The short answer
A dryer door that leaks heat is usually a flattened felt seal or a latch that no longer pulls the door in square, and it shows up as longer drying times. A door that will not start the machine is the door switch, which is a different and internal repair.
What you observe
- The door pops open mid-cycle — The catch or striker is worn.
- Warm air escaping around the door edge — The felt seal is flattened or torn.
- The laundry room heats up during a cycle — The same leak, seen from the room.
- The machine will not start although the door is shut — The door switch is not being pressed.
- Scuff marks on clothes at the door edge — The seal has moved and the load is catching.
- Not this fault: long drying with a well-sealed door — That is the drying-performance page.
Ranked for this class of dryer
- Door catch or striker worn — First, and it explains both popping open and switch problems.
- Felt drum seal flattened or torn — Second, and it leaks air and scuffs fabric at once.
- Door switch worn or misaligned — Third, and the usual reason a closed door does not start the machine.
- Hinge loose so the door no longer sits square — Fourth, and it makes the catch miss.
- Lint packed around the seal area — Fifth, and it holds the door open a fraction.
- Door panel distorted after heavy use — Last, and rare.
Check it in this order
- Close the door and watch where the catch meets the striker — Misalignment is visible.
- Run a hand round the door edge during a cycle — Escaping heat tells you where the seal has failed.
- Press the door firmly closed and try to start the machine — If it starts, the catch is not pressing the switch properly.
- Clean out lint around the seal and retry — The cheapest fix and a common one.
Owner checks
- Clean lint from the door edge, the seal and the filter housing — Packed lint holds a door open and blocks airflow at the same time.
Tools: vacuum, soft brushAbout 15 min
- Inspect the felt seal all the way round for flat or missing sections — A flattened seal leaks constantly and scuffs clothes.
Tools: torchAbout 10 min
- Close the door firmly and check the machine starts — It separates a seal fault from a switch fault.
About 5 min
- Check the hinge screws are present and snug — A dropped door misses its catch.
Tools: screwdriverAbout 15 min
- Time a load before and after cleaning the seal area — It quantifies what the leak was costing.
About 60 min
- Stop before replacing the switch, catch or drum seal — Those need the cabinet open, where mains wiring and lint both live.
Before working on the door
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off. Never hold, tape or pack the door closed to make a dryer run: the switch exists so the drum stops when the door opens. Let the drum cool before reaching inside, and keep lint away from the heat source at all times.
When to call
Call when the door will not start the machine despite being properly closed, because the switch is inside the cabinet. Call as well for a felt seal that has flattened or torn, since fitting one means removing the drum front on most machines. Both repairs pay for themselves in drying time, and a leaking door also puts heat and humidity into the room it should be leaving.
Other pages for this dryer
What this page leaves out
Generalized across dryer families under this badge rather than for one model line; where a family-specific or model-specific page exists it is the narrower answer. Not here: seal and catch part numbers, switch identifiers, drum removal procedures and the door arrangements that differ between side-swing and drop-down designs.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
