The answer before the explanation
On CRASD models the puddle usually forms at the front, below the door, while the actual fault sits at the back of the freezer compartment. The floor of that compartment slopes to a small drain port, and when the port ices over the water travels forward under the liner instead.
Symptoms on this family
- Dripping heard behind the rear freezer panel after the compressor stops — Normal in small amounts at the end of a defrost; a fault when it continues for many minutes or runs down the back wall.
- Water appearing only after the ice maker fills — The timing ties the leak to the supply side rather than to the defrost cycle, and that is the single most useful observation you can make.
- A wet patch behind the cabinet rather than in front of it — That is the fill line, the shut-off or the pan itself, and it means the floor at the front stays dry while the wall behind stays damp.
- Frost on the food in the top drawer and water below it — Air is moving through a gap that should be sealed, condensing on the food and running down.
- A pool of clear water at the front of the base, below the door — It reappears within a day of being mopped up and is at cabinet temperature rather than warm.
The ranking that applies to this platform
- Ice-maker fill tube icing at the mouth — The tube runs through the door channel on this platform, and a slow fill leaves a bead that freezes, so the next fill sprays rather than pours.
- Water supply fitting weeping at the shut-off — Second on cabinets that have been moved. A compression fitting that has been flexed once will weep, and the drip runs along the floor to the front where it is finally noticed.
- Base drain pan cracked or shifted off its seat — Common after a slide-out on an uneven floor: the pan rides the levelling foot, tips, and empties its contents toward the front of the machine compartment.
- Door seal failing so warm air condenses on the liner — Not a leak at all but it reads as one. Humid air on cold plastic makes water where none was plumbed, and the cure is a seal rather than a drain.
Check in this order, and why
- Time the puddle against the ice maker — Switch the ice maker off for a day. If the floor stays dry, you have moved the fault to the supply side without opening anything.
- Watch a full defrost cycle end with a torch in the freezer — The slowest check and the most conclusive: you see where the meltwater actually goes instead of inferring it.
- Look at the back of the freezer floor for a rim of ice around the drain port — One look separates the commonest cause from every other one, and it costs nothing but emptying a drawer.
- Run a sheet of paper around the door seal — Where it slides out with no drag, the seal is not sealing, and that is the leak that is not a leak.
What to do before you start
Safety
Kill the power before servicing. Two hazards sit close together in these cabinets: mains at the compressor terminals and a sealed refrigerant loop that must never be opened by anyone without the ticket to do it.
Models in the CRASD family
Reference| Model number | Family key |
|---|---|
| CRASD5001 | bougerv:refrigerator:crasd |
| CRASD5001W | bougerv:refrigerator:crasd |
When to stop and book a visit
Get a technician the moment the food in the cabinet is at risk and the checks have not moved the fault. Every hour of a warm cabinet costs groceries, and a fault that survived the obvious tests is rarely the cheap one.
Related faults on these models
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
