Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer Error Codes: Complete Guide with Fixes

Fisher & Paykel's DishDrawer is one of the most innovative dishwasher designs ever made — two independent drawers that each function as a complete dishwasher. You can run one drawer while loading the other, wash different cycles simultaneously, or use a single drawer for small loads. This unique design also means a unique set of error codes and troubleshooting approaches.

This guide covers all Fisher & Paykel dishwasher error codes including the DishDrawer (DD24, DD36 double, DD18 single) and the traditional Series models.

How Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer Error Codes Work

Each DishDrawer has its own independent control module, motor, pump, and sensors. On double-drawer models, each drawer can display its own separate error code — they are truly independent dishwashers stacked vertically. Error codes appear as flashing LED patterns or alphanumeric codes on the display, depending on the model generation.

The drawer design introduces unique failure modes not seen in traditional dishwashers: drawer alignment, drawer seal contact, and the slide mechanism all affect operation.

Basic reset procedure:

1. Open the affected drawer fully.
2. Press and hold the Power button for 10 seconds.
3. Close the drawer.
4. Wait 30 seconds, then try starting a cycle.
5. If the error persists, disconnect power at the breaker for 5 minutes.

E1 — Water Fill Error

The dishwasher cannot fill with water within the programmed time limit.

Common causes:

• Water supply valve closed or partially open
• Kinked or crushed supply hose (common during installation or kitchen renovations)
• Clogged inlet filter/screen
• Inlet valve solenoid failure
• Low household water pressure (below 14 PSI)
• Flood switch tripped from previous leak (locks out water fill)

How to fix:

1. Check supply valve: Locate the water shutoff (usually under the kitchen sink or behind the dishwasher). Verify fully open.
2. Clean inlet screen: Turn off water supply. Disconnect the supply hose at the dishwasher end. Remove the small mesh screen from the valve port. Clean mineral deposits — soak in vinegar if heavily scaled.
3. Check for previous flood lockout: DishDrawers have a leak detection float in the base. If it has tripped from a previous small leak, it locks out the water fill. Tip the unit slightly and listen for water sloshing in the base pan — if present, dry the pan and reset the float.
4. Test inlet valve: During fill, the valve should click open. No click = solenoid failure. Click but no flow = valve plunger seized.
5. Verify water pressure: F&P requires minimum 14 PSI. If other fixtures have good pressure but the dishwasher does not, the supply hose or valve is restricted.

Part cost: Inlet valve $50–$90. Inlet screen $10–$15. Supply hose $20–$35. Professional repair $150–$280 total.

DishDrawer specific: When installed, the supply hose routes through a tight space between drawers and cabinet. This hose frequently gets kinked during installation or when the unit is pushed back after maintenance. Always verify hose routing after any service work.

E2 — Drain Error

The dishwasher cannot drain water within the allotted time. Water remains in the sump after the drain phase.

Common causes:

• Drain hose kinked or blocked
• Drain pump impeller jammed (glass shards, food debris, bones)
• Drain pump motor failure
• Drain hose connected too high (no air gap or high loop)
• Garbage disposal knockout plug not removed (new installations)

How to fix:

1. Check for standing water: Open the drawer and look in the bottom. If water is present, this confirms the drain is not working. Remove large debris visible in the sump filter area.
2. Clean the filter assembly: DishDrawers have a multi-stage filter system. Remove the filter assembly (twist-lock or screw mount depending on model), clean all parts under running water. Check the sump area below the filter for broken glass or bone fragments.
3. Check drain pump impeller: With the filter removed, look down into the drain pump cavity. You may see the impeller. Verify it rotates freely — reach in with a finger (power OFF) and try to spin it. Jammed = foreign object.
4. Verify drain hose routing: The drain hose must have a high loop (minimum 20 inches above floor) or connect through an air gap. Without this, dirty water from the sink can back-siphon into the dishwasher. Also check the hose is not kinked.
5. Garbage disposal: If the dishwasher drains to a garbage disposal, verify the knockout plug inside the disposal port was removed during installation. A remarkably common oversight.

Part cost: Drain pump $60–$100. Filter assembly $30–$50. Professional repair $150–$280 total.

E3 — Heating Error

The water is not reaching the target temperature within the allowed time. Dishes may not be properly sanitized.

Common causes:

• Heating element failure (most common in units 5+ years old)
• NTC temperature sensor fault
• Heating relay failure on control board
• Low incoming water temperature (cold water supply connected instead of hot)
• Element scaled over (hard water insulation effect)

How to fix:

1. Verify hot water supply: F&P dishwashers (and most dishwashers) should be connected to hot water supply, not cold. Run the kitchen sink hot tap until hot water arrives, then start the dishwasher — this ensures hot water fills the unit immediately.
2. Test heating element: Access the element through the bottom of the drawer unit. Measure resistance — should be 15–30 ohms. Infinite = open circuit (burned out). Check for earth leakage (element to ground).
3. Test NTC sensor: Should read approximately 50,000 ohms (50k) at room temperature for F&P dishwasher sensors. Test at the board connector.
4. Check for scale: In hard water areas, the element can become coated with mineral scale that reduces heat transfer efficiency. The element may test OK with a multimeter but cannot transfer heat fast enough through the scale layer.

