The short answer
On a Black+Decker washer, a hum with no movement is mechanical, and turning the drum by hand tells you which kind in seconds. The hand test is free and safe with the machine unplugged; everything it reveals is service work.
What you actually see
- It fills but never agitates or tumbles — Filling proves the supply and the control; the fault is downstream.
- It starts only when the lid is pressed down — A start that depends on lid pressure convicts the lid switch.
- It beeps and refuses — A beep with no cycle means the control heard you and something else refused.
Causes, ranked for this washer
- Motor, belt or control board failed — Most likely — it is last because everything above it is free to check, and because a board or motor bought for a worn lid switch is the most expensive wrong answer available. A clean result here does not just remove one part; it removes everything that depends on it.
- Lid or door not closing its switch — Common — it produces a total refusal on a machine that is otherwise healthy, which makes it the highest-value free check here. It is worth being sure about this one rather than half-sure, since everything after it assumes a verdict.
- No power at the outlet — Regular — it is first because it is free to test and because a switched socket, a tripped device or a dead extension lead explain a large share of these. This is the entry most often blamed correctly and diagnosed carelessly, so take the extra minute.
What to check, in order
- First — nothing — this is the remainder — Unplug the machine and turn the drum by hand. A drum that will not move, or one that spins with no resistance at all, points at the mechanical side.
- Second — the lid catch and switch — Close the lid and listen for a definite click, then press it down and try again. A start under pressure convicts the switch.
Checks an owner can do safely
- Step 1. Check the breaker and any protection device — Look at the panel and any protection device on the circuit and reset once. A device that trips again is reporting a real fault.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
- Step 2. Clear any lock or delay — Hold each button for several seconds in turn, cancel any programme, and set a short cycle explicitly.
Tools: noneAbout 10 min
- Step 3. Turn the drum by hand — With the machine unplugged, turn the drum. A drum that will not move, or one with no resistance at all, points at the mechanical side.
Tools: noneAbout 5 min
Before you open anything
Safety
Unplug the appliance or switch off its breaker before removing any panel. A capacitor can hold a charge after the power is off, so treat a stored charge as live even when the cord is in your hand. Do not run the machine with a panel off to watch what happens, and do not defeat any switch that cuts power when a door opens.
When this becomes a service call
Where the owner side ends is easy to state. Anything that trips a breaker on start ends the diagnosis. Leave it unplugged and have both the circuit and the machine checked.
Sources
General guidance- The Control of Hazardous Energy (Lockout/Tagout) — OSHA 1910.147 and manufacturer service manuals, fetched
- Article 210 — Branch Circuits — NFPA 70 (National Electrical Code), fetched
Nearest pages
What this page does not cover
This page is written for Black+Decker washers in general. It does not cover a specific family, a specific model number or a control board revision, and where a family or model page exists it will be more precise than this one — start here to understand the fault, then follow the more specific page for the part numbers and the board layout. The nearest pages of that kind are linked under Related pages.
Lead Appliance Repair Technician · 12 years experience
Experienced technician with 12 years specializing in washing machine and dryer repairs across all major brands.
