The short answer
A door that leaks heat is a flattened felt seal or a catch that no longer pulls the door square, and on a compact machine it noticeably lengthens drying. A door that will not start the machine is the switch behind the catch, and that is an internal repair.
What you observe
- Warm air escaping around the door while it runs — The felt seal or the door alignment.
- The door pops open during a cycle — A worn catch or striker.
- The machine starts only if the door is pressed — The switch is marginal.
- Clothes scuffed or marked at one point — A displaced seal catching the load.
- The closet or room gets warm and humid — Heat leaving at the door instead of down the duct.
- Not this fault: long drying with a well-sealed door — That is the drying-performance page.
Ranked for compact machines
- Felt drum seal flattened or torn — First, and it leaks air and marks clothes together.
- Door catch or striker worn — Second, and it explains both popping open and switch faults.
- Door switch worn or misaligned — Third, and the reason a closed door does not start the machine.
- Hinge loose after being closed with a knee or hip — Fourth, and common in tight installations.
- Lint packed around the seal — Fifth, and it holds the door open a fraction.
- Door panel distorted — Last, and rare.
Check it in this order
- Run your hand around the door edge during a cycle — Escaping heat shows where the seal has failed.
- Watch the catch meet the striker as the door closes — Misalignment is visible.
- Press the door firmly and try to start — It separates a seal fault from a switch fault.
- Clean lint from the seal area and retry — The cheapest possible fix.
Owner checks
- Vacuum lint from the door edge, the seal and the filter housing — Packed lint holds a door open and blocks airflow at once.
Tools: vacuum, soft brushAbout 15 min
- Inspect the felt seal for flattened or missing sections — A tired seal leaks constantly.
Tools: torchAbout 10 min
- Close the door firmly and confirm the machine starts — A difference tells you the switch is marginal.
About 5 min
- Check the hinge screws are tight — Doors closed with a hip loosen their hinges.
Tools: screwdriverAbout 15 min
- Time a load before and after clearing lint from the seal — It shows what the leak was costing.
About 60 min
- Stop before replacing the seal, catch or switch — Those need the drum front off, among mains wiring and lint.
Doors and switches
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never hold, tape or pack a dryer door closed to make it run: the switch stops the drum when the door opens, and defeating it is dangerous with a heat source inside. Let the drum cool before reaching in.
When to call
Call when a properly closed door does not start the machine, because the switch is internal, and when the felt seal has flattened or torn, because fitting one means dismantling the drum front. On a compact machine both repairs pay for themselves quickly in drying time, but ask for the labour cost up front because access on these machines is tight.
Other pages for this dryer
What this page leaves out
Generalized across dryer families under this badge rather than for one model line; where a family-specific or model-specific page exists it is the narrower answer. Not here: seal and catch part numbers, switch identifiers and drum removal procedures.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
