lock to the main control board for damage, especially where it flexes through the door hinge area.
4. If the solenoid tests good and wiring is intact, the control board may not be sending the lock command.

Parts: Door lock assembly (Frigidaire variant) 134550800 ($35–$55). Main control board 134743500 ($120–$200).

Important: Frigidaire uses a solenoid-type lock while Electrolux-branded models use a wax-motor lock. Check your model prefix — FFL, FFFS, FAFS = Frigidaire solenoid; EFL, EFLS = Electrolux wax motor. Ordering the wrong type is a common mistake.

E50 — Motor Failure

The drive motor has failed or is drawing abnormal current. This is a major fault that typically requires professional repair.

Common causes:

• Motor winding failure (shorted or open windings)
• Motor control (inverter) board failure
• Motor bearings seized
• High-current connector at the motor burned or corroded

How to fix:

1. Check motor winding resistance — each phase should read 2–8 ohms. Significant deviation indicates winding failure.
2. Inspect the motor control (inverter) board for visibly burned components, swollen capacitors, or darkened solder joints.
3. Try spinning the drum by hand with the washer off and unplugged. It should rotate freely with minimal resistance. Grinding or seizing indicates motor bearing failure.
4. Check the motor connector for burned or discolored pins — these high-current connections can arc and fail.

Parts: Drive motor 137326000 ($150–$250). Motor control (inverter) board 134743500 ($120–$200).

Warning: If a burning smell accompanies E50, unplug the washer immediately. Motor winding failure can cause overheating that risks electrical short or fire. Do not attempt further cycles.

E52 — Motor Signal Error

The control board commands the motor to spin but receives no feedback signal from the motor position sensor (tachometer). The motor may start then stop abruptly, or spin erratically.

Common causes:

• Motor tachometer/hall sensor failure (the small sensor coil mounted on the back of the motor rotor)
• Wiring issue between the tachometer and the inverter board
• Inverter board unable to read the position signal

How to fix:

1. Locate the motor position sensor on the back of the motor (behind the rear panel). It is a small coil or hall-effect sensor.
2. Measure tachometer resistance — typically 100–300 ohms. No reading means a failed sensor.
3. Inspect the wiring between the sensor and the inverter board for damage.
4. If the tachometer tests good and wiring is intact, the inverter board signal reading circuit has failed.

Parts: Motor tachometer/sensor 134372600 ($15–$30). Motor control board 134743500 ($120–$200).

Pro tip: The tachometer is a small, inexpensive part behind the motor rotor. If E52 appears but the motor spins freely by hand and windings test good, replace the tachometer first — it solves E52 about 70% of the time.

E70 — Water Temperature Error

The washer detects that the water temperature is not reaching the expected level within the heating timeout.

Common causes:

• Hot water supply not connected or turned off
• Water heater set too low (below 120 degrees F)
• Heating element failure (on models with internal heaters)
• Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor) fault

How to fix:

1. Verify the hot water supply hose is connected to the hot valve (usually the left connection on the back of the washer).
2. Run hot water at a nearby faucet for 2 minutes before starting a wash cycle to prime the hot water line.
3. Check your home water heater setting — should be 120 degrees F minimum.
4. On models with internal heaters, test the heating element resistance: should read 10–30 ohms.
5. Test the NTC thermistor: approximately 50K ohms at room temperature, decreasing as temperature rises.

Parts: Heating element 137460900 ($40–$70). NTC thermistor 137067700 ($15–$25).

Additional Frigidaire Washer Error Codes

• E90 — Communication error between the UI board and main control board. Power cycle first. If persistent, check the ribbon cable connection between boards.
• E91 — Same as E90 but indicates a specific communication protocol failure. Usually requires board replacement.
• EH0 — Voltage supply error. Check the outlet voltage with a multimeter — should be 110–120V AC. Extension cords or shared circuits can cause voltage drop under load.

Frigidaire Washer Diagnostic Mode

Access the built-in diagnostic mode for systematic testing:

1. Affinity models: Turn the cycle selector knob to the start position. Press and hold the Start and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. The display enters test mode.
2. Gallery/newer models: Press and hold Options and Cancel for 3 seconds, then press Start to begin the test sequence.
3. Test sequence: The washer cycles through fill, agitate, drain, and spin tests. Watch for the point where the error code reappears to identify the failing phase.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I reset my Frigidaire washer after an error code? A: Press Cancel/Pause, unplug the washer for 60 seconds, plug back in, and run a Rinse & Spin test cycle. For persistent codes, the error will return until the underlying issue is fixed. Clearing the code alone does not repair the fault.

Q: What is the difference between E10 and E11 on my Frigidaire washer? A: E10 means no water is entering the machine at all — check supply valves and inlet screens first. E11 means water started filling but did not reach the target level in time — suspect low water pressure or a partially failed inlet valve solenoid.

Q: Why does my Frigidaire Affinity washer keep showing E20? A: Recurring E20 after cleaning the pump filter usually indicates either a blockage further down the drain hose, a failing drain pump motor, or the drain hose is inserted too far into the standpipe (max 8 inches). Try disconnecting the drain hose and draining into a bucket as a test — if it drains fine into the bucket but not the standpipe, the house plumbing is blocked.

Q: Are Frigidaire and Electrolux washer error codes the same? A: Yes — Frigidaire washers use the same Electrolux E-series error code platform (E10, E20, E40, etc.) because they share the same manufacturing and control board architecture. Parts are cross-compatible. The main difference is the door lock type: Frigidaire uses solenoid locks while Electrolux uses wax-motor locks.

Q: Can I use a Frigidaire washer with only cold water connected? A: Yes, the washer will operate on cold water only, but you may occasionally see E70 on cycles that expect hot water (like Sanitize or Hot Wash). The machine will still complete cold-water cycles normally.

When to Call a Professional

These Frigidaire washer issues typically require professional repair:

• E50 with burning smell — Motor winding failure. Unplug immediately and do not attempt further operation.
• E13 with grinding noise — Indicates tub bearing failure combined with seal leak. Requires full tub disassembly and is the most labor-intensive washer repair.
• Persistent E41 after lock replacement — May indicate a control board fault that requires board-level diagnosis.
• E90/E91 communication errors — Board replacement and potential firmware configuration.
• Any electrical sparking or tripped breaker — Indicates a short circuit. Do not attempt DIY repair.

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