Part cost: Heating element $60–$100. NTC sensor $30–$50. Professional repair $180–$320 total.

E4 — Overflow / Flood Detection

Water has been detected in the base pan or the water level in the wash tub exceeds the safe maximum.

Common causes:

• Internal leak (hose clamp loose, seal failed)
• Inlet valve stuck open (continuous fill)
• Door/drawer seal leaking
• Sump seal failure
• Float switch stuck in "triggered" position

How to fix:

1. Cut water immediately: If E4 appears, turn off the water supply valve. The machine will attempt to drain, but if the inlet valve is stuck open, water continues flowing in.
2. Check base pan: Carefully pull the unit out (disconnect power first). Look at the base pan — if water is present, find the source. Common leak points: hose clamp connections, sump-to-pump joint, door seal.
3. Inspect door/drawer seal: The DishDrawer seal is critical — the drawer slides in and out, creating wear on the seal over time. Look for tears, deformation, or debris in the seal channel preventing proper contact.
4. Reset float switch: If the base is dry but E4 persists, the float switch may be stuck. Locate the float (a small buoyant device in the base pan) and verify it moves freely. Clean any debris holding it up.
5. Test inlet valve: Unplug power and check if water continues flowing. If yes, the inlet valve is stuck open — replace immediately.

Part cost: Door/drawer seal $50–$90. Inlet valve $50–$90. Sump seal $30–$50. Float switch $20–$35. Professional repair $180–$350 total.

DishDrawer specific: The drawer slide mechanism creates additional potential leak paths. Water can escape along the drawer rail if the seal is not perfectly mated. After any service or reinstallation, run a test cycle and check for drips along the drawer rails.

E5 — Motor / Wash Pump Error

The wash pump motor is not operating or is drawing abnormal current. No water circulation during the wash cycle.

Common causes:

• Wash pump motor failure
• Pump impeller jammed (broken glass, food debris)
• Motor capacitor failure (hums but does not start)
• Pump seal leak causing motor damage
• Control board motor output failure

How to fix:

1. Listen during wash cycle: Start a cycle — you should hear the wash pump engage within the first minute. No sound = motor failure. Humming without water spray = jammed impeller or failed capacitor.
2. Clear impeller: Remove the lower spray arm and filter assembly. Look down into the pump area. Check for glass shards, bones, seeds, or other debris blocking the impeller.
3. Check for pump seal leak: If water has leaked from the pump seal onto the motor, the motor windings may be damaged. Look for water dripping from the pump-to-motor joint.
4. Test motor: Disconnect and measure winding resistance. Should be 3–15 ohms for wash pump motors. Also test insulation resistance (windings to ground) — should be over 1 megaohm.

Part cost: Wash pump motor $80–$150. Pump seal $20–$40. Impeller $30–$50. Professional repair $200–$380 total.

E6 — Rinse Aid / Dispenser Error

The detergent or rinse aid dispenser mechanism is not functioning correctly.

Common causes:

• Dispenser actuator motor failure
• Dispenser mechanism jammed (crystallized detergent)
• Wax motor (thermal actuator) failure
• Wiring fault to dispenser

How to fix:

1. Clean dispenser thoroughly: Old detergent crystallizes in the dispenser mechanism, jamming it. Remove any visible residue. Run warm water over the dispenser area. Use a toothbrush to clean detergent buildup from the latch and seal.
2. Test actuator: During the cycle, the dispenser should open at the appropriate phase. If it does not open mechanically, the actuator (wax motor or solenoid, depending on model) may have failed.
3. Manual operation: Some models allow manual dispenser opening with a button or lever. If manual open works but automatic does not, the issue is the actuator or board timing.

Part cost: Dispenser assembly $40–$80. Actuator motor $30–$50. Professional repair $120–$230 total.

Workaround: If E6 persists while awaiting repair, place a dishwasher detergent pod directly in the bottom of the drawer before starting the cycle. It dissolves during the wash phase — not ideal timing, but effective for cleaning.

E7 — Sensor Error (General)

One or more sensors are reading out of range. The specific sensor varies by when the error occurs in the cycle.

Common causes:

• Turbidity sensor failure (water clarity sensor)
• Temperature sensor fault
• Water level sensor issue
• Sensor wiring damage

How to fix:

1. Identify which sensor: Note when in the cycle E7 appears. During fill = water level sensor. During wash = turbidity sensor. During heating = temperature sensor.
2. Turbidity sensor: This optical sensor measures water clarity to determine if more washing is needed. Located in the sump. Clean the sensor lens — grease film causes inaccurate readings.
3. Water level sensor: Similar to washer pressure sensor — check the air hose connection.
4. Temperature sensor: Test NTC resistance as described in E3 section.

Part cost: Turbidity sensor $40–$70. NTC sensor $30–$50. Professional repair $150–$280 total.

EC — Communication Error

Communication failure between the drawer control module and the main interface/display.

Common causes:

• Drawer not fully closed/seated (contact pins not aligned)
• Connector pins dirty or corroded
• Ribbon cable fault
• Control module failure

How to fix:

1. Reseat the drawer: Open the drawer fully and close firmly. The electrical connection between the drawer module and the chassis is made through contact pins that align when the drawer is closed. Debris or misalignment breaks communication.
2. Clean contact pins: Locate the electrical contact points (where the drawer meets the chassis at the rear). Clean pins with electrical contact cleaner or rubbing alcohol.
3. Check for moisture: If steam has caused corrosion on the contact pins, clean and apply a thin layer of dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
4. Test with drawer manipulation: If EC appears intermittently, try gently pressing the drawer closed while observing the display. If the error clears with pressure, the contact pins are worn or the drawer alignment has shifted.

Part cost: Contact pin assembly $30–$50. Control module $120–$200. Professional repair $180–$350 total.

DishDrawer specific: The drawer-to-chassis electrical connection is unique to the DishDrawer design. Unlike traditional dishwashers with permanent wiring, DishDrawers must make and break electrical contact every time the drawer opens and closes. This connection point is the most common source of intermittent electrical issues.

Additional Codes Quick Reference

• E8 — Solenoid valve error. Check diverter valve between spray arms.
• E9 — EEPROM/memory error. Power cycle; persistent = board replacement.
• F1 — Flood switch activated (same as E4 on some models).
• U1 — Water supply issue (same as E1 on some models).
• dF — Demo/display mode. Press and hold combo to exit.

DishDrawer Diagnostic Mode

1. Single drawer test: With the drawer open, press and hold the appropriate button combination (typically Lock + key icon) for 5 seconds. The drawer enters test mode, cycling through fill, wash, heat, drain, and dry individually.
2. Error history: In diagnostic mode, the display shows the last 5 stored error codes with a counter for how many times each occurred.
3. Component test: Individual components (valve, pump, heater, dispenser) can be activated one at a time for isolated testing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I reset my Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer after an error code? A: Open the drawer, press and hold Power for 10 seconds, close the drawer, wait 30 seconds. For persistent errors, disconnect at the breaker for 5 minutes. Each drawer resets independently — both drawers need to be reset if both show errors.

Q: Why does only one drawer show an error while the other works fine? A: Each DishDrawer is an independent dishwasher with its own control board, pump, heater, and sensors. An error in one drawer has no effect on the other. The failing drawer can be serviced while the other continues normal operation.

Q: My DishDrawer shows EC when I close it hard. Is this normal? A: No — this indicates the electrical contact pins between the drawer and chassis are not making reliable connection. Clean the contact points with electrical contact cleaner. If the problem persists, the drawer alignment may have shifted or the contact pins are worn and need replacement.

Q: How often should I clean the DishDrawer filter? A: Rinse the filter under running water weekly for regular use. Deep clean (remove all filter stages and scrub) monthly. A clogged filter causes E2 drain errors and reduces cleaning performance.

Q: Can I replace just one drawer on a double DishDrawer? A: Individual drawer modules can sometimes be replaced independently, but availability of matching units (same generation, same finish) can be limited. Consult a F&P specialist before ordering — mismatched drawers may have communication issues.

When to Call a Professional

• E4 with active leak — Water damage risk. Turn off supply and call immediately.
• E5 with pump seal failure — Motor may need replacement if water reached windings.
• EC persistent after cleaning contacts — Drawer alignment or control module issue.
• E3 with element earth leakage — Electrical safety issue requiring immediate repair.
• Both drawers showing errors simultaneously — May indicate power supply issue or shared component failure.
• E1 with flood switch tripped — Need to find and fix the original leak source.

Fisher & Paykel DishDrawers are unique, innovative appliances that provide 10–15 years of service. Most repairs are specific to the drawer format but straightforward for technicians familiar with the design.

Fisher & Paykel DishDrawer showing an error code? EasyBear's technicians are experienced with the unique DishDrawer design and carry common F&P parts. We offer free diagnostic visits — our tech tests both drawers, identifies the root cause, and completes the repair on-site. Every repair backed by our 90-day warranty. Schedule your free diagnosis today